We were both pleasantly surprised by the glasses of Polish Pinot noir we chose to accompany our first courses, too, since I feared the wine might be thin and tannic like reds from Slovakia and the Czech Republic. Instead, this pour from vineyards south of Kraków was pleasantly crisp with a nose of cooked red fruits. Our main courses were excellent as well.. Korzen’s pierogies (dumplings) were filled with fluffy potato, garnished with farmer’s cheese and crescents of red onion, a deeply satisfying dish that showcased his talent as a chef to refine the rusticity of a dish without losing its gastronomic soul. Similarly, the filling in a beautifully made stuffed cabbage was a fine forcemeat of slow-braised lamb, crispy rice and tomato with earthy quenelles of mushroom duxelles. These dishes teamed well with another carefully structured Polish red, Triada Domaine de L’Opera, which is made with Cabernet Cantor, Cabernet Cortis and Baron grapes. We shared an excellent sernik (Polish cheesecake), which came topped with red fruit compote for dessert, and were quietly amazed by the improbable lightness of Korzen’s fully-flavoured cooking.
The cosy main dining room has a wood-burning stove, so I’m very much looking forward to coming back here this winter, especially since the Polish kitchen has such a rich battery of winter soups and stews.
Matka, 78 rue Quincampoix, 3rd arrondissement, Paris. Tel. (33) 01 44 93 58 14,
From France Today Magazine