The Greeks have an appetite for life that includes a seemingly insatiable passion for eating out, and the classic Greek dining experience is, of course, the “taverna”. Whether the tables are wedged into the sand or tucked away in a vine-shaded courtyard, the recipe for success is pretty standard: family-run and family-friendly, these informal restaurants serve an array of Greek mezze, followed by grilled meat or fish. The chef might have a special dish or two – nettle pie, or octopus stewed with shallots – but the menu never veers too far from the traditional. And that’s just the way the regulars like it.
You can’t really go wrong eating at a taverna (unless it is one of the tourist traps in Plaka, the old town of Athens). But despite the casual, welcoming atmosphere, there’s a certain etiquette to experiencing a taverna like a local.
How to dine in a taverna like a local1. Don’t show up too early
Greeks eat late – anywhere between 2pm and 4pm for lunch, and never before 9pm for dinner. Most taverna kitchens stay open until midnight. It’s perfectly acceptable to rock up an hour after your appointed date and to spin out a meal over several hours.
2. Table for one? It’s not done
Greeks rarely eat alone. Taverna meals are sociable occasions where friends and extended family noisily share food and gossip. Sex and politics are perfectly acceptable topics of conversation. As the ancient Greek philosopher Epicurus said: “We should look for someone to eat and drink with before looking for something to eat and drink, for dining alone is leading the life of a lion or wolf”. If you do show up to a taverna solo, don’t be surprised if strangers offer you some wine or invite you to join their party.
Dining and Cooking