Yaki Udon at Soy Teriyaki Bistro is a menu favorite. CATHERINE MAYHEW
CATHERINE MAYHEW
Soy Teriyaki Bistro, 5008 Maryland Way in Brentwood, advertises its menu as “fast and fresh Asian cuisine.” It’s Korean inspired despite the name, which originally was attached to a Japanese restaurant.
Liberties are taken and, because the parking lot is always full, it’s obvious they’re much appreciated. There are traditional Korean offerings such as bibimbap and bulgogi, but the menu then veers slightly off course.
Dumplings are offered as an appetizer, but they’re not traditional. The filling contains sweet potato noodles, mushrooms, chives, cabbage, chicken and onions. Dip them in the house sweet chili sauce for a little kick.
Hummus is from the Middle East unless it is made with fresh edamame. The accompanying tortilla chips are Mexican unless they’re drizzled with honey and toasted sesame. Tacos are Mexican, too, but they’re filled with Korean chicken, beef, pork or tofu and topped with a spicy slaw and house sauce. It’s a small world after all.
Cheese and Korean food is not an instant pairing, but it is in the Cheesy Skillet with spicy marinated chicken and rice, topped with mozzarella cheese and creamy wasabi. Is Nashville Hot Chicken the real thing if it’s steamed, chargrilled and then pan-seared in Korean spices? If it’s delicious, does it matter?
We head to China for fried rice, but if you don’t want the traditional version you can get it Korean spicy or with curry. Then over to Japan for Yaki Udon, which includes thick, pleasantly chewy wheat udon noodles stir fried with carrots, onions, broccoli and scallions.
A house teriyaki sauce comes with a lot of these dishes and it stands out for having depth without the cloying sweetness some teriyaki renditions can have.
The wedge salad has murky roots, but most attribute it to American cooks and chefs. So off to the States with a detour to Korea for the bistro’s version of an Asian-inspired thousand island dressing and sweet seaweed. Sauteed vegetables are a blend of green and purple cabbage, onions, carrots and broccoli in a light sauce. The perfect way to eat your veggies.
There’s a sleeper on this menu in the soy rice. It’s a mound of white rice topped with teriyaki sauce and wasabi cream. The sauce and cream drip down into the rice and turn it into a slightly sweet and faintly spicy rice casserole kind of thing. The bistro could definitely bottle the wasabi cream and make a fortune.
Not for everyone
This is not for everyone. In fact, it may be for a select few. But some of us love chicken livers. And there aren’t very many places to get them.
Now, Empire Hot Chicken, inside Empire Market at 5430 Old Hickory Blvd. in Hermitage, has heard our cries of anguish. The gas station spot is gaining a lot of traction for its popular hot chicken, but those of us who love the livers perked up our ears when we heard there was a place to feed our appetite.
They also serve fried chicken gizzards, which aren’t my thing only because they’re so chewy.
Don’t be squeamish. There’s plenty to embrace at Empire Hot Chicken besides organ meat. Aside from the traditional bird, there’s fried ravioli and mushrooms, burgers and cheesesteaks, and wings. Perfect football food. I’ll be over in the corner enjoying some livers.
Catherine Mayhew is a former restaurant critic for The Charlotte Observer, cookbook author and master BBQ judge. Follow her @thesouthinmymouth on Instagram to see what she’s eating and email her at food@mainstreetmediatn.com with suggestions on your favorite restaurants and food trucks.
Dining and Cooking