Siamo tornati a mangiare al D’O, il ristorante di DAVIDE OLDANI, 2 stelle Michelin ⭐⭐

A quattro anni di distanza siamo tornati a mangiare da Davide Oldani al D’O a Cornaredo, che nel mentre ha visto raddoppiare la stella.
Il risotto si conferma essere uno dei cavalli di battaglia dello chef, assieme alla cipolla caramellata che al tempo avevamo assaggiato nella variante con la melanzana.
Per noi continua ad essere un posto assolutamente unico, non solo per la proposta in carta ma per l’attenzione ai dettagli a 360°, dal tavolo, alla seduta, alle posate, ai tempi di servizio tra una portata e l’altra, alla scelta di non portare subito il pane in tavola.

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– quali sono i nostri libri di cucina preferiti 📚
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#davideoldani #ristorantistellati #guidamichelin

Gentlemen, good morning from the splendid and cheerful Cornaredo. So on our YouTube channel there are a few videos that need, let’s say, a refresh, it’s been a while, we were here 4 years ago and in the meantime the stars have gone from one to two and a half because there is also the green star you decided that the green star is worth "half" I decided that it is worth half it was way back in 2019 I could tell you "go and watch that video again" but why not make a new one directly all this premise is a sinister excuse to try Davide Oldani’s cuisine again at D’O let’s go maybe not, maybe I have to ring Ah here, right, you see? Good morning Not like me in the Fisar exam – where I was like… – failed? No no fortunately promoted but when I was like… there was applause from the whole room Bellavista rosè vintage 2018 pinot noir and chardonnay here instead our small production champagne from this French maison called Jean Baptist Martin all three champagne blends majority black berry therefore pinot noire and mounier there is a continuity between the floor of the restaurant and that of the town square as the sensation of eating directly outdoors seems to be in the town square it seems like a book but it is a tablet we opted for the "molteplicità" menu which is the chef’s most complete freehand menu therefore surprise regarding the dishes that will arrive we would need to open a parenthesis for a moment on the objects that you find in the room starting from the table and then talking about the chairs, the cutlery, the glasses some niceties like this mat to place the camera on, here it was all done directly by them, designed by the chef I don’t know if they still have the fork – spoon – knife all together maybe later it will arrive under the chair I have my shelf for the technical backpack gentlemen let’s go with the welcome from the kitchen we start with this crouton which resembles a ceasar salad toasted bread with cheese flavor a chicken mousse an emulsion of anchovies and raw salad leaves then we have these tartlets made with different toasted seeds in the wooden asparagus inside a cream of green asparagus and grated mullet bottarga then we have the cube which recalls a typical Japanese preparation called takoyaki, reviewed by us they put octopus inside, in this pancake we instead put frog legs frayed and on top there is this slightly bittersweet tamarind emulsion and lastly the candle, it is an Italian bread and oil revised by us in the sense that the candle is made with an extra virgin olive oil from Puglia and beeswax with scent of oregano the soft bread in front of you made with a slightly smoked Apulian burnt wheat flour, sprayed with apple cider vinegar and salt flakes the candle, remove the wick and then a piece of advice: take a spoonful of this oil put it on the bread and eat it together I go for Caesar Salad it is wonderful we follow the order slavishly I don’t know if you have noticed how beautiful the containers are, the stands everything that has arrived on the table that is not food and as a second course me further value and beauty to the food itself what an explosion of freshness the asparagus the cubic takoyaki This is a takoyaki filled with frogs with a drop of tamarind the fake candle, look at this stuff look at the consistency of the oil it’s basically a jelly both at the sight and in the mouth obviously it almost has the consistency of melted wax I know the comment will come why is there no tablecloth? with such a beautiful table, with these objects But what do you do with the tablecloth? You will say: better are the arranged tables covered with a flannel de gustibus the second part of the welcome is a salad of cold spaghetti, bronze die "alla milanisa", tradition has it that this Sicilian lady who moved here to Milan then brought spaghetti to Sicily. So it actually resembles pasta with sardines but it is cooked with saffron and therefore the pasta will have this thinly sliced ​​fennel, it will have toasted panko bread there is an anchovy emulsion there is amberjack marinated in salt and edible gold leaf just to clarify compared to those who will write it is cooked you can drain it we are still in the field of amuse bouche I am not the dishes again, in my opinion the part that makes it more pleasant is the fact that it is cold Ah, this is the spoonful of the caramelized onion Guys, how beautiful they are. One of our flagship dishes , our caramelized onion, is about to arrive as a first course. let’s go play with 100% home on the plate and in the glass I’m about to serve you this vermouth created by us, it starts from Grechetto grapes, we are in Umbria and has botanicals of dog rose and linden I leave you with Davide