Thali by Chef Prasad, the newly reopened Indian restaurant in New Canaan, is designed for culinary excellence. It achieves that goal. On a recent visit, I fell in love with the food, beverage program and elegant modern space.
The first thing that impressed me was that space. With soft lighting, a wood-paneled ceiling, a striking bar area and an open kitchen, it had something about it that reminded me of the classic dining room on a luxury cruise liner from a bygone age. It’s truly a standout dining space.
The Chili Chili Bang Bang from Thali in New Canaan. (Erik Ofgang/For Hearst CT Media )
Next to win me over was the drinks. The Chili Chili Bang Bang was a tequila cocktail with a spicy cold foam head that was