A former Plaza Azteca spot on Laskin Road about 10 minutes from the Oceanfront has been revived as Condesa, serving food inspired by Mexico City.
“We decided to tear it down and start from the beginning,” said Paola Leon, an executive whose family owns the Plaza Azteca restaurant chain.
The sleek two-story building adds an upscale vibe beyond the usual family establishment. Warm tones, cushioned seats and light fixtures dangling with tassels set the mood for a relaxing breakfast or date night. Upstairs features bar seating and music — not available during the day — for those who want something upbeat.
Make a note that the restaurant, in Virginia Beach, offers brunch and lunch and then closes for two hours before reopening for dinner.
I visited at 10 a.m. on a Tuesday. The menu included many appetizing items such as the Mexican Benedict, abuela’s chilaquiles, bacon burrito, breakfast tacos, and lemon loaf pancakes. Sorry, no Virginia white sauce — Miracle Whip with a blend of spices — here. I couldn’t decide, so the waitstaff recommended some of the popular dishes. I chose accordingly.
The hash bowl, potatoes and grilled steak topped with fried eggs and avocado, is a filling savory option. (Stephen M. Katz/The Virginian-Pilot)
The hearty hash bowl lived up to its endorsement. The potatoes were topped with my choice of over-easy fried eggs, which were overdone. Still, the Parmesan cream sauce, Chihuahua cheese, soft and creamy avocado, and tender grilled steak didn’t let me down. Each forkful delivered savory goodness.
The ranchero omelet, served with potatoes, also got my nod of approval. It included fluffy eggs, tasty Mexican chorizo, fresh spinach, mushrooms, roasted peppers and Chihuahua cheese.
I saved room for a sweet creation, also my favorite bite. The Southern banana crepe was filled with banana pudding and topped with Nilla wafers, fried bananas, toffee bits and whipped cream. It included all the elements I love: cool, creamy, crunchy and caramelized with a little warmth. Decadent.
A dinner option at Condesa is the passion fruit ceviche: shrimp, marinade, roasted corn and shredded jicama, with fried plantains. (Stephen M. Katz/The Virginian-Pilot)
I got an opportunity to sample two items from the dinner menu before I left. The passion fruit ceviche consisted of shrimp, passion fruit leche de tigre (marinade), roasted corn and shredded jicama, with fried plantains on the side — a tropical paradise on a plate with textures of land and sea. The marinade alone was light, refreshing and drink worthy. Highly recommend.
The molotes de plátano didn’t strike my fancy as much, but they were OK. Three round balls of crispy, fried plantain molotes stuffed with queso fresco and black beans worked well together as ingredients. However, the beans tasted bland and a little dry. I dipped the balls in the Oaxacan black mole underneath. It leaned more on the burnt bitter side rather than sweet bitter, which I’m used to. I wasn’t a fan.
Overall, this dining experience broadened my palate for Mexican foods. I plan to return.
Rekaya Gibson, 757-295-8809, rekaya.gibson@virginiamedia.com
If you go
Where: 1824 Laskin Road, Virginia Beach
Hours: 10 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. brunch Monday through Sunday; 4:30 to 10 p.m. dinner Monday through Saturday, 4:30 to 9 p.m. Sunday
Prices: $12 to $21 for brunch entrees
Details: condesacocinamexicana.com, 757-904-5081
Dining and Cooking