Oldani’s signature with his caramelized onion which for your menu it is served in a rather particular dish. A dish called "actions" precisely because it leads you to repeat an action copied somewhat from the Asian world where they like to bring the plate closer to their face and eat, you too will have to get closer with the plate to your face and go and eat the ingredients of his signature which are Grana Padano foam and ice cream, 27 month reserve, caramelized onion, the crumble on the other hand is a crumbled pastry And with this tool… Indeed perhaps the most correct side is this it seems like I’m comfortable but I’m not really comfortable but it’s fun I take a little of each Here you have four different consistencies, you have the crunchy crumble, the soft onion the ice cream, obviously you also have, in addition to the textures, also the temperatures different, it’s really delicious , we’ve been waiting to eat the caramelized onion for 4 years, what a delicious thing. Last time we tasted the version with aubergine and I was a little disappointed at not having tasted the original dish , it’s very good, it’s sweet, it’s tasty you are eating it as if it were a dessert… yes! this is a craft brewery, it’s called Flea, it’s a Golden ale we needed a drink with important herbaceous notes because we’re really about vegetables, from pesto, there will be other vegetable components Here we have white asparagus from Bassano lightly roasted, glazed with a pesto mayonnaise on top there are these spring puff pastries with a roasted potato the crunchy Goffredo beetroot, the courgette, the radish the last disc is a fine black truffle preserved with a little butter emulsion of green asparagus and raw green asparagus I advise you to start with the potato and leave the truffle for last, you have to start from the potato towards the truffle in such a way as not to kill the tastes. I always try to taste it first but it’s like a kamikaze because then in Giano it always gets better , it’s beautiful, I realize now that this way every bite has a different flavor and this herb pesto… wow! it makes it super delicious, very tasty, there is no bread to make slipper I’m going from memory: I remember that in 2019 the bread arrived halfway through lunch, if I’m not mistaken, not immediately, to prevent you from getting gorged immediately at the start of lunch. Let’s see if it will happen the same thing the passpartout is a spoon – fork – knife designed by the chef to be able to better enjoy the experience of the dish which has not yet arrived but which will be explained to us shortly I believe the current Dom Perignon vintage which is 2013, the last one immediately gives great pleasure and we are going to combine it with a dish that clearly comes from the sea this is the Atlantic scallop, a carpaccio, it is served with this emulsion of sea urchins and the dots that are on the edge, one is of burnt fennel the another is a yuzu emulsion, there is marinda, Sicilian, spring tomato the powder is a pimon d’Espelette powder which is a slightly spicy chilli pepper from the south of France and borage flowers. So this time I’ll go Scallop, tomato, smoked fennel Super soft scallop but above all it goes well with the given acidic part from the sauce I realize guys that you are tired of hearing us say that acidity is what makes you salivate and makes you want to go on but it is the secret behind most dishes of good dishes, regardless of fine dining or no – you stole my comment – did you mean to say it? – yes I’m getting the kids onto the plate basically the scallop is cut into very thin slices The secret is the acidity, the slight spiciness and the sweetness of the scallop let’s go to Burgundy with a chardonnay This is a small producer recently imported into Italy, few bottles produced, it shows them on the label they are 3264 the producer is called Jean Fery, 2022 vintage we will accompany the next two dishes with this wine These are our orecchiette served in this saucepan on your left, they are served with a fish soup basically and a diced of vegetables on the plate instead you have seafood a diced of central cuttlefish, mussels, clams and razor clams the most beautiful and playful thing about this dish is that you could taste the seafood directly like this but I prefer to do as was suggested to me and then we give it a stir, the sauce that accompanies the orecchiette is very good and is what binds all the elements, again here you have a play of consistencies because you have these vegetable cubes which are very crunchy and which go well together with the callosity of the orecchiette and the softness of the seafood it is the perfect version of the orecchiette that your Apulian grandmother who is already a boss could cook for you , but in my opinion here we reach the next level to make everyone love me with my Englishisms you will say: sure but my Apulian grandmother prepares a tray for me. Ok you win, should I ask the chef if he can bring us a tray? – It would be an excellent idea – I’ll do it, the cubes on the plate weren’t just vegetables but they were also fish, I owed you so much, let’s go with our green rice and creaming, parmesan butter and peas , pea puree, peas which you can also find shelled on top and pea shoots and the snails, Cherasco method snails flavored with a small addition of some slices of lard. The risotto that the chef served us last time was one of the best risottos I have ever eaten. The question is: will this risotto be able to beat the previous? This is one of the classic places where if they offer