Welcome to The Detour: Your weekly food and travel guide to the best flavours, hidden haunts, insider tips and unforgettable new experiences that reward those who wander off course.
A slice of Italy in the Sydney CBD
If you’ve seen a line snaking its way down Sydney’s Pitt Street lately, you’re not alone.
I now understand why… and will happily be joining it myself again in the weeks to come.
World-famous Florence sandwich shop All’Antico Vinaio has officially landed in Australia, opening its first outpost in the CBD.
And as someone who will almost always stop for a good sandwich, this one is worth knowing about.
The family-owned institution is famous for its schiacciata – a traditional Tuscan flatbread baked with olive oil and salt until crisp on the outside and beautifully soft within – generously stuffed with premium Italian ingredients.
It’s a simple formula, but one that’s become something of a global phenomenon.
All’Antico Vinaio has been drawing enormous queues around the world since its original Florence store opened beneath Palazzo Vecchio more than three decades ago – and Sydney appears to be wasting no time following suit
The family-owned institution is famous for its schiacciata – a traditional Tuscan flatbread baked with olive oil and salt until crisp on the outside and beautifully soft within – generously stuffed with premium Italian ingredients
More than 5.5 million schiacciate were sold in 2025 alone, and there are now more than 60 stores across Italy, France, North America, the Middle East and, finally, Australia.
Founder and CEO Tommaso Mazzanti has brought the Florence original to a sparkling new shopfront at 50 Pitt Street, just a stone’s throw from Circular Quay – complete with glimpses of the Harbour Bridge from the window-side bench.
The Sydney menu features 15 schiacciate, including the viral Paradiso – mortadella, stracciatella, pistachio pesto and chopped pistachios – of which more than 250,000 have already been sold across Europe and the UK this year.
There’s also an Australian exclusive, aptly named the Sydney, filled with Papandrea’s award-winning wagyu bresaola, parmesan and rocket.
Mazzanti’s personal favourite, though, is the Favolosa: Tuscan sbriciolona salami, pecorino cream, artichoke cream and spicy aubergines.
‘It reminds me of growing up in Florence and enjoying my first sandwich with my parents at our home,’ he said.
‘It’s an iconic Florentine salami but it was so little-known before we started using it, that even people in Tuscany hadn’t heard of it.’
We spent a good chunk of time in the store during our visit and half the fun is watching it all happen.
We spent a good chunk of time in the store during our visit and half the fun is watching it all happen
By 11am the place was already buzzing, with the predominantly Italian team assembling enormous sandwiches at speed as tray after tray of fresh schiacciata emerged from the oven
As for the secret behind that addictive crunch? I’m afraid they’re keeping that one firmly under wraps
By 11am the place was already buzzing, with the predominantly Italian team assembling enormous sandwiches at speed as tray after tray of fresh schiacciata emerged from the oven.
As for the secret behind that addictive crunch? I’m afraid they’re keeping that one firmly under wraps.
What I can share are our picks: the Paradiso, the Boss and the Caprese. Divine. So much so that one member of our team promptly declared the Paradiso her ‘death row meal’.
And while these are not dainty sandwiches (come hungry), it’s the quality of the ingredients that makes all the difference.
Much of what’s used in Sydney is imported directly from Italy, including the flour, 16-month-aged Prosciutto di Parma, buffalo mozzarella, parmesan and pecorino. The schiacciata is baked fresh on-site every day, while the creams and pesto are made in-house and fresh produce is sourced locally.
Mazzanti has partnered with MasterChef’s Andy Allen, alongside Jonny Stewart and Ali Mattar from Fladgate Hospitality Group to bring the brand Down Under.
While these are not dainty sandwiches (come hungry), it’s the quality of the ingredients that makes them sing
Allen first tried All’Antico Vinaio while on holiday in Florence several years ago and immediately saw the appeal.
‘The sandwiches are so simple and familiar, but it’s the ingredients and attention to detail that has made the brand such a success,’ he said.
‘The quality is off the charts.’
He’s not wrong.
All’Antico Vinaio has been drawing enormous queues around the world since its original Florence store opened beneath Palazzo Vecchio more than three decades ago – and Sydney appears to be wasting no time following suit.
Is lining up for a sandwich usually my idea of fun? Not particularly.
Would I do it for that Paradiso? See you in the queue.
