When you ask someone about their favorite restaurant in Providence, one name comes up a lot \u2014 Al Forno. Love it or hate it, it\u2019s a Rhode Island institution \u2014 a husband-and-wife affair that began as a side project by two RISD-trained artists. Some say it made Providence a culinary hotspot when it opened in 1980. Forty six years later, a table at Al Forno is still a hot commodity.<\/p>\n
All my meals at Al Forno start the same. It could be a 9 p.m. last-minute walk-in or a pre-planned celebratory dinner, but I always start things off with the grilled pizza. Whether it\u2019s the simple pepperoni or the delicious sweet corn they offer in warmer months, it\u2019s always a treat to share with the table.<\/p>\n
It\u2019s always loud, busy and exciting inside this two story brick warehouse building. There\u2019s a bar area near the entrance, and multiple sectioned-off dining rooms within. For this meal we were seated by the windows, our table packed but comfortable.<\/p>\n
This visit introduced me to a new seasonal pizza \u2014\u00a0mushrooms with cheese and scallions ($26), all atop their signature grilled pizza base. It\u2019s always the simple things that pack the biggest punch, and at Al Forno, their signature pizza crust does just that. It\u2019s charred on a wood-fire stove, creating the iconic grill marks and subtle smoky aroma that\u2019s nothing short of intoxicating. Cut it up, grab the smallest edge of a crust and fold it up for the perfect addictingly chewy bite.\u00a0<\/p>\n
For me, pasta always comes next \u2014\u00a0the baked shells ($25) served in a ceramic casserole are boiling hot, loaded with melted cheese and perfect for larger groups. It\u2019s heavy on the cream and slightly burnt on the top, but the slight sweetness of Al Forno\u2019s pomodoro sauce balances it all out. My personal favorite, however, is their rigatoni bolognese ($26). I may be biased as a sucker for rigatoni, but I truly believe Al Forno has perfected this dish. The al dente pasta buries itself into that simple, hearty veal and pork sauce. I\u2019m tempted to order rigatoni bolognese whenever I see it on any menu, but I am always disappointed by anything but the \u201coriginal\u201d at Al Forno.\u00a0<\/p>\n
The restaurant\u2019s other heavy hitters include their dirty steak ($49) and clam roast ($36). Both come with large heapings of rustic mashed potatoes and are packed full of flavor. Again \u2014 simple, strong sauces done exceptionally well. The steak comes medium rare, soaking in a dark jus with a slight kick that pairs beautifully with the tender meat. While technically a \u201csecret menu\u201d item, it tends to come up as a daily special, a solid plate of protein to balance out the carbs. Then there\u2019s the unexpected combination of spicy sausages and fresh New England clams, which never fails to impress. With bits of sauteed onions in the sauce, it\u2019s punchy, fresh and perfect.<\/p>\n
At another Italian restaurant, you might find dessert on a separate menu: some plain old vanilla ice cream, maybe a slice of chocolate cake. But at Al Forno, dessert is a main course in its own right, ordered ahead of time with the rest of your food \u2014 you\u2019re left anticipating a wonderful sweet treat. The pies are absolutely to die for, made to order with seasonal toppings. I had the fig tart ($22) a la mode with an amazing banana chocolate chunk ice cream ($16), both house-made. A fork-full of soft pie crust, a dash of fig filling and a half scoop of ice cream to finish off what was an incredible meal. I\u2019m always left wanting to stay a little longer \u2014 to forget about the rest of the day and simply enjoy the food at Al Forno. You ought to try it sometime, too.<\/p>\n
Service: Friendly<\/p>\n
Sound level: Loud, Conversational<\/p>\n
Recommended dishes: Grilled Pizza, Rigatoni Bolognese, Pies<\/p>\n
Hours: Tuesday through Friday 5 p.m. to 10 p.m., Saturday 4 p.m. to 10 p.m., Sunday and Monday Closed<\/p>\n
Price range: Appetizers $14\u201325, Entrees $24\u201350, Desserts $10-22 (sharing)<\/p>\n
Wheelchair accessibility: Yes<\/p>\n
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