Best Porto restaurant for: affordable gastronomic fare

There are an impressive number of really good female chefs in Porto and every time I visit, I seem to find another. One of these is Aurora Goy, who grew up in France with a Portuguese mother from the heritage-rich region of Minho and a French father who was a chef. She is the perfect amalgamation of all these influences. Her cooking is highly creative with a bias towards plant-based dishes – her celery root tarte tatin is sensational. Dinner offers two Tasting Menus of 5 moments (€70) or 7 moments (€90), both of which are great value for this serious fare. I loved the corvina fish with asparagus, fennel and kohlrabi, which brought the promise of spring to the table and the stuffed gnocchi, butternut squash, sheep cheese, cauliflower and black garlic, which was earthy and comforting. Actually, that description could apply to the restaurant too, with its exposed stone walls and wooden tables, free of white tablecloths, yet illuminated by soft, welcoming light.

Price Range: ££
Where: Bonfim
Address: Rua de Santa Catarina 1198
Website: apegorestaurante.com
Should I book? Yes

Yakuza by Olivier

Best Porto restaurant for: East meets West

When you want a break from exploring the wonders of the Portuguese kitchen, this is where you should head for the best from the East. There are other Japanese restaurants in Porto, but I love how Yakuza blends Mediterranean elements. It is theatrical here too, from the Japanese armour on the walls to the serving of dishes of sushi and sashimi with smoke and mirrors. Signature dishes include nigiri with bone marrow and Dijon mustard or bluefin tartare with caviar and truffle. Comfort eaters will be satisfied by Wagyu hamburgers and fish tacos with guacamole, but it is worth stepping out of your comfort zone to try nigiri of Portuguese razor clams, served here with crispy rice and Japanese chimichurri. My favourite dish is the Hot Yakuza of salmon, cream cheese and teriyaki, but apart from the food, the reason I keep going back is for the wine list. Last time I was there, they had VZ Douro white wine by the glass. A rare treat.

Price Range: ££
Where: Baixa
Address: Avenue dos Aliados 151
Website: yakuza.com
Should I book? Yes

Dining and Cooking