Mitsuharu ‘Micha’ Tsumura has barely been in Mumbai for a few hours when we meet, having arrived from Peru that very morning, but there is little evidence of a man who has just endured a long-haul flight. At 11am, he had already been to the gym; he has now freshened up, attended a hectic welcome lunch, may or may not have taken a power nap and is back at work, preparing for the two-night dinner that will mark Maido’s first Indian appearance at The St Regis Mumbai, as part of Masters of Marriott Bonvoy and Culinary Culture, in association with American Express. There is something incredulous and almost comic about the velocity of it all. Most people would be battling jet lag; Tsumura appears to have negotiated with it and come out on top. Much like how he’s done with his career.

It is perhaps the most revealing introduction to a master chef who, even after taking Maido to the summit of global gastronomy, seems constitutionally incapable of standing still.

In June 2025, the retaurant, known for its refreshing flavours of Nikkei cuisine, was named No 1 on The World’s 50 Best Restaurants list. For most chefs, the distinction might represent a moment to pause and savour the achievement. “Some people thought, okay, so we made it, and we’re going to take it easy,” he says. “But it was the total opposite.” The team, he says, is “more motivated than ever.”

Dining and Cooking