Jasper Cruickshank became executive chef at the Gastown restaurant in March 2025.
Taking over the kitchen of one of Vancouver’s most-respected restaurants is no small undertaking, especially when succeeding Lee Cooper, the chef who founded L’Abattoir in 2010 and shaped its culinary identity for 15 years.
But when Jasper Cruickshank became executive chef in March 2025, his goal wasn’t to reinvent the Gastown institution. It was to build on what was already there.
“I just want to keep that legacy of L’Abattoir alive and not tarnish the reputation that it has,” he says.
For Cruickshank, that responsibility is informed by nearly two decades in professional kitchens and, above all, the mentors who helped him find his way.
His culinary journey began in Vancouver, where an interest in cooking competitions connected him with renowned Canadian chef Bruno Marti. Their introduction wasn’t entirely conventional: Marti was unimpressed by the young cook’s baggy pants and hats. But after a week-long stage at Marti’s La Belle Auberge, Cruickshank earned an apprenticeship that would change his career.
Marti’s influence extended far beyond the stove. After Cruickshank competed with Junior Team Canada at the 2012 Culinary Olympics, he stayed in Europe, staging at acclaimed restaurants including Aqua in Wolfsburg and Geranium in Copenhagen. Marti later joined him, travelling through Germany and taking him to his hometown in Switzerland.
“He really took me under his wing,” Cruickshank recalls.
The European kitchens demanded extraordinary precision, from plating to the way herbs were stored and workstations cleaned.
“Everything’s important. All the little details,” he says.
But Cruickshank also saw a harshness he didn’t want to reproduce. He brought home the discipline without believing intimidation was necessary to achieve excellence.
Chef already creating legacy for the next generation
Back in Vancouver, another mentor helped shape his approach. Cruickshank joined the opening team at Boulevard Kitchen & Oyster Bar and later returned to work with chef Alex Chen, who encouraged him to develop dishes and explore his creativity. Chen reinforced the importance of seasoning, acidity and balance, teaching him that presentation should never outrank taste.
“For me, obviously, the flavours are the most important,” Cruickshank says. “Creating something that’s aesthetic to the eye comes secondary.”
He admires Chen’s relentless drive, calling him “the hungriest person I’ve ever seen.” Cruickshank has a competitive streak of his own: he won the 2024 Canadian Culinary Championship while working at Whistler’s Wild Blue.
At L’Abattoir, however, individual accolades take a back seat to respecting the restaurant’s traditions and giving others room to contribute. The menu remains grounded in French technique and West Coast ingredients, with influences from further afield. Cruickshank intends to preserve favourites such as the foie gras terrine and oysters while introducing his own ideas.
One dish he’s especially proud of features scallops cured in shio koji with yuzu and pickled daikon. Its freshness, acidity and contrasting textures reflect his belief that the best dishes are balanced rather than needlessly elaborate.
He’s equally eager to discuss a creation by his chef de cuisine, Baker Hsu: hot-smoked hamachi served over buttery Koshihikari rice seasoned with house-cultured shio koji. Taking inspiration from an Italian risotto.
“I want to give him some credit too,” Cruickshank says. “He’s a very talented chef and big part of the restaurant.”
That instinct to share the spotlight says much about the kitchen he wants to lead. Having benefited from Marti’s and Chen’s guidance, Cruickshank wants younger cooks to feel supported while being challenged to improve. He values curiosity and work ethic over an impressive resume.
“I need hungry people. Not people that think they already know everything,” he says.
After spending an hour with Cruickshank, I came away seeing a chef in every sense of the word. Not simply an accomplished cook, but someone who considers his responsibility to extend well beyond the plate.
Nearly two decades into a career that began at 17, his enthusiasm hasn’t faded. Listening to him, I couldn’t help but think of Marti and Chen, two chefs who invested in his future. Now he’s doing the same for others.
And after our conversation, I’m confident that L’Abattoir’s legacy, and its future, are in very good hands.
Christian Alvarez is the founder of Vancouver Chefs and the ICON Dinner Series, platforms that bring together celebrated chefs for immersive, culture driven dining experiences. A graduate of the Northwest Culinary Academy in Vancouver, he blends culinary training with a passion for storytelling, photography and community building. Through curated collaborations, he explores the intersection of food, film, music and art, creating intimate events that celebrate both craft and creativity. When he is not curating dinners, he runs the Vancouver seawall, spends long hours on the road as an avid cyclist, and explores the world through its food and culture.
Dining and Cooking