Vegan, shmeygan \u2014 red meat in all its bloody glory is the king of New York taste.<\/p>\n
While the media hype a mostly\u00a0imaginary craving for plants, seeds,\u00a0obscure global delicacies and 10-seat omakase counters, the numbers tell the real story about what New Yorkers are paying to eat.<\/p>\n
Why the disconnect between popular taste and politicized shilling for plant-based diets?<\/p>\n
The Butcher\u2019s Feast is served at Cote. Emmy Park for NY Post<\/p>\n
Max Tucci, a partner in Delmonico\u2019s chuckled, \u201cNew York never lost its appetite for steak \u2014 it\u2019s just the headlines that\u00a0 went elsewhere.\u201d<\/p>\n
More than 15 new steakhouses of all kinds opened in the Big Apple over the past three years, many of them 200-plus-seat giants. As many launched between 2019 and 2023.\u00a0\u00a0<\/p>\n
Nearly all are thriving, notwithstanding publicity\u00a0for supposedly healthier fare. Only a tiny handful closed over the same period, most notably Porter House and a single Wolfgang\u2019s branch out of five.<\/p>\n
The new, thundering herd included the uptown edition of Korean-style Cote; Las Vegas-inspired Golden Steer and Carver Steak; Monte Carlo-born Beefbar; Argentine-inspired Graciela and Baires Grill;\u00a0 Mexican-style Cuerno; and La Tete D\u2019or from French-born Daniel Boulud.<\/p>\n
Elder is based on British-Indian menus; Fogo de Chao brought its Brazilian style to\u00a0 the World Trade Center; and Amasa goes\u00a0Latin\u00a0at the Kimpton Era Hotel.<\/p>\n
The most recent global tide\u00a0was preceded by Salt Bae\u2019s Nusr-Et (Turkish), Hawskmoor (English), and Carne Mare (Italian).<\/p>\n
Serves James prepares the Bananas Foster at Golden Steer at One Fifth Avenue. Tamara Beckwith\/NY Post<\/p>\n
There\u2019s no slowing the momentum. Last year brought instantly successful Palladino\u2019s at Grand Central Terminal. This year\u00a0 saw the Manhattan debuts of Atlantis Prime, Vinyl Steakhouse and Dynamo Room.<\/p>\n
Coming soon are one of next year\u2019s most anticipated openings, Delmonico\u2019s Reserve on midtown Sixth Avenue.\u00a0Also coming soon are Jack D\u2019s and\u00a0Maple & Ash from Chicago, which promises to be the first\u00a0 \u201cexperiential steakhouse.\u201d<\/p>\n
Meanwhile, old-school beeferies\u00a0like Peter Luger, Smith & Wollensky, Sparks, Wolfgang\u2019s, Empire Steak and Knickerbocker Bar & Grill continue to prosper.<\/p>\n
Prime rib is carved at a trolley at La T\u00eate d\u2019Or. Stefano Giovannini<\/p>\n
Michael Stillman\u2019s company Quality Branded includes the original Manhattan Smith & Wollensky, which has seen a 5-10% increase in business over the past two years \u2014 \u201ca big number for a 50-year-old place,\u201d he marveled.<\/p>\n
Realization that New Yorkers love red meat more than ever even prompted some famous chefs and owners to change course.<\/p>\n
Vegan-heaven Eleven Madison Park added beef and chicken to its menu for the first time early this year. Jose Andres turned his Baazar at the Ritz-Carlton Nomad into Bazaar Meat \u2014 a steakhouse. Simon Oren\u2019s Monterey originally identified as an American brasserie; it\u2019s now proudly \u201ca modern steakhouse.\u201d<\/p>\n
Delmonico\u2019s Reserve is opening in 2027 on West 54th Street. Helayne Seidman for NY Post<\/p>\n
Mark Bucher, a National Restaurant Association board member who founded the\u00a0Medium Rare empire including a Manhattan outpost, recalled that the great French chef Paul Bocuse advised young chefs, \u201cGive customers what they want \u2014 not what you want.\u201d<\/p>\n
For Americans and for most New Yorkers, \u201cMeat and potatoes are the center our diets\u201d notwithanding exotic passing fads, Bucher said.<\/p>\n
For sure, Big Apple steakhouses now offer first-rate seafood, pasta and salads as well. And the beef\u2019s never been as good, from USDA Prime to Japanese Wagyu blends.<\/p>\n
The downstairs dining room of Graciela, a new Argentine restaurant from Pablo Rivero. Olga Ginzburg for the N.Y. Post<\/p>\n
Today\u2019s steakhouses \u201care more elevated,\u201d said Sebastien Silvestri, CEO of Daniel Boulud\u2019s Dinex Group.<\/p>\n
At Boulud\u2019s elegant La Tete D\u2019or, where the most popular cuts\u00a0 are filet mignon, porterhouse, cote de bouf and New York strip, \u201cDaniel sources the best meat from around the globe and uses French techniques on it.\u201d<\/p>\n
Its success came as no surprise to Silvestri. When he previously worked at several Las Vegas casino hotels, \u201cWe had the\u00a0 best chefs in the world, like Daniel, Thomas Keller and Charlie Trotter.<\/p>\n
\u201cAnd out of 40 restaurants the four top-grossing ones were all steakhouses.\u201d<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"
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