A dimly-lit parlor with mahogany-paneled walls. Tufted leather banquettes and circular tabletops clothed in white linen. Ice cold clear spirit frosting the sides of stemware. A silvery cart on wheels, overloaded with prime rib. The chariot roams the floor, leaving a plume of rich umami billowing in its wake.
The indelible charm of the Old School American Chophouse might seem forever out of reach, exclusively the domain of nostalgia – or Mad Men reruns. But it is very much alive and well inside The Driskill Grill, which opened earlier this summer inside one of Austin’s most legendary hotels. Every element of the scene described above typifies a normal night of service at the new hotspot. And it’s all overseen by the creative direction of April Bloomfield, a chef who is something of a legend in her own right.
Bloomfield’s fondness for the bygone steakhouse helped guarantee that the vibe here is a faithful recreation thereof. The meat has to be carved tableside and served with Yorkshire pudding. The shrimp cocktail is obligatory. The iceberg and bacon wedge is comically oversized. But make no mistake about it, the approach to both the food and drink is entirely modern.
The seafood tower at the Driskill Grill
And for a great example you simply need to peer up at the cocktail list – occupying the upper left quadrant of the square-foot paper menu. The section is a testament to the ambition of contemporary mixology. It is comprised of 26 tipples, each one starting with a different letter from the alphabet; none priced higher than $24 a pour.
Beyond the necessary fixtures such as the “house recipe” Driskill Martini, and the New York Sour, drinks here take a fanciful turn: the Savoy Plaza Daiquiri with Jamaican rum and apricot; or the Jimmy Roosevelt, a forgotten classic champagne cocktail bolstered by cognac and chartreuse.
Though you’ll undoubtedly discover something new amongst the breadth of offerings, they aren’t exactly novel. Each one taps some sense of 20th Century traditionalism to anchor a connection to the past. And that itself really echoes the ethos of Driskill Grill, what makes it so very special. It’s taking fondness and reverence for something in the past and shaking it up to feel fresh and relevant. A nifty balancing act and one that is clearly resonating with residents, considering the crowded nature of the room during nightly service.
The success won’t come as a surprise to locals either, given the pedigree of the restaurant group behind the project. It’s the latest addition to the ever-expanding portfolio of MML Hospitality, one of the city’s most notable F+B groups. Co-founded by Austin-native Larry McGuire, the thriving business is now investing heavily far outside his hometown.
Last year MML partnered up on a $92 million purchase of the Nine Orchard Hotel in New York’s Lower East Side. McGuire and Co. are also currently working on a $100 million historical restoration of the Mountain Chalet in downtown Aspen.
Back within Austin city limits, room rates at the Driskill Hotel are a relatively modest $295 per night. Thanks to its namesake grill, guests now have a hearty serving of prime rib and martinis waiting for them just up the stairs from the lobby. It’s an enduring pairing every bit as historic as the space itself.
AUSTIN, TX – MARCH 17: Actor Bill Murray and cellist Jan Vogler partake in a poem reading to a crowd before the “Isle of Dogs” premiere at The Driskill Hotel on March 17, 2018 in Austin, Texas. (Photo by Michael Loccisano/Getty Images for SXSW)
This article was originally published on Forbes.com
Dining and Cooking