In a high-stakes culinary battle, DC voters soon decide whether foie gras should remain on local menus.
WASHINGTON — A controversial dish is at the center of a food fight in D.C.
On a Thursday afternoon, WUSA9 found Chef Bart Hutchins, who owns Butterworth’s in Southeast D.C., getting ready for the dinner rush. Back in the kitchen, he prepped what’s become one of the most controversial things on his menu — foie gras.
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What is foie gras?
Foie Gras is made from the enlarged liver of a duck or goose, and soon, voters in D.C. will decide if he can keep it on his menu.
“We are involved in a political battle. They’re trying to ban something I really care about,” said Bart Hutchins.
Leading up to Election Day, Hutchins is fighting back against the ballot measure like a chef. He’s created a special four-course foie gras tasting menu at $150 per person in protest of the initiative.
Why is it controversial?
If passed, Initiative 86 would prohibit the sale of the delicacy in D.C. and restaurants and retailers could be fined for serving the food. It’s estimated roughly 50 restaurants have it on their menus.
Supporters say the practice of creating foie gras is cruel, and they gathered thousands of signatures to get the issue on the November ballot.
“I am a true supporter of the ban on foie gras. I believe it’s a cruelty-derived product and in D.C. we’re ready for something new,” said Dr. Oye Owolewa, “A lot of ducks are force-fed through metal tubes. Forced to be so fat they can’t even walk. Unnaturally made. Next thing you know, their livers, once they’re killed, are so engorged it creates a fat substance around the liver. That’s not natural.”
Chefs push back
Hutchins argues that doesn’t mean foie gras should be banned.
“Science isn’t there to prove that it’s particularly harmful or any more harmful than chickens or pigs that we raise to eat. If you’re a vegan and think we shouldn’t eat meat, then by all means vote for this legislation. But, for everyone else – there’s not a good reason to vote for it,” said Hutchins.
And other chefs have weighed in, including world-renowned Chef Jose Andres. In a post on social media, he questioned if duck goes will there be restrictions on other meats.
Critics of the measure also argue the language of the proposal leaves wiggle room that other dishes like pâté could be unintentionally impacted, they raise concerns about the impact on the suppliers of foie gras, noting the D.C. food scene represents a large chunk of buyers, the cost of implementation, and enforcement.
“We’re paying attention to all life forms,” said Dr. Owolewa, “But at the end of the day, we’re really focused on this issue at the time. We’re not thinking about hypotheticals.”
But even if it passes, food writer and cookbook author Nevin Martell says these fights aren’t typically over.
“Other foie gras bans elsewhere in the country,” said Martell, “Some successful. Some unsuccessful and some litigated. These measures, when they do go into effect, are usually contested in court.”
Hutchins says he plans to use the money raised from the dinners for a legal defense fund if it passes.
For voters, you’ll have to weigh both sides.
“If you feel like chefs and consumers can make the best choices for themselves, vote against it,” said Martell. “If you feel like the product is so unethical that it doesn’t deserve to be eaten at all, you should vote for the ban.”
Dining and Cooking