Montclair certainly isn’t lacking in Italian restaurants, but Clementina gives New Jerseyans another compelling reason to pull up a chair. With a name that sounds as charming as the experience promises to be, this inviting newcomer opened in June, and has become an instant hit. Bringing a fresh spin on the familiar in a town already brimming with culinary talent, chef and owner Michele Rocchi has taken a daring approach, showcasing niche dishes from his home town of Senigallia, located in the less-lauded, coastal region of Marche. After a 20-year run at three-Michelin star restaurant, Uliassi, Rocchi and his family took a leap of faith, moving to the states, enamored by the charm of Montclair in search of their next chapter.
“There’s a famous American folk song, ‘Oh My Darling, Clementine,’ whose origins remain somewhat mysterious. I love that connection, but the real inspiration is much simpler: clementines are among my favorite citrus fruits. I’m fascinated by the extraordinary intensity of the essential oils in their peel,” chef Rocchi said. “Just a little zest can transform something as simple as buttered pasta into a surprisingly sophisticated dish. The same is true of a gin and tonic or even a fresh salad. For me, cooking is often about these small details that completely change the experience.”
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Dining room at Clementina in Montclair(Stephanie Rizzolo | for NJ Advance Media)
When it comes to ingredients, chef Rocchi’s philosophy is consistent with the fundamentals on which authentic Italian cuisine stands.
“We don’t believe authentic Italian cooking requires exclusively Italian ingredients. Quite the opposite. I love working with local farms, seasonal produce, and the extraordinary seafood available through the Bronx fish market. Italian soul, exceptional local ingredients, and technique in service of flavor. That’s what defines Clementina,” he said.
Having grown up on Italian food, I’m always eager to discover fresh interpretations of the familiar flavors, especially when a restaurant finds a way to make something so nostalgic feel entirely new.
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A tribute to mozzarella at Clementina in Montclair(Stephanie Rizzolo | for NJ Advance Media)
The good
The meal started off with a beautiful display — a combination of simple ingredients allowing an otherwise mellow cheese to shine. A “Tribute to Mozzarella” ($25) featured creamy medallions of mozzarella, toasted pistachios, capers, anchovies, basil, sun-dried tomatoes and toasted bread. Everything was set atop a pool of burrata cream and was finished with oregano-infused olive oil. Creamy, crunchy, briny and nutty, this dish spun a full 360 on flavors and textures.
Maccheroncini al fumé at Clementina in Montclair(Stephanie Rizzolo | for NJ Advance Media)
One of my favorite dishes of the meal was chef Rocchi’s maccheroncini al fumé ($30). “I make this dish for my son,” he shared. A regional classic, it also featured pasta made in Senigallia by a specific technique called the “Massi Method ” that involves extruding the pasta at a lower temperature and adding egg whites to the dough for a higher protein content. I could tell that this wasn’t your ordinary boxed pasta, toothy and nutty enough to stand up against the smokey flavors of the sauce. The melty scamorza cheese and crispy pancetta added a level of comfort that felt like a hug. A must-order.
Roasted grouper at Clementina in Montclair(Stephanie Rizzolo | for NJ Advance Media)
Coming from a seaside town, Rocchi’s menu leans heavily on seafood. The roasted grouper ($42) was delicious, complemented by the earthy porcini sauce with punches of brightness from dried blueberries and a tangy blueberry sauce. An unexpected pairing that worked well.
Eggplant parmigiana at Clementina in Montclair(Stephanie Rizzolo | for NJ Advance Media)
My favorite dish was chef Rocchi’s classic eggplant parmigiana ($32). This labor of love involves stacking layers of paper thin, roasted eggplant with mozzarella, a traditional Livorno-style tomato sauce, basil pesto, and grated parmigiano in a large tray. It’s baked until golden and finished with extra virgin olive oil, then sliced to order. I appreciated chef Rocchi’s creative yet lighter twist, as opposed to the more typical fried versions.
My interpretation of tiramisù at Clementina in Montclair(Stephanie Rizzolo | for NJ Advance Media)
I rounded out my meal with “My Interpretation of Tiramisu” ($18), chef Rocchi’s creation that arrived in a gorgeous glass. This layered dessert started with cubes of granita-style frozen coffee and anise, topped with a thick layer of rum-infused mascarpone cream, and finished with crisp meringue, caramelized nuts, crushed cocoa nibs and cocoa powder. You do have to dig down to get a composed bite, but when you do, you’re hit with the unexpected frozen element, creaminess and crunchy topping. Tiramisu meets ice cream sundae.
Roasted petite scallops at Clementina in Montclair(Stephanie Rizzolo | for NJ Advance Media)
The bad
The one dish that fell short was the roasted petite scallops ($26). I enjoyed the flavors and brightness of the greens, pink grapefruit, and ginger and pink peppercorn sauce, but the scallops were room temperature, which made the whole dish feel a bit less vibrant.
Second dining room at Clementina in Montclair(Stephanie Rizzolo | for NJ Advance Media)
The vibe
Clementina exudes an effortless elegance. From the moment you walk through the doors, it’s clear the design is thoughtful and executed with a great deal of intentionality. The soft colors, brick archway and light woodwork set the tone for chef Rocchi’s composed but approachable cuisine, and sense of home. Even the bathroom is gorgeous; a bold contrast with striking marble, deep burgundy tiles and brass fixtures. Guests can get a peek into the spotless, stainless steel-clad kitchen as they return to their table. Light music is a backdrop to the neighboring conversations. Wine is available by bottle.
The bottom line
Clementina is a refreshing departure from the familiar Italian-American playbook that dominates much of New Jersey’s dining scene. The elegant yet cozy space sets the stage for a menu that takes a more inventive approach to Italian cuisine, with dishes that are intriguing and, for the most part, very well executed. Not every dish hits the same high note, but Clementina brings a welcome dose of originality to Montclair and the state. Perfect for a pre-theater date night, dinner with friends and families (although I’d happily order the kid’s pasta as an adult). Clementina is worth a visit. The restaurant is open Wednesday to Saturday 5 to 10 p.m. and Sunday 4 to 9 p.m.
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Dining and Cooking