Kenneth Tan is embedded in Balwyn. His first brunch spot, McKinly Eatery, recently celebrated its fourth year. Just two doors down, Tan has now opened Maneki Teishoku.
“I knew that Maneki would fill a gap for the local community: a place where families living close-by could come for an early dinner, but equally suited to those who want a night out,” says the chef-owner.
At first glance, Maneki Teishoku looks like a run-of-the-mill Japanese restaurant – but surprises lie within. Tan, a graphic designer from Malaysia who pivoted to become a chef, incorporates cross-cultural flavours into his favourite Japanese dishes.
He devised every dish on the concise one-page menu. In one column sits teishoku – set meals with rice, soup and various side dishes served on a tray, with the option of chicken, pork, beef, fish or seasonal vegetables.
The other column is populated by smaller plates, izakaya-style. “These are designed to appeal to the late-night diners who come for drinks but want some snacks,” Tan says. These also take a bold approach: you’ll find chicken satay with miso and peanut sauce; grilled octopus glazed with smoky jalapeno sauce on Japanese-style potato mash; and grilled pork belly with hints of teriyaki but also kimchi, cumin and Sichuan pepper.
In the chicken katsu curry, he blends spices, chocolate, coffee, fruit and “a heavier dose of garam masala”, drawing inspiration from his love of Indian curries in Malaysia. “I love Japanese food, but believe it or not, I have not been to Japan. So Maneki is hard to categorise. I’d say my food here is Japanese-themed but globally inspired,” he says.
Noodles are available too. One of two options is udon in creamy Hokkaido curry soup, topped with a roasted chicken leg marinated in rendang sauce. The other – a kaisen udon gratin – is a creamy baked udon with prawns and white fish, topped with cheese and furikake.
Drinks also lean creative. Bartender Hunter Tsai, formerly a barista at McKinly, created all 10 original cocktails. His menu features a map of Japan, with each drink associated with a specific region.
“I want my drinks to be a journey around Japan,” he says. “For example, when I think of Kyoto, I think of maple leaves. So I make a drink of hojicha-infused Kyoto gin, hojicha maple syrup and yuzu juice.”
Another drink, called Obuse Chestnut Harvest, combines whisky with chestnuts, yoghurt saké and jasmine tea.
The saké list, which includes pours from prestige breweries like Abe and Koueigiku, is also worth exploring. The list is curated by certified saké sommelier Momoko Imai, and is designed to ease the bar into the evening.
Maneki Teishoku & Bar
3/190 Belmore Road, Balwyn
0480 645 388
Hours
Wed & Thu 5pm–9.30pm
Fri & Sat 5pm–11.30pm
Sun 5pm–9.30pm
@maneki_au
Dining and Cooking