Rather than being cooked down or presented as dried fruit, they arrived fresh, small and wonderfully juicy, their sweetness providing an unexpected contrast to the more robust flavors surrounding them. It was a clever combination, introducing quel non so che — that elusive something extra — without allowing novelty to overwhelm the dish.
Gemelli with Italian sausage, fennel pollen, grapes and rosemary, $26 (Catherine Dzilenski)
The other main course, paccheri with guanciale, tomato conserva, red onion, chili and Broncha cheese, offered a more traditional combination of rich, savory flavors. The pasta had a pleasing firmness, its generous tubes capturing the sauce. Sadly, though, the chili, which might have introduced an additional dimension to the dish, appeared to have been deployed with almost excessive caution. Whether intended to accommodate a particularly delicate palate or simply lost among the other ingredients, its presence was barely discernible.
A little more confidence with the seasoning would have elevated an otherwise thoroughly enjoyable plate of pasta. Nevertheless, both dishes demonstrated a kitchen with a firm understanding of its ingredients and, more importantly, how those ingredients should work together.
Accompanying the meal was a 2022 Brandini “Rocche del Santo” Barbera d’Alba Superiore from Piemonte, which proved an excellent choice. Bold, robust and velvety smooth, this was a red with considerable character, possessing the sort of depth that would have been equally comfortable accompanying an aged steak or a succulent lamb chop.
Paccheri with guanciale, tomato conserva, red onion, chili and Broncha, $24 (Catherine Dzilenski) Dinner and a show
Bornemann’s approach to cooking helps explain this emphasis on meat. Rather than relying exclusively on individual cuts, the kitchen works with whole animals, preparing a pig or lamb in-house and incorporating different portions into its changing selection of dishes. It’s a thoughtful approach to minimizing waste, but one that also provides considerable scope for creativity.
Dining and Cooking