Mazzanti’s personal favourite, though, is the Favolosa: Tuscan sbriciolona salami, pecorino cream, artichoke cream and spicy aubergines
What I can share are our picks: the Paradiso (pictured), the Boss and the Caprese. Divine. So much so that one member of our team promptly declared the Paradiso her ‘death row meal’
Steersons Steakhouse 2.0
This spot is a vibe.
I already thought Steersons on Sydney’s King Street Wharf was fabulous – great steak, gorgeous waterfront setting and always good fun.
But after 20 years in the business, the Sydney stalwart has undergone a rather shiny transformation and it’s even better.
Think an epic new menu, warm, family-style atmosphere, beautiful interiors, a passionate team and a clever new philosophy built around three simple things: salt, fire and water.
Second-generation owner George Vardis has taken the reins for this new chapter, reimagining both the restaurant and dining experience while keeping everything people have loved about Steersons for the past two decades intact.
The ‘salt, fire and water’ concept runs through it all: salt represents the restaurant’s commitment to flavour and quality produce; fire, its signature charcoal cooking; and water, the harbour location.
And it works.
I already thought Steersons on Sydney’s King Street Wharf was fabulous – great steak, gorgeous waterfront setting and always good fun
Start with the Sydney Rock Oysters with red wine shallot dressing, followed by the charred Fremantle octopus with salsa verde and the gorgeous Spencer Gulf kingfish ceviche with confit fennel, charred orange and pistachio
The restaurant itself has been given a significant facelift by Ergo Architecture’s Chris Kokkinis, with marble, timber and other natural materials transforming it into a lighter, more elevated space that cleverly draws your eye straight out to the water.
‘We’re welcoming a new chapter and evolution for Steersons Steakhouse, building on two decades of heritage,’ Vardis said.
Now, to the important bit: the food.
Leading the kitchen is Executive Chef Thai Sams, whose résumé includes Botanica, two-hatted Bentley Restaurant & Bar and one-hatted venues Shelter, The Wolfe and Restaurant Two.
His approach is produce-led and fire-driven, with classical Western techniques meeting Eastern ingredients and flavours – and there are some seriously good things happening on that menu.
My highlights? Easy.
Steak purists are also very well catered for, with a line-up of premium Australian cuts spanning eye fillet, sirloin, rib-eye, flat iron and T-bone, plus an exclusive Stone Axe bavette sourced locally through Vic’s Meats
We opted for the 500g O’Connor Ox grass-fed, MBS 2+ dry-aged steak to share, complete with a mustard flight, creamy mash, fennel salad and the tastiest crispy Brussels sprouts I’ve had in a very long time
Start with the Sydney Rock Oysters with red wine shallot dressing, followed by the charred Fremantle octopus with salsa verde and the gorgeous Spencer Gulf kingfish ceviche with confit fennel, charred orange and pistachio.
Then the steak.
We opted for the 500g O’Connor Ox grass-fed, MBS 2+ dry-aged steak to share, complete with a mustard flight, creamy mash, fennel salad and the tastiest crispy Brussels sprouts I’ve had in a very long time.
A steakhouse side shouldn’t threaten to upstage the steak, but here we are.
There is plenty more I already have earmarked for a return visit, too – particularly the butterflied Aquna Murray cod with tarragon butter and Chinderah Bay bugs with miso butter and native finger lime.
Steak purists are very well catered for, with a line-up of premium Australian cuts spanning eye fillet, sirloin, rib-eye, flat iron and T-bone, plus an exclusive Stone Axe bavette sourced locally through Vic’s Meats.
What I like most about the new Steersons is that it still feels like a steakhouse, but you’re absolutely not limited to steak.
Twenty years in, Steersons hasn’t tried to reinvent itself beyond recognition. It’s simply taken what it already did well and made it sharper, fresher and much more exciting
There’s beautiful Australian seafood, plenty of lighter options and a thoughtfully curated wine list from sommelier Eva Santaguida, alongside cocktails, beers and spirits.
The 120-seat restaurant offers indoor and outdoor dining and manages to feel polished without becoming stuffy – equally suited to a long lunch, date night, family dinner or an after-work steak and wine by the water.
There’s also a dedicated kids’ menu and speedy lunch and bar offering, which is clever given its position in the heart of Sydney’s western CBD corridor.
Twenty years in, Steersons hasn’t tried to reinvent itself beyond recognition. It’s simply taken what it already did well and made it sharper, fresher and much more exciting.
It’s a keeper – and definitely one to add to the list pronto before everyone else catches on.
Join the discussion
Are gourmet sandwiches and luxury dining worth the hype and price, or have we lost touch with food simplicity?
