Italian restaurants may be ubiquitous in the state, but there are places that distinguish themselves among the heap. Michael Coastal Italian Grille is in that category. After earning his way through the Philadelphia restaurant scene, chef/owner Michael DeLone brought his craft 15 miles away to Collingswood, where southern Italian dishes showcase the bounty of the region.
“We do traditional Italian,” says general manager Anthony Masapollo. “We feature more seafood, southern Italian, but we do dishes from all over, but authentic.”
Tucked along Haddon Avenue in Collingswood, Michael makes a polished and welcoming first impression. Wood floors, crisp white tablecloths and tall ladderback chairs create an intimate space with a date-night vibe. With no reservation and closing time less than an hour away, we were seated with enthusiasm and encouraged not to rush.
Such hospitality is foundational here. “This is a family affair,” says Masapollo. He and DeLone are married to sisters, and the foursome have worked together in different kitchens for more than 25 years. The warmth came through as we sipped the wine we brought and ordered unhurriedly.
DeLone, who is from Abruzzo, Italy, changes the menu seasonally, letting it evolve to incorporate seasonal finds into new dishes. “Michael is always trying to get better, always trying something new,” says Masapollo, who is from Naples, another region that inspires the restaurant’s dishes.
This spring, the burrata-and-strawberry salad exemplified the emphasis on fresh ingredients, with a pile of fresh arugula, its pepperiness balanced by a honey-balsamic dressing and sprinkling of pistachios. It’s a dish that comes together on the plate with unexpected brightness. Another starter, simply called “carrots,” outdid its no-frills name. Whipped gorgonzola, spicy nuts and drizzled honey worked together for savory, sweet bites with crunch.
The emphasis at Michael is on authenticity, which shines through in dishes like the head-on boneless branzino, served in a bath of tomato vinaigrette. The fresh-from-the-ocean sweetness doesn’t compete with the dressing, complementing the flavor without covering it.
Of course there is pasta, house made and topped, but not smothered with, sauces. “Authentic here means more constructed dishes that are not over-sauced,” Masapollo points out. “It’s more about letting the fresh, quality ingredients do the work.” The menu forays into northern Italy for dishes like the white-and-black truffle cream sauce over pillowy gnocchi, ribboned with prosciutto cotto. Even the red sauce gets a taste of the coast in spaghetti and blue crab with Sunday gravy.
The staff didn’t have to wait long for us to finish our meal. It was seamlessly delicious, and we wasted no time with it.
Dining and Cooking