Portsmouth has that rare species of dining in Hampton Roads: a soul food buffet open most every day.
Customers can find more than 30 items on the buffet at Cooper’s Restaurant and Lounge, though some dishes rotate in and out, said Rachael Copeland, who owns the restaurant with her husband, Len. Staples include smothered pork chops, sausage and gravy, and liver and onions. Baked turkey wings are also available on Sundays.
“My goal is to bring back the family dinner table, one meal at a time,” she said.
Len and Rachael Copeland own Cooper’s Restaurant and Lounge. “My goal is to bring back the family dinner table, one meal at a time,” she says. (Stephen M. Katz/The Virginian-Pilot)
The restaurant has plenty of seating to do just that. Prices are reasonable, and the selection includes drinks and desserts such as pound cake, pies and cookies. Cooper’s, near the intersection of High Street and London Boulevard, opened under new management in February 2020.
I like buffets because of their convenience. Every time I visit one, I can’t help but think about an episode from the TV show “Will & Grace.” Grace insists on starting with the most expensive items on the buffet and saving foods such as green salad until the end.
I chose a different method this time. Everything looked appetizing: baked chicken, goulash, green beans, cabbage, rice and more. I piled a plate with my favorite proteins and side dishes. The eating order commenced the same way.
The fried whiting with collard greens and candied yams. (Stephen M. Katz/The Virginian-Pilot)
The fried chicken was crispy and seasoned, but it wasn’t hot. I don’t mind if it’s room temperature or cold — don’t judge me. However, lukewarm wasn’t my expectation. I would try it again because the flavor and texture were there.
The fresh warmth of the golden fried whiting kept me interested and delighted because of its delicate, balanced ratio of flesh to breading.
Next, the pigs’ feet — which I hadn’t eaten in more than 40 years — brought back memories of growing up in Fort Wayne, Indiana. Tender, fatty pieces soaked up tasty acidic juices that made me miss dining with my grandmother.
The pigs’ feet at Cooper’s brought our reviewer memories of dinners with her grandmother in Indiana. (Stephen M. Katz/The Virginian-Pilot)
The swine paired well with baked macaroni and cheese. A few dark cheesy bits mixed with creamy coated pasta always feels comforting.
The candied yams — a highly guarded secret recipe — had the same effect. Their sweetness cut the umami of the other foods, creating a wonderful bite with a hint of spice.
My collard greens tasted delicious too. They weren’t under- or overly cooked, which allowed the vegetable to shine. They had a pleasant earthy mouthfeel that complemented my piece of sweet, buttery cornbread.
Fixing up the candied yams, made from scratch daily at Cooper’s in Portsmouth. (Stephen M. Katz/The Virginian-Pilot)
I didn’t get anything from the cold station, which consisted of items such as potato salad, macaroni salad and fruit. It wasn’t a priority, nor did I pay much attention to it. Grace would’ve been proud.
I nibbled on a slice of moist, cinnamon-swirled pound cake before calling it quits.
But I still left with my soul full — right on time for National Soul Food Month (June).
The Copelands plan to open a second location for more people to experience the nostalgia of Sunday dinners at Grandmother’s house. Rachael said they’ll rely on their faith to determine where.
Rekaya Gibson, 757-295-8809, rekaya.gibson@virginiamedia.com
If you go
Where: 3112 High St., Portsmouth
Hours: 11 a.m. to 7 p.m. Tuesday through Friday, noon to 7 p.m. Saturday and Sunday, closed Monday
Prices: $19.50 weekday, $22.50 weekend, $13.50 children 7 to 13, $6.50 children 4 to 6, free for children 3 and under, $16.50 older adults (dine-in only, 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. Tuesday through Friday). $10.99 per pound carryout.
Details: cooperssoulfoodheaven.com; 833-566-5674
Dessert time. (Stephen M. Katz/The Virginian-Pilot)
Dining and Cooking