I’ve featured Greek wines here over several Septembers, in part because, as summer wanes into autumn, their sense of bottled sunshine has strong appeal. This time last year I was also inspired by a new specialist importer bringing an excellent range into the Irish market — and I look forward to featuring more wines from Oinos Wines here over the coming months. For today’s round-up, I was prompted by another importer, Cassidy Wines, introducing several new Greek wines to their portfolio. It was also a good excuse to highlight that there are still bottles of Aldi’s excellent-value Assyrtiko on the shelves (while stocks last).
Along with aromatic Malagousia, Assyrtiko has become one of Greece’s leading varieties, helping to prove the potential of modern Greek wines. The best Assyrtiko comes from the steep volcanic slopes of Santorini, where a mixture of basalt, ash, sand and pumice bring a distinctive minerality and intensity to the wine.
Splash out on Gaia’s supple, complex and racy Wild Ferment Assyrtiko (O’Briens Wine, €38.95) to see what I mean. However, a combination of high demand, high production costs (steep slopes are tricky to tend) and high land prices in an island beloved by tourists means that Santorini expressions don’t come cheap.
Gaia’s refreshing Monograph Assyrtiko (O’Briens Wine, currently €15.95; from €18.95) shows that the high-altitude region of Nemea on the large peninsula of Peloponnese can also produce appealingly crisp Assyrtiko. Meanwhile, Aldi’s Assyrtiko, from the far north of Greece in Macedonia, offers real bang for your buck and a great introduction to this charming varietal style.
I’ve featured four more wines today from Macedonia, which between them make a strong case for the versatile styles offered by Greece’s indigenous grape varieties. Malagousia features in a perfumed and textural single-varietal, single-vineyard white wine as Wine of the Week, and again in a herbaceous blend with Assyrtiko. Macedonia excels at red wines, and today’s two showcase contrasting styles for autumn’s fickle weather.
Wine of the week
Alpha Estate Single Vineyard Turtles Malagouzia
Alpha Estate Single Vineyard Turtles Malagouzia 2023 Florina (Macedonia), Greece, 13pc, €25.99
From a single vineyard at 670m high where local turtles nest, this charming single-varietal expression of Malagousia offers subtle aromas of nutty apricot kernel, white tea, wild blossom and heady eastern spice. The textured palate is balanced by a tightly wound acidity that starts lively and bright with lovely lemon tart tang and finishes crisp with pink grapefruit pith. A gastronomic wine to pair with roast birds and shellfish, or mezze-style dishes. Barnhill Stores, Dalkey; Kelly’s, Clontarf; theallotment.ie
Athlon Assyrtiko
Athlon Assyrtiko 2023 Macedonia, Greece, 12pc, €9.99
This medium-bodied Assyrtiko with a touch of Chardonnay balances weight and freshness, marrying white peach flesh and kernel aromas, ginger spice on the fleshy, soft-edged palate, finishing with crisp citrus peel and some green apple zing. Think grilled calamari, herby lamb or cheese-based dishes. It’s a limited-edition offer, so snap it up while you can. Aldi
Manolesakis Estate ‘Exis’ White
Manolesakis Estate ‘Exis’ White 2023 Drama (Macedonia), Greece, 12.5pc, €22.99
This Malagousia-Assyrtiko blend sets out its stall with big, bold aromas of wild brush that conjure warm evenings on Macedonian hills. All those herbal notes of sage and bay and its pink grapefruit zest would appeal to fans of herbaceous Sauvignon Blanc and Verdejo. Barnhill Stores, Dalkey; Kelly’s, Clontarf; theallotment.ie
Manolesakis Estate ‘Exis’ Red
Manolesakis Estate ‘Exis’ Red 2023 Drama (Macedonia), Greece, 12.5pc, €22.99
A blend of fresh Moschomavro and aromatic Limnio, this light and juicy red gives crunchy red and blue fruit (think cranberries, bilberries and mulberries) with herbal complexity, light silky tannins and a mouthwatering finish that could handle tomato-based fish or fattier lamb. Barnhill Stores, Dalkey; Kelly’s, Clontarf; theallotment.ie
Alpha Estate ‘Axia’
Alpha Estate ‘Axia’ 2021 Florina (Macedonia), Greece, 14.5pc, €25.99
Greece’s beloved Xinomavro (‘black-sour’) meets fleshy Syrah for a big and broody yet elegant red with black olive, black tea and aged-leather aromas layering over ripe black fruits, drinking rich and spicy with earthy tannins and a dry finish; think bold pairings with beef or aubergine dishes. Barnhill Stores, Dalkey; Kelly’s, Clontarf; theallotment.ie