Amanda Hesser first wrote about this “blunt and tasty” egg dish, which dates back to 1909, in The New York Times Magazine. A simple dish with robust flavors, the recipe blends scrambled eggs with finely minced Virginia ham and anchovies. Before cooking, you rub the pan with a garlic clove, which scents the eggs without overwhelming them. If you’re eating this for breakfast, as originally intended, serve it with toast points and butter. But if you’re having it in the evening as a small first course — a perfectly acceptable choice — it should be accompanied with glasses of chilled fino sherry.

Ingredients

  • 1 garlic clove, peeled
  • 2 tablespoons butter
  • 8 eggs, cracked into a bowl
  • 1 tablespoon finely minced anchovy
  • 3 tablespoons finely minced Virginia ham, or other smoked ham

    Serves 4

    Preparation

    1. Rub the inside of a large skillet with the garlic clove. Place over medium-high heat and add the butter. When it’s nice and foamy, pour in the eggs. Sprinkle the anchovy and ham over the eggs, then begin scrambling them, stopping when they’re done to your liking.

    About 15 minutes

    Dining and Cooking