Cooking demonstration and tasting with Chef Roy Brett from Scotland at Auld Alliance
photo by Ann Yungmeyer
Aging beef and fresh local produce on display at Auld Alliance
photo by Ann Yungmeyer
An Auld Alliance favorite: Foie Gras & Haggis
photo by Ann Yungmeyer
The new Tasting Room offers guided sampling of premium whiskies, gin and wines
photo by Ann Yungmeyer
A selection of favorite French and Scottish desserts
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On the breezy terrace of Auld Alliance Restaurant in the Cloudland Hotel at McLemore, a small crowd gathers around Chef Roy Brett of the famous Ondine Oyster & Grill in St. Andrews, Scotland, as he cooks up a platter of deep-fried buffalo oysters. We watch the sizzling oysters in bubbly oil while Chef meticulously prepares the half-shells with a creamy dressing. He then dips the perfectly golden-brown oysters in firecracker sauce before placing them in individual shells. Garnished with chives, the platter is now offered for our approval. I follow others in oyster protocol, tilting shell to lips to inhale the warm crispy texture all at once. It explodes in fiery, succulent flavors, and the charismatic chef smiles at our collective lip-smacking response.
Brett was one of three visiting Scottish chefs at McLemore’s signature restaurant demonstrating their prowess with delicacies from a new menu they designed in collaboration with Auld Alliance Chef de Cuisine, Christopher Cofino. All trained in French culinary arts, the three acclaimed chefs expanded upon the restaurant concept of blending Scottish and French cuisine, creating one-of-a-kind dishes and pairings aimed at elevating the dining experience.
Hearty Scottish meets sophisticated French cuisine
Auld Alliance is touted as the only Scottish-French restaurant outside of Scotland, so one may wonder how the unusual cuisine came to be in Rising Fawn, Georgia. To share a little background, Auld Alliance was named for the historic political alliance of 1295 between France and Scotland, a military pact established to counter English aggression. Over time, the alliance fostered a cultural exchange and crossover of culinary influences, punctuated by the Scots’ affinity for French wines. The restaurant name and culinary theme tie in to both the cultural connection between the two nations and the Scottish heritage of the north Georgia mountain region.
The dining concept originated with Euen McGlashan, CEO of Valor Hospitality, a key management partner for Cloudland at McLemore. A proud Scot, McGlashan was drawn to the history of the area and the landscape, fondly recalling, “it feels a wee bit like home away from home.” He was inspired to bring his heritage and authenticity to McLemore, adding nuanced touches of Scotland throughout the resort – from tabletop thistle arrangements and tartan accents to the warm ambience and authentic cuisine at Auld Alliance.
Celebrating a “new chapter” at Auld Alliance, McGlashan was instrumental in bringing in the Scottish chefs, whom he has worked with as longtime friends and associates in hospitality. The new menu reflects each chef’s interpretation of Scottish cuisine expressed with French culinary technique.
Creative and sensory selections
Tempting the taste-buds near the restaurant entrance, there is a refrigerated display of bone-in Ribeye steaks hanging to dry-age before being washed in Laphroaig Malt and grilled at the hearth. Another display shows a colorful arrangement of fresh farm produce that tells the story of local provenance. First glance at Auld Alliance’s extensive menu and you’ll likely have questions for your server and hear a story of flavor profiles and food traditions.
The menu features classic favorites such as Filet Mignon with truffle and Madeira jus, as well as unexpectedly delicious combinations including the must-try Fois Gras and Haggis, wrapped in pastry and served with Georgia peach and pecan sauce. (Admittedly, the latter was the last thing in the world I would order and the best new discovery ever tasted!) Chef Brett’s Buffalo Oysters are a tantalizing starter, as is another seafood standout, Lump Crab with Buttered Crumpet. A winning side dish for most whimsical name is Rumbledethumps – a traditional Scottish comfort food made with potatoes, cabbage and onion.
Desserts typically include something chocolate, a seasonal specialty such as the raspberry and meringue Cranachan Parfait, and a Highlands favorite – Sticky Toffee Madeleines. Artisanal cocktails and mocktails and a highly curated list of wines and spirits complement the meal.
A gastronomic journey
Auld Alliance recently opened The Tasting Room to offer guided experiences for sampling premium whiskies, gins, wines and Champagnes. Guests can learn about food pairings that may include the perfect wine or even a wee dram!
The dining experience is a journey that invites curiosity, conversation and broadening the palate. Stories of the simplest foods may unfold, as I found when I asked, “what are Auld Fries?” Our server explained the three-day process which entails boiling hand-cut potatoes, freezing and frying them repeatedly, and finally seasoning with rosemary and sea salt for serving. The method, he said, “is to ensure the best flavor and texture – crispy and golden on the outside, pillowy soft inside.”
The menu imparts a bit of culinary knowledge with a glossary of terms and historical perspective on how the French influenced Scottish cuisine. Also interesting, the menu identifies regional producers, dairies and farms in Georgia and Tennessee from which the restaurant sources ingredients.
Teaming up with the Scottish chefs provided an opportunity for Auld Alliance to spotlight the authenticity and sense of place that defines its cuisine. Chef Cofino explained that the approach was not to reinvent, but to refine an already established identity. He adds, “We focused on technique, clarity of flavor, and sourcing the best ingredients we can find. Working with local farms and purveyors, we’ve built a menu that reflects both Scottish and French culinary traditions while celebrating the richness of this region.”
Dining and Cooking