Copps Island Oyster Shack is a collaboration between two Connecticut culinary icons that offers elite seafood items like lobster rolls, oysters and more in casual outdoor waterside settings. It has two waterside locations. One in Stratford and the other in Norwalk near Calf Pasture Beach.
I tried the Stratford location and though its prices are high for the oyster shack setting, the quality more than makes up for it, and this is a destination spot that offers a quintessential taste of summer in Connecticut.
The seasonal spot opened in Stratford in 2022. For those not in the know, Copps Island Oyster Farm, is a beloved Connecticut oyster farm, owned be the Bloom family who have been providing acclaimed oysters in the region for four generations. The family helped popularize blue point oysters, contributing to the fame of shelled offerings from Connecticut and nearby waters. For the oyster shacks, the Blooms have joined forces with Chef Matt Storch. Another acclaimed name in Connecticut food, Storch is the owner of Match Restaurant in South Norwalk, Match Burger Lobster and Saugatuck Provisions in Westport. He also won on the Food Network show “Chopped” in 2018.
One of the goals of the Copps Island Oyster Shack concept is to showcase oysters from the Copps Island Oyster Farm. The eatery accomplishes this with a mix of iced, raw, fried and otherwise cooked oysters as well oyster sandwiches. But the menu extends well beyond these offerings and also includes lobster rolls, burgers, hot dogs and a chicken sandwich, for those who aren’t in the mood for seafood of any kind.
Given Copps Island Oyster Shack’s owners and what I’d heard about the food here, I was expecting a lot during my visit and these high expectations were more than met. The Copps casino oysters with bacon, jalapeño and breadcrumbs were smoky, rich and let you taste the shellfish without it overpowering the dish. Meanwhile, the hot butter lobster roll was so good and decadent that I couldn’t stop thinking about it and didn’t mind paying $36 for it, just note that price varies based on the price of lobster on the day of your visit. The two sides I tried, fries and buttery corn on the cob were both excellent. The fries were steak fries, which can be hard to do well, but were nailed here, and the corn was simple but one of the best versions of this dish, I’ve ever had out.
Of course, whatever you order is enhanced by the ambiance. The Stratford outpost is located in Brown’s Marina, with almost every seat oriented toward the water. I never got tired of seeing boats rock back and forth on the water while enjoying summer fare. I’m hoping to get back to the Stratford location before the season ends and would also love to stop by the outpost at Calf Pasture Beach in Norwalk. Copps Island Oyster Shack is sharing sea-to-table seafood that’s made with a lot of skill and care. It’s a culinary catch!
Erik Ofgang shares his opinions on food and drink in the state. He is the co-author of “The Good Vices” and has written for The Washington Post, The Atlantic, Smithsonian, Forbes and other publications. He pens a Connecticut Magazine column titled “Craft Cruising” about the state’s beverage scene.
Dining and Cooking