It’s a keeper – and definitely one to add to the list pronto before everyone else catches on
NOA is bringing NEL magic to Cronulla
I’m excited about this one.
After more than a decade of creating some of Sydney’s most theatrical dining experiences at Surry Hills favourite NEL, chef Nelly Robinson is heading to the beach.
This September, Robinson and partner Danielle Richards-Robinson will open NOA at Cronulla – taking the creativity and attention to detail NEL is famous for and giving it a lighter and more relaxed coastal spin.
And importantly, this isn’t another degustation-only affair.
NOA is… whatever you want it to be. Pop in for a steak and glass of wine, start with the Champagne and caviar trolley, build your own cheese board in the dedicated wine room or settle in for the full eight-course chef’s selection.
‘It’s your experience. We simply help shape it,’ Robinson says.
The à la carte menu sounds fun too: Bug toast, premium rib-eye, whole fish to share and Robinson’s signature Banoffee Trifle, alongside more theatrical treats including liquid nitrogen fairy bread and interactive seafood dishes.
After more than a decade of creating some of Sydney’s most theatrical dining experiences at Surry Hills favourite NEL, chef Nelly Robinson is heading to the beach
NOA is… whatever you want it to be. Pop in for a steak and glass of wine, start with the Champagne and caviar trolley, build your own cheese board in the dedicated wine room or settle in for the full eight-course chef’s selection
And then there’s Little NOA – its laidback oceanfront sibling, where you can hop straight off the beach for burgers, snacks and cocktails without a booking. Breakfast joins the mix from October as well.
For Robinson and Richards-Robinson, who are both Cronulla locals, the idea was to create the kind of restaurant Shire residents might usually travel into the city for without losing that relaxed neighbourhood feel.
‘We’ve always believed Cronulla deserved a restaurant experience that could sit alongside Sydney’s best while still feeling completely local,’ Richards-Robinson says.
With two private dining rooms, spectacular ocean views and a choose-your-own-adventure approach to dining, NOA sounds like it could be a very welcome addition to locals.
This spot’s straight onto the September hit list.
‘It’s your experience. We simply help shape it,’ Robinson says
For Robinson and Richards-Robinson, who are both Cronulla locals, the idea was to create the kind of restaurant Shire residents might usually travel into the city for without losing that relaxed neighbourhood feel
Robinson and partner Danielle Richards-Robinson will open NOA at Cronulla – taking the creativity and attention to detail NEL is famous for and giving it a lighter and more relaxed coastal spin
Saddles is getting a luxe new addition
Well, this looks dreamy.
Less than an hour from Sydney, much-loved Saddles Mount White is entering a very glamorous new era with the arrival of The Grand Saddles Lodge.
Conceived by entrepreneur John Singleton, the intimate new retreat will feature just 20 private villas, alongside a restaurant, day spa, infinity pool and an Art Deco-inspired piano bar – all tucked among the bushland of Mount White.
And the villas sound gorgeous.
Hidden among the trees, each will feature separate living spaces, an open fireplace, private terrace and its own plunge pool, with interiors using sandstone, spotted gum, warm brass and locally crafted pieces to tie everything back to the surrounding landscape.
Food, unsurprisingly, will be a major part of the experience.
The Lodge’s restaurant will focus on premium Australian seafood, organic beef and poultry with herbs and vegetables grown on-site and an impressive wine list.
Less than an hour from Sydney, much-loved Saddles Mount White is entering a very glamorous new era with the arrival of The Grand Saddles Lodge
Conceived by entrepreneur John Singleton, the intimate new retreat will feature just 20 private villas, alongside a restaurant, day spa, infinity pool and an Art Deco-inspired piano bar – all tucked among the bushland of Mount White
The Lodge’s restaurant will focus on premium Australian produce
Then when dinner wraps there’s Ned’s.
The intimate Art Deco-inspired piano bar is my favourite detail, promising classic cocktails, live jazz, elegant bar snacks and a grand piano.
There’s also a spa with five treatment rooms, traditional and infrared saunas and ice baths, while days can be spent exploring nearby walking trails, oyster farms and the Hawkesbury River.
The new Lodge joins the wider Saddles precinct, including The Homestead at Saddles – previously recognised by Condé Nast Traveller as one of the World’s Most Beautiful Restaurants – as well as The Barn and The Caravan.
And at less than an hour from Sydney, I suspect this one is going to be very popular.
Dining and Cooking