Mykonos Kouzina in Norwalk caught my eye on social media. I saw videos of plates being smashed in celebration, birthday parties with champagne flying and appetizers being brought to tables with flames shooting from them like a magician’s trick. The place seemed to have a unique atmosphere — and also offered eye-catching Greek food. In this instance, social media didn’t lie: Mykonos Kouzina is a wonderful time with a fun beachy vibe. The food I had was solid, if not spectacular.
A pan-seared sole ($35) was served with caramelized onions, potatoes, and a mix of dill scallions and lemon. This was fresh and hearty, with a wonderful assortment of Mediterranean flavors. The potatoes were soft and melt-in-your-mouth. Another potato standout was the lemon potatoes ($10) with sliced and peeled spuds bathed in oil.
As mentioned previously, the setting is a strength here. Though I visited in the early evening and there was sadly no plate smashing or flaming dishes (the flames don’t work outside where I sat), I loved the atmosphere. Dark blue chairs sit against a white polished bar — and that color motif repeats throughout the restaurant giving this place a very different beach-type feel. The staff was friendly and welcoming. There is a covered patio, which is where I dined, and we were thankful for the patio’s roof when there was an unexpected sun shower. We remained completely dry and rain-free and saw a small rainbow.
Less exciting was my Gyro Carving ($30), a platter featuring carved beef and lamb with Greek salad, fries topped with feta cheese, pita and tzatziki. None of these components really stood out. The tzatziki felt under-spiced and the meats were average, while the feta cheese topping on the fries added little. Had all these ingredients (minus the fries) been served in a standard wrap, the end result may have been more than the sum of its parts, but this presentation forced each ingredient into the spotlight, which didn’t play to the food’s strengths.
I also had mixed feelings about The Evil Eye cocktail ($22). This mashup of vodka, blue curaçao, egg white and lots more, is a visual triumph. It is served in a round martini glass with a tropical light blue color and an edible evil eye floating on the surface at the center of the glass. Flavor-wise, it was more of a sweet club drink than the balanced cocktails I prefer. The price was high, especially considering there are better options elsewhere in Norwalk and nearby towns for less. This was redeemed by the mocktail Island Refresher ($10), a lime, cucumber, tonic and ginger beer concoction that was visually striking and tasted great as well.
Despite some misses, I did enjoy the experience overall. If you’re looking for a fun and unique night out, have a specific craving for something they offer, or live nearby, Mykonos Kouzina is worth a visit. I would be excited to have this type of place open up in my neighborhood.
Erik Ofgang shares his opinions on food and drink in the state. He is the co-author of “The Good Vices” and has written for The Washington Post, The Atlantic, Smithsonian, Forbes and other publications. He pens a Connecticut Magazine column titled “Craft Cruising” about the state’s beverage scene.
Dining and Cooking