Fruit compotes make great compromise desserts; they’re sweet, but not as sweet as sorbets, and like sorbets they don’t require flour, butter or pastry skills. I didn’t develop any kind of knack for pastry until I began collaborating with pastry chefs on their cookbooks, but for years I managed to round out my dinner parties with fruit-based desserts(though the children of my friend Clifford Wright used to roll their eyes when I brought dessert – “She doesn’t bring dessert, she brings fruit,” they’d say).

I revisited some of those desserts this week, particularly various fruits poached in wine, and I still find them delightful. I find that I’m sometimes negligent about eating fruit in the colder months, but not when I have some wine-poached pears, bananas or prunes in the refrigerator. I am as likely to stir the fruit, with its luscious syrup, into my morning yogurt as to eat it for dessert, andthe compotes are good keepers.

Early spring is an in-between time for fruit. Stone fruits aren’t ready yet and it’s not really apple, pear or citrus season either, though all of those fall-winter fruits are still available. I poached pears in red wine and bananas in white wine, and used dried fruits for two of my compotes, prunes poached in red wine and a dried-fruit compote to which I also added a fresh apple and pear. For the last compote of the week I combined blood oranges and pink grapefruit in arefreshing citrus-caramel syrup, and topped the fruit with pomegranate seeds. Even if my friend’s kids wouldn’t agree, this was definitely dessert.

Bananas Poached in Vanilla-Scented Chardonnay

Summary:Don’t overcook the bananas in this easy dish, and you’ll be rewarded with a fragrant, delicious dessert.

I am usually not one forbananas in desserts, but this, if you’re careful not to overcook the bananas, is heavenly. Years ago, in the early days of my career as a vegetarian caterer, I made it often; it was one of my most requested desserts. These days I’m as likely to spoon some of the bananas with their fragrant syrup into a bowl of morning yogurt as I am to serve it after a meal.

Ingredients

  • 2 cups chardonnay
  • 1 vanilla bean, split in half lengthwise
  • cup mild honey, such as clover
  • 1 cinnamon stick
  • ½ cup golden raisins or currants
  • ½ cup dried apples (optional)
  • Juice of 1 lemon
  • 3 to 4 firm but ripe bananas
  • ½ teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
  • ¼ cup lightly toasted slivered almonds
  • Plain yogurt or whipped cream for topping, if desired
  • Nutritional Information
    • Nutritional analysis per serving (6 servings)

      250 calories; 2 grams fat; 0 grams saturated fat; 0 grams trans fat; 1 gram monounsaturated fat; 0 grams polyunsaturated fat; 44 grams carbohydrates; 3 grams dietary fiber; 32 grams sugars; 2 grams protein; 7 milligrams sodium

    • Note: Nutrient information is not available for all ingredients. Amount is based on available data.

Serves 6 to 8

Preparation

  1. Pour chardonnay into a medium saucepan. Using the tip of a paring knife, scrape seeds from vanilla bean halves into wine and add pods. Add honey, cinnamon stick, raisins or currants, and dried apples and bring to a boil. Reduce heat, cover and simmer 5 minutes.
  2. Meanwhile, fill a bowl with water and add lemon juice. Peel bananas; cut them in half lengthwise and then in 2-inch pieces, and immediately place in the acidulated water. (This prevents bananas from discoloring.)
  3. Drain bananas and add to simmering wine. Add nutmeg. Returnmixture to a simmer, cover and simmer 5 more minutes. Remove from heat. Add almonds. Remove cinnamon stick and if you wish, add a little more nutmeg. Serve warm, topped with whipped cream or plain yogurt if desired.

Dining and Cooking