The influence of Almay Jordaan’s childhood in South Africa, where braai (barbeque) was a pillar of her diet, is clear on her fire-led menus. The chef runs Fitzroy North’s moody Neighbourhood Wine, plus Brunswick East’s Old Palm Liquor and Bahama Gold, with her husband, sommelier Simon Denman. Since moving to Australia from London in 2010, she’s established a strong name for her open-flame cooking. We caught up with Jordaan to find out where she’s been eating lately.
Favourite bakery
“Newly opened Vandels is in my neighbourhood. It’s become instantly busy. The only problem is that they’re closed on Mondays.”
Go-to breakfast spot
“Beautiful Jim Key in Brunswick. I don’t have time to go out to breakfast a lot, but when I do, it’s the curried soft-boiled eggs with mango chutney.”
Best place for drinks and snacks
“Bar Carnation in Carlton. Anything on the simple menu here is worth trying; the last item I had was vitello tonnato and I can’t stop thinking about it.”
Best barbeque or grill restaurant
“This was the hardest to pick – I’m very particular about steak! San Telmo, perhaps. When it comes to grill, simpler is better for me.” See Broadsheet’s guide to Melbourne’s best steak restaurants for more.
Date night recommendation
“Ishizuka in the city for really special kaiseki.”
Favourite ice-cream or gelato?
“Any of the Piccolina stores. And yes, it’s only ever pistachio or vanilla.”
Special occasion spot?
“Tedesca Osteria. We usually stay out on the Mornington Peninsula and make a weekend of it.”
Best place to eat solo
“Good Days in Brunswick for pho or, of course, their chicken rice.”
Best place to eat with a big group
“The Commercial Club Hotel in Fitzroy. There is some fantastic food coming out of that kitchen.”
Favourite dessert in Melbourne
“The chocolate dessert at Omnia. If you know, you know.”
Best place for a late-night feed?
“Since I’ve had kids I quite literally cannot stay awake past 8.30pm… But I’m awake at 6.30am every morning!”
Best banh mi
“K&H Hot Bread Bakery on Sydney Road, or Anchovy in Richmond. I’m partial to quite a bit of chilli.”
Best bread
“Akimbo in Northcote for anything, as well as Iris in Brunswick for their focaccia.”
Best coffee
“I’m a Market Lane devotee – we use it in our restaurants as well.”
Restaurant you wish would come back for a night
“Stephanie Alexander’s restaurant.”
Venue you’ve visited the most over the years
“Embla. The service and the food will always be topnotch no matter how long between visits.”
Most underrated Melbourne restaurant?
“Mary’s in Collingwood for Nigerian fare – it’s time for more people to broaden their horizons.”
Favourite regional restaurant?
“Bar Merenda. Finish with the madeleines.”
Bucket list restaurant?
“Chauncy here and Asador Etxebarri in Spain.”
Dining and Cooking