you risotto with snails you say "yes thanks" How wonderful guys, creamy, crunchy, al dente, fresh, fat because of the lard, with a strong acidity as good as the other one once and with the passpartout let’s go and taste the risotto. How much is Davide Oldani a risotto leader? I don’t know how he does it but this risotto has a creaminess that really manages to give it that note that I struggle to describe to you but while you’re there swallowing the bite you can’t wait to taste the next one, the chef, the the protagonist here is not the snails and the vegetable part This is precisely the risotto made as God commands that makes you move Joseph Drouhin is a great producer, he has some flagships we are in the Cote de chalon, therefore Under the Cote D’Or and Rully is a denomination that exists both as a white and as a red. The vintage is 2021, therefore great freshness, pleasant drinking, not very aggressive tannins so that it can be paired with a fish dish. Here we have the red mullet, puffed red mullet because there is this part crunchy very light, airy, tapioca on top which is a South American flour served with Belgian endive in giardiniera the bottom is a mullet base with a reduction of Barbaresco on the toothpick, on the plate, there is ox marrow, beef marrow lightly roasted, based on a historic French recipe la rou la moal, we served our hand-rolled breadsticks with oil and salt, starting from the marrow which is pulverized in your mouth, the Tapioca gives a crunchiness that you can already feel on the cutlery, in my kitchen I like Oldani because I don’t want to be wrong But in my opinion it is based precisely on balance because each dish has a balance of consistencies of flavors if you have hot you also have cold If you have crunchy you also have soft Obviously then all the dishes are also greedy ee pleasant to eat But where is it written that fish doesn’t go with red wine? I find interesting the fatty morsel that serves to prepare your mouth, a dish that is certainly not banal. Sileo is a product made with pure Sangiovese. We are just north of Montalcino, a town called Murlo, few bottles produced and it is a Sangiovese aged in amphora. there remains a little bit of wildness from the Sangiovese, this note is a little bit wild which we will also find a little bit in the dish next course pigeon Mièral, French here we only have the breast which is cooked in this crust of egg tagliolini inside the pigeon there is this mushroom and offal stuffing then the pigeon is glazed with this creamy morel sauce and we have the pigeon breast fillet marinated in salt and sugar raw shelled broad beans, trumpet courgette in giardiniera lightly grilled separately we have these cherries reproduced with a foie pâté gras inside the cherry there is the toasted hazelnut which is a bit reminiscent of the stone of the cherry that you can eat and on top of the dark chocolate stem a little of the tagliolini crust and the sprouts we served our puffed bread glazed with an acacia honey the other bread is the typical Milanese Lombard michetta but cooked like a pretzel how wonderful… there are mushrooms and offal in the middle, as if it were a very tender, delicious strip, the part of mushrooms and offal gives it personality this knife has a serrated part on this side but also cuts on this side the pigeon is very tender, this accompanying sauce completes it perfectly the bread took a long time but does not disappoint, it is very greasy and only if you are a pro like me you can boast of the fact that you are going to erase any trace from the plate, in fact this pigeon has never been served, why can’t I do it? the puffed bread, the foie gras cherry, and I make a creation that is good with the crunchy and sweet stone, it is perfect, as you have seen, the pigeon leg was missing, we propose it in an unusual way, a typical preparation of North Africa, Moroccan it is called fingers of Fatima, it is a rolled phyllo pastry where inside we find the frayed pigeon leg, a little spices, a little mint, black lemon powder on top and as we have been told "even with your hands if you want "Who am I not to listen to you guys? I can tell you that it has very sweet and spicy notes. It’s a delicious morsel and you don’t even need to know that it’s pigeon. First of all, I appreciate the temperature, very hot and the spiciness, very good only because I’m your friend. Gianni I would like to point out that you have not yet tasted these incredible breadsticks which I have munched freely on several occasions while you were not sitting at the table. But what are they? guys I was spectacularly distracted but this thing here is incredible I’ll take you to Japan near Hiroshima the thing that characterizes this sake in particular is not so much the polishing normally the more you use only the heart the more you usually increase the quality of the sake which you will then go to do in this case what characterizes sake so much is the type of starting rice which is black rice and gives a very good sake in combination with cheese where there is something cocoa, chocolate… Here we have the playful version of the cheese trolley "Find the real one" says the mouse because among these three pieces only one is the real cheese, the real cheese. What do you think it could be? the one in the middle, the central one we have an old-fashioned stracchino from Val Brembana aged for 60 days and the crust on the outside can be eaten so everything is edible on the left instead in the shape of Emmenthal it is a slightly sweet roasted pineapple mousse and on the right