Decades before Ounjit Henprasert helped feed Denver’s appetite for Thai food, she was waking early to pound ingredients, chop meat, and package dry goods for her family’s general store in a small town in Kanchanaburi, a province in western Thailand.
Henprasert’s parents kept the family’s four children busy in both the shop and the kitchen. Meals were communal, and one dish reliably drew the children to the table: fried pork ribs seasoned with the sweet-and-salty flavors they loved, served with plain rice.
“When I eat this, I picture my siblings sitting and eating, fighting over the bones,” Henprasert said. “It brings back old memories.”
Today, Henprasert is the owner of Daughter Thai Kitchen & Bar and Insee Father Noodle House, next door to each other at 1700 Platte St. in Denver. At Daughter Thai, that childhood meal evolved into Bangkok Ribs, a dish rooted in her family’s history that lives on the menu alongside khao soi (curry noodle soup), beef panang curry and other items. (See the recipe below.)
Henprasert’s mother created the rib recipe, a traditional Thai specialty called kraduk moo tod. She seasoned the bone-in pork with fish sauce and sugar, relying on taste and experience to create the sweet-and-salty combination her children adored. While her mother most often prepared the dish, Henprasert remembers it was most delicious when her father was behind the stove.
“My dad cooked it better than my mom because he wasn’t in a hurry,” she said. “He was more meticulous.”
The Bangkok Ribs at Daughter Thai Kitchen & Bar, 1700 Platte St., in Denver. (Provided by Daughter Thai)
Henprasert’s father commanded the kitchen with the same patience and precision he demanded in every part of family life. After his death at age 79 in late July, Henprasert is sharing the recipe as a window into the home that shaped her — and the man whose name and portrait now preside over Insee Father Noodle House.
The ribs Henprasert ate in Thailand were smaller and firmer than those she serves at Daughter Thai today. The children would pull and suck the meat from the bones as they ate them with rice. When Henprasert began cooking the dish for diners less familiar with that style, she adjusted the preparation. She braised the ribs first, allowing the meat to soften without falling apart, then fried them briefly to create a golden exterior. A glaze of soy sauce, honey, fish sauce and black pepper completed the transformation.
The result retains the flavor Henprasert remembers while giving the ribs the tenderness many American diners expect. Customers can order the Bangkok Ribs at Daughter Thai as an appetizer or pair them with jasmine rice for a meal.
“He did everything for his family.”
Henprasert’s education in food and hospitality began when she was a young girl. Her family lived above the general store they operated, where nearly every part of daily life involved work. The shop was packed with groceries, household necessities, tools, school supplies and merchandise tied to holidays and changing seasons.
As a child, Henprasert weighed sugar, flour, rice and peanuts, divided them into smaller bags and secured each package with rubber bands to sell to customers. In the kitchen, her mother set out several mortars, cutting boards and ingredients at once so Henprasert couldn’t finish one job and escape.
She hated the chores then. But the skills she developed — working quickly, remembering details and anticipating what customers needed — eventually followed her into the restaurant business.
Her father reinforced those lessons with exacting standards. He expected the children to wake early, work efficiently and complete each task in a particular way. Even placing merchandise on a shelf could become a lesson in speed and precision. “He made everything difficult,” Henprasert said. After working for him, she added, work anywhere else in the world felt easier.
It took time for her to understand that his strictness was an expression of devotion. While her father was frugal and demanding, he worked continuously to provide stability for his wife and four children. “He loved his family very much, but he loved in a strict kind of way,” Henprasert said. “He did everything for his family. He never left my mother, even for one night.”
Honesty was equally central to his character. Near the end of his life, his message to his daughter remained the same one he had emphasized for years: “Don’t lie. You must be honest.”
Henprasert carried those lessons to Denver, where she opened Daughter Thai in 2019. The restaurant’s name reflects her place in the family story, while dishes such as Bangkok Ribs bring pieces of her childhood to its menu.
Six years later, Henprasert fulfilled a long-held dream of owning a noodle shop that honored her family’s beloved patriarch. Insee opened next door in 2025, creating a symbolic connection between daughter and father. She designed the restaurant to evoke her father’s home in Thailand, filling it with personal details–including his portrait.
The restaurant preserves his memory in ways that extend beyond its name and decor. Henprasert sees his influence in her attention to detail, her relentless pace and the responsibility she feels when feeding other people.
It also shows up on plates of ribs.
Daughter Thai’s Bangkok Ribs might not be the exact version Henprasert and her siblings once gnawed from the bone, but the flavor still takes her back to the same memory of four children around a table and a family whose demanding daily work helped prepare her for a life she had not yet imagined.
By sharing the recipe, Henprasert hopes to gift Denverites a piece of her family’s table — and lets one of its memories live on in kitchens beyond her own.
Bangkok Ribs
All ingredients are available at international markets such as H Mart and Great Wall Supermarket. For a richer, more caramelized flavor, substitute palm sugar for granulated sugar. Serve the ribs with steamed jasmine rice, just as Ounjit Henprasert’s family enjoyed them at home.
Serves: 4–6
Prep Time: 20 minutes
Cook Time: About 2½ hours
Ingredients
For the Braised Pork Ribs:
About 3 quarts water
2 pounds pork ribs, cut into individual ribs and patted dry
¼ cup soy sauce
¼ cup dark soy sauce
¼ cup sweet soy sauce
¼ cup granulated sugar
10 to 12 garlic cloves
1 bunch of cilantro stems (about 25 to 35)
For the Bangkok Rib Glaze and Garnish:
½ cup seasoned soy sauce (like Golden Mountain brand)
¼ cup granulated sugar
¼ cup honey
1 teaspoon ground black pepper
1 teaspoon premium fish sauce
2 tablespoons water
Sliced green onions
Toasted white sesame seeds
Cucumber slices (optional)
Instructions
Prepare the pork ribs: Bring about 3 quarts of water to a boil on medium-high heat in a large pot. Add the pork ribs and skim off any foam that rises to the surface. Boil for about 30 minutes, then add soy sauce, dark soy sauce, sweet soy sauce, sugar, garlic cloves and cilantro stems. Reduce to a gentle simmer and continue cooking for 1½ hours, or until the meat is tender but still holds its shape. Remove the ribs from the braising liquid and transfer to a colander or paper towel-lined plate to drain.
Make the Bangkok Rib Sauce: Combine the Seasoned soy sauce, sugar, black pepper, fish sauce, and water in a small saucepan. Bring the mixture to a gentle simmer over medium-high heat, stirring until the sugar dissolves completely. Remove from the heat, then stir in the honey until fully incorporated. Set aside.
Fry the ribs: Heat about 1 to 2 inches of oil to 350°F (175°C). Fry the ribs for approximately 2 minutes per side, or until the exterior becomes lightly golden and crispy. Transfer immediately to a large mixing bowl.
Glaze: Pour the prepared Bangkok Rib Sauce over the hot fried ribs. Toss gently until every piece is evenly coated. Transfer to a serving platter. Finish with sliced green onions and toasted white sesame seeds. Serve immediately with cucumber slices, if desired.
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Dining and Cooking