Yucatecan fare differs from other Mexican food. It is a cuisine rooted in the cooking of the native Maya people, crossed with that of the many conquerors who passed through. The ingredients there are rather particular; among them is achiote, also called annatto, a hard seed that imparts a delicious musky flavor and bright color to many marinades.

Achiote is at its best in the company of garlic and hot chiles, along with an assortment of pungent spices, ground to a paste. The thick red sauce is diluted with the juice of sour oranges and tiny limes. The Yucatecan custom is to coat fish with the spice mixture and wrap it in banana leaves with pickled onions before cooking. Fish prepared this way is always wonderfully moist, and the banana leaves, aside from making the ideal parcel for grilling or pit roasting, add a subtle aroma and taste.

Ingredients

  • 1 medium red onion, thinly sliced
  • Salt and pepper
  • 1 serrano pepper, sliced or chopped
  • ½ cup orange juice
  • ¼ cup lime juice, more as needed
  • 2 teaspoons achiote (annatto) powder, available in Latino and Indian markets
  • Pinch of cinnamon
  • ½ teaspoon dried Mexican oregano
  • ¼ teaspoon chipotle chile
  • ½ teaspoon cumin seed
  • ½ teaspoon cloves
  • 6 allspice berries
  • 4 garlic cloves, smashed to a paste
  • 1 ¾ pound grouper or sea bass fillet, skin on
  • 2 ripe tomatoes, sliced thick
  • Banana leaves, available in Latino and Asian markets, or use parchment or foil

    6 servings

    Preparation

    1. Make the pickled onions: Put onion in a bowl and season generously with salt and pepper. Add serrano, 3 tablespoons orange juice and 2 tablespoons lime juice, then mix well. Set aside for at least 15 minutes. Combine and reserve remaining citrus juice for marinade.
    2. Make the marinade: Put achiote, cinnamon, oregano and chipotle in a small stainless steel or glass bowl. In a small dry skillet over medium heat, lightly toast cumin, cloves and allspice until fragrant, 1 minute or less. Grind toasted spices to a powder in a spice mill or mortar, then add to other spices. Add garlic, 1 large pinch salt and remaining citrus juice and stir to make a paste. If very thick, add more lime juice. (Note: achiote may stain surfaces or clothing.)
    3. Season fish on both sides with salt and pepper. Using a sharp knife, score skin at thickest parts, if desired. Paint fish on both sides with marinade. Squeeze a little lime juice over fish. Chill for 45 minutes (or up to 2 hours).
    4. Bring fish to room temperature and heat oven to 425 degrees. Cut banana leaves crosswise into footlong lengths and soften by passing them briefly over a stovetop burner. Rinse leaves and pat dry. Lay a double thickness of leaves on a baking sheet and lay fish on it, skin-side down. Top fish with a large handful of pickled onions. Arrange tomato wedges over onions. Sprinkle with salt and a little more lime juice. Lay more leaves on top, then wrap like a package, tying with string or strips of leaf. Bake for 25 minutes, then remove and let package rest, unopened, for 15 minutes. Serve with remaining pickled onions.

    Dining and Cooking