in the shape of parmesan is a soft steamed bread, lightly roasted and soaked in parmesan broth and then we served some cocoa and sugar breadsticks. Let’s start with this one which actually seems to all intents and purposes to be a real cheese, it is actually a pineapple mousse let’s try the second one which looks like a seasoned Parmigiano Reggiano instead of bread take a piece of mousse, a piece of bread and a piece of real cheese We conclude with the dessert based on carrots different cooking methods, different consistencies, all made with the carrots we have a ricotta mousse, a crunchy cocoa wafer, some pecans and this sauce is an almond milk with dill I really like carrots this almond milk is almost pudding dessert worth 10 in the end the game is always that: different consistencies, different temperatures different flavours, this is truly the emblem of the cuisine we tried today carrot and almond a crazy dessert If you still have a little space and would like to add another dessert this is one of our leavened products, it’s a pandò made with four different chocolates served with vanilla ice cream Who are we to say no what you need at the end of this journey Here we are in Suvereto, in front of the Island of Elba Petra winery, it’s called l ‘angelo di San Lorenzo is a little known wine in Italy in my opinion, but made with a sort of Solera it has the complexities of a Pedro Jimenez, so you feel the coffee, the caramel at the same time after the initial sweetness there is a nice freshness, there is a nice little pastry acidity to finish: here we have some scabs which are made a bit like the shape of those spaghetti which is the Pulcinella, this work by Vanni Cuoghi which is this artist of ours who makes us carnival masks here there is Pulcinella with the flute, he makes these spaghetti rise, inspired by that they made scabs with a raspberry powder to remember the tomato then we have a pasticciotto instead filled with ricotta and cherry here we are in Bordeaux instead, cocoa-based canelés and with a very light touch of rum and to close in the lamp created by Artemide and designed by Davide Oldani the little game is precisely in bringing out our surprise tiramisu Here it is, voilà it’s a meringue based on coffee and cocoa scab, pasticciotto, caneles and finally the magical cocoa meringue ah how many cookbooks this here is the whole part of our Research and Development Here is everything we think, do, design the table, why 80 cm? For me, digestion must begin when you are sitting, not when you get up after 3 hours. If you are more upright, you are still straighter, that is, a heresy, eating standing up would be ideal because the most important thing for us is to make you feel good. There is a whole mix of stuff between Kartell, Artemide, Lavazza this one is called IDish, Identification Documents here is our imprint which… do the service so you leave your imprint but at least you leave it here which is not shiny with the Ecup we made the Espoon so as not to break the aroma because the perfumes volatilize less so you don’t create a vortex which is like a normal spoon. It’s the little things that make the big differences I appreciate that thing you said about fish is usually made on poultry, many times sauces, as Escoffier said, are the pillars of great cuisine, because when you eat braised meat you eat a great sauce you don’t eat great meat, the meat has been cooked 4 hours If you are a good "saucier" you recover the sauce and create a sauce and then it is the sauce that makes the difference, even organoleptic properties and everything is in the sauce so I like to get to the bottom of all these things that are part of man making the fireworks, many are capable having the constancy, continuity and love to keep alive is not for everyone and those, excluding myself, who manage to do so have all my respect, we are primarily restaurateurs, offering a service , you must never forget what you read, it must be there in a season we go thoroughly with all the suppliers: meat fish fruit and vegetables these three months we have this this this is guaranteed for… therefore greater organisation, perfection ahead you come to the guest in 10 days, still with this menu, the dishes, you can eat others but if you take these they are identical, come in 3 months as the season expires, you won’t find anything anymore because if you don’t follow the sky with your eyes, the pace, the climate, you can’t be in love with a job and above all you can’t have your own identity we left D’O and we are super enthusiastic What to say after 4 years and an extra star How much did we spend Gianni? €625, Ok then we’ll tell you right away: €625 confirms the opinions of the last time we were in Cornaredo but the view over the square and the attention to detail , cutlery and seating is very high are details that we really have appreciated because they really add that extra something so that one leaves here satisfied the dishes, one after the other, balanced, fun I was very happy to have finally tried the caramelized onion which we hadn’t tried yet we were as always enthusiastic about the risotto that had already made us fly in 2019 and made us fly again today I particularly appreciated the carrot dessert what can you say guys accompanying wines of both qualitative and quantitative level because now I have to drive Franci took the opportunity to get a gift book that was missing from her collection, never miss the little square and the rain because we are talking to you in the rain, that’s all See you in the next video Apschhh!