A consummate chef professional, Phil Howard is a partner with Rebecca Mascarenhas in two of London’s most fashionable neighbourhood restaurants – Kitchen W8 in Kensington, and Elystan Street in Chelsea – both with Michelin stars.
After 25 years with The Square in Mayfair, which held two stars, the restaurant was sold and Phil embarked on new ventures, including launching Kitchen W8 in 2009, with head chef Mark Kempson at the helm of the modern British restaurant.
Elystan Street opened in 2016 and has become a local and destination favourite with foodies, and Phil regularly hosts a series of collaboration dinners there with high-profile chef pals – including Jackson Boxer, Thomas Straker, Adam Byatt, and Jamie Oliver.
A leading figure in the UK hospitality industry, Phil has also been a mentor and investor to young entrepreneurial restaurant ventures. He also owns the successful pasta restaurant brand – Notto – which currently has three sites (in Piccadilly, Covent Garden, and the City).
We caught up with the celebrated chef to learn more about his influences, what you’ll find him doing on days off and why seasonality is at the core of his kitchen.
Philip Howard has always been a “chef’s chef”, notching up years of service and influencing the industry immeasurably
Can you tell us a little bit about yourself, including where you are today, professionally, and what got you here?
I first started cooking at university. Quickly took over my life…..had three jobs prior to opening The Square – working for the Roux brothers, Marco Pierre White and Simon Hopkinson. Elystan Street followed on after 25 wonderful years at The Square.
What or who inspired you to become a chef?
The simple joy of cooking.
Who has been your biggest influence to get you to where you are today?
Marco Pierre White.
What’s your signature dish?
Hard to say……broadly speaking, pasta has probably been the vehicle that has delivered more pleasure to my guests than anything else over the years!
What are the most important considerations when crafting your menu?
Seasonality and provenance.
Do your personal preferences influence the menu at all?
Absolutely!
How would you describe your cooking style?
Honest – the delivery of pleasure through harmony of flavour.
Do you have a favourite time of year or set of ingredients that you look forward to working with?
No. Every season has its wonderful bounty.
What is your favourite ingredient to create with?
Impossible to pick a single ingredient. I certainly couldn’t cook without onions.
What would you be doing if you weren’t a chef?
Sculptor.
What is your favourite dish to cook at home?
Roast chicken.
Johannesburg native Phil Howard, chef-patron of Elystan Street restaurant, is a chef loved and respected by the industry
When are you happiest?
Cooking.
What is your favourite piece of kitchen equipment?
A hefty chopping board.
When you’re not in the kitchen where can you be found?
On my bicycle.
What’s your favourite takeaway or comfort food?
Anything Indian.
Where is your favourite place to dine?
The River Café.
What do you think is the most over-hyped food trend?
Matcha!
What differences do you find working with local produce as opposed to non-local produce in terms of what you can create and flavour?
I never cook with non-local from an ethical point of view. We have four magical seasons in the uk and there is simply no need to import from afar.
How do you go about menu planning?
Seasonality drives everything.
What’s the process from picking the ingredients to getting them fresh into the kitchen and into dishes?
Once again, it’s all about the seasons. Use the full range of ingredients that are in season at any one time and you will always have a glorious menu.
One of London’s very best restaurants, Elystan Street is a collaboration between chef Phil Howard and restaurateur Rebecca Mascarenhas
How would you describe the food you create at Elystan Street to someone who’s never experienced your kind of food?
Flavourful, honest and satisfying.
What’s your favourite flavour combination?
Mushrooms, thyme and garlic.
What is the USP of your restaurant?
To send diners back into the world even happier than when they arrived.
What do your future plans entail?
To cook more, work less and travel!
Factbox
elystanstreet.com
kitchenw8.com
nottopastabars.com
All imagery credit: Phil Howard
Dining and Cooking