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Smashed Cucumbers With Cumin Tahini

Cool, watery cucumbers and warm, rich sesame oil are a classic combination in Asia, and the chef Danny Bowien builds on that tradition here by using sesame paste and smashed cucumbers, which have even more crunch and juice than sliced ones. The lime, oregano and cumin in the dressing can lean either Middle Eastern or Mexican, but in any case they are a perfect pairing for cucumbers. Mr. Bowien adds a pinch of sugar to the strainer; it does wonders for transforming the color and taste of the cucumber peels, which can be bitter. He serves this dish with a funky, fiery drizzle of chorizo oil with dried shrimp and XO sauce, but a little chile paste and vinegar is a fine accent, too.

Ingredients

For the salad:

  • About 2 pounds thin-skinned cucumbers like English or Persian (8 to 10 mini cucumbers, 4 medium-size or 2 large greenhouse)
  • Kosher salt
  • Raw or granulated sugar
  • Freshly squeezed juice of 1 lime or lemon
  • 1 large clove garlic
  • ⅓ cup well-stirred tahini
  • 1 tablespoon olive oil, more for cucumbers
  • ¼ teaspoon ground cumin
  • ¼ teaspoon dried oregano
  • 2 tablespoons white sesame seeds, for garnish

For the chile vinegar (optional):

  • 2 to 3 tablespoons sambal oelek or sriracha
  • White vinegar
  • Nutritional Information
    • Nutritional analysis per serving (4 servings)

      190 calories; 14 grams fat; 2 grams saturated fat; 6 grams monounsaturated fat; 5 grams polyunsaturated fat; 15 grams carbohydrates; 3 grams dietary fiber; 4 grams sugars; 5 grams protein; 536 milligrams sodium

      • Note: Nutrient information is not available for all ingredients. Amount is based on available data.

4 to 6 servings

Preparation

  1. Rinse cucumbers and pat dry. Cut crosswise into pieces about 4 inches long. Cut each piece in half lengthwise.
  2. On a work surface, place a piece of cucumber (or several) cut side down. Lay the blade of a large knife flat on top the cucumber and smash down lightly with your other hand. The skin will begin to crack, the flesh will break down and the seeds will separate. Repeat until the whole piece is smashed. Break or slice diagonally into bite-size pieces, leaving the seeds behind.
  3. Place the cucumber pieces in a strainer and toss with a big pinch of salt and a big pinch of sugar. Place a plastic bag filled with ice on top of the cucumbers to serve as a weight and place the strainer over a bowl. Let drain 15 to 30 minutes on the counter, or in the refrigerator until ready to serve, up to 4 hours.
  4. Make the dressing: In a blender or small food processor, combine lime juice and garlic and blend. Add tahini and 2 tablespoons warm water and blend. Check the texture; you want a smooth, creamy liquid. If necessary, add more warm water and blend again. Add olive oil, 1/2 teaspoon salt, the cumin and the oregano, rubbing the dried leaves between your fingers to release the flavors. Taste for salt and adjust the seasonings.
  5. Make the chile vinegar, if desired: Place sambal in a bowl and slowly drizzle in white vinegar, stirring to loosen. Taste often and stop adding vinegar when mixture is tart and spicy, but not enough to make your eyes water.
  6. When ready to serve, shake cucumbers well to drain off any remaining liquid and transfer to a bowl. Drizzle lightly with olive oil and toss. Add half the dressing, toss and taste. Keep adding dressing until cucumbers are well coated but not drowned.
  7. Serve immediately. For each serving, scoop a large spoonful of cucumbers into a bowl, spoon a little chile vinegar around the edges and sprinkle with sesame seeds.

45 minutes

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