Jackson and Oxford got a lot of love at the first-ever Michelin American South awards. But if you ask many Mississippi locals, some of the most soulful and celebration-worthy food can be found in Meridian (population: 33,549). There, what started in 1870 as a four-stool lunch counter serving railroad travelers has grown into a beloved Southern institution known for its historic charm, warm hospitality, and classic comfort food.
Read on to dive into Weidmann’s restaurant’s unique free appetizer; its iconic, must-order dessert; and the best savory items to order in between.
Weidmann’s Restaurant History
Weidmann’s was originally opened in 1870 by Felix Weidmann, a Swiss chef from Zurich. At the time, the tiny, four-stool restaurant was located across from the train station on Front Street. Throughout its first 50 years, Weidmann’s moved several times before finally settling at its current location in 1923—a charming two-story building with an upstairs bar and balcony dining.
Despite the fact that the dining room moved many times, the ownership remained remarkably stable. In fact, it was part of the Weidmann family until 1999, when a great-granddaughter of Felix sold it to a group of local investors. They renovated the building and reopened it with a new ownership group, then another and another, to “varying levels of success,” admits current owner Charles Frazier. He took it over in 2010 “with the aim of embracing the history and reviving the legacy of Weidmann’s.”
The menus Frazier was able to collect from over the years were invaluable during this mission. The eclectic offerings during the 1930s and ’40s were especially inspiring, he tells us.
What Makes Weidmann’s So Special
Now at Mississippi’s oldest continuously-operating restaurant, two traditions define the Weidmann’s experience, according to Frazier and countless loyal patrons. You must experience the peanut butter crock and cracker “appetizer,” as well as the legendary Black Bottom Pie that regulars swear is one of the best desserts in the South.
“During World War II, there was a butter shortage due to rationing. A guest requested butter for his crackers, and was told there was none available and suggested that we serve peanut butter instead,” Frazier says. “It became a tradition, and Henry found a local potter to make crocks to put the peanut butter in so it could be placed at every table. We have revived that tradition, and our guests love it!”
After that crowd-pleasing snack, your ultimate order at Weidmann’s includes fried green tomatoes with comeback dressing, followed by blackened redfish Hannah, topped with a spicy tomato cream sauce studded with shrimp, mushrooms, and green onions. Just be sure to save room for dessert: a slice of Black Bottom Pie.
“While this dessert wasn’t invented here, Weidmann’s certainly perfected it,” Frazier swears. “The pie became so popular with locals that the local Amtrak station soon started requesting slices for its dining carts—a great marketing tool that I’m sure helped increase the pie’s popularity and reputation.”
Weidmann’s passionate and loyal following preach the gospel of the restaurant, too. For many Meridian residents, it’s simply known as “the restaurant.”
“We enjoy many repeat visits from locals who have been dining at Weidmann’s for decades, as well as from out-of-town visitors seeking a unique dining experience. More and more travelers seem to be seeking out established restaurants in small towns. I get it: these businesses can be a barometer of the economic well-being of a community, as well as a hub for history and local culture,” Frazier says.
He’s honored to carry the Weidmann’s torch…and dish you up a slice of pie.
How To Make Black Bottom Pie the Weidmann’s Way
Frazier isn’t positive who developed the restaurant’s signature Black Bottom Pie recipe, but he does have a piece of stationery with a typewritten version of this exact formula (signed by Henry Weidmann, Felix’s grandson) from 1940.
It’s not a quick process, he acknowledges, but it’s worth every minute of effort. Two savvy ingredient substitutions make Weidmann’s Black Bottom Pie stand out from the traditional rendition:
In lieu of a chocolate cookie, pastry, or graham cracker crust, this pie starts with a warmly-spiced gingersnap crust
Rather than rum, the luscious custard filling is spiked with whiskey
The ultimate place to experience it is sitting on a stool at the Weidmann’s bar, as a tip of the cap to the decade upon decade of diners who have done the same. But if you don’t live nearby, Frazier was kind enough to dish up the restaurant’s celebrated recipe for us to recreate at home until we can savor a taste of history in real life.
Black Bottom Pie Recipe
Serves 6 to 8
Crust:
14 gingersnap cookies, crumbled (about 2 cups)
5 tablespoons melted butter
Filling:
1½ tablespoons cornstarch
8 ounces unsweetened chocolate
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
Topping:
¼ teaspoon cream of tartar
Whipped cream and unsweetened chocolate shavings, optional for garnish
Instructions:
Make the crust: In a medium bowl, combine crushed gingersnaps and melted butter. Once the cookie crumbs are evenly moistened, pat the mixture into the bottom of a 9-inch pie pan. Bake in a 350° F oven for 10 minutes. Allow to cool.
Make the filling: In a heat-safe bowl over a simmering pot of water (double boiler), slowly whisk the egg yolks into the hot milk. Cook the milk mixture in a double boiler for 20 minutes, stirring occasionally, until it coats the spoon. Transfer 1 cup of the reduced milk mixture to a small bowl. Add unsweetened chocolate and mix well as the milk cools. Add vanilla extract, then pour the mixture into the pie crust. Chill.
Make the topping: In a small bowl, whisk gelatin into the cold water. Mix in the remaining milk mixture. In a medium bowl, beat 4 egg whites with the sugar and cream of tartar. Once stiff peaks form, fold in whiskey and the thickened milk mixture. Layer this on top of the filling. Garnish with whipped cream and chocolate shavings if desired, then chill before serving.
Recipe courtesy of Weidmann’s
Read the original article on Southern Living
Dining and Cooking