The newest restaurant in Bottura’s little empire, Al Gatto Verde is an ode to wood-fired cooking by Casa Maria Luigia’s Culinary Director Jessica Rosval. Not quite fine dining and not a casual barbecue spot either, it offers the option to order dishes like baby back ribs with juniper-infused balsamic vinegar a la carte. But the way to go is to order the eight-course tasting menu, so you can taste all the creative ways Rosval plays with smoke and flames.
One of Parma’s most beloved restaurants, this traditional trattoria makes the most divine pumpkin-stuffed tortelli. Start with the antipasto misto and the torta fritta, but be sure to save room for dessert. They’ll wheel a cart of homemade gelato and various toppings over to your table for an Emilian version of make-your-own sundaes.
This family-run restaurant attached to the Daniel Hotel in Parma is a favorite among locals and visitors alike. In addition to standards like charcuterie and tortelli, you’ll find more unusual dishes like pumpkin flan with parmesan fonduta and Parmesan rice savarin, a dome of risotto draped with prosciutto.
Established in 1856, this historic bakery in Parma claims to have invented the torta ungherese, a rich cake with layers of sponge cake and chocolate buttercream. Stop by to try it for yourself—they sell it in individual portions or whole cakes.
The walls of this intimate restaurant open since 1944 in the center of Bologna are covered with black-and-white photographs of actors who dined there in the past. Today you’ll find the same dishes that have been on the menu for decades, including a sublime tagliatelle al ragù and tarte tatin.
It doesn’t get much more old school than this restaurant that opened in 1909 in the heart of Bologna. White-jacketed waiters still serve lasagna and other traditional Emilian dishes. If you order the tortellini in brodo (which you should), the waiter will serve it tableside, ladled from a silver tureen on a cart.
If the heavy Emilian cuisine starts to weigh you down, head to this historic wine bar in Bologna to sample natural wines and graze on focaccia and prosciutto. Grab a bottle off the shelves stocked with more than 500 labels, or ask the owner for a recommendation.
Where to Shop
The shopping district in Bologna.Photo: Getty Images
The owner of this little shop in Modena sources beautiful fabrics from around the world and transforms them into chic toes, clutches, and backpacks. You might find a Missoni-inspired shoulder bag, a damask clutch with a gold chain, or a tote made from an Oriental rug.
Want to bring home some of Emilia-Romagna’s gastronomic specialties? The shelves and counter of this little gourmet deli in Parma are piled high with tortellini, vacuum-sealed salami, Parmigiano Reggiano, and other delicacies.
Photo: Getty Images