Where to Eat Pizza in Marseille: There’s a local saying: “Those who don’t know Etienne, don’t know Marseille.” When considering where to eat in Marseille, pizza might not be the obvious answer, but the dish is legendary here, thanks to the waves of Neapolitan immigrants who brought their city’s most famous creation with them. This iconic pizzeria in the heart of the Le Panier quarter was founded as a worker’s canteen in 1943 and transformed by the legendary Etienne Cassaro. Today, his son, Pascal, carries the torch, serving what he insists is not Sicilian but true pizza marseillais. The pies, often ordered moitié-moitié (half-and-half anchovy and cheese), emerge perfectly blistered from a wood-fired oven. Just as famous are the supions, fresh squid sizzled with garlic and parsley in a cast-iron pan. The convivial, stone-arched dining room is always packed with regulars, politicians, and a long-standing staff who serve each plate with a dose of warm, Marseillais sass. Remember: no reservations, and no credit cards.
Dining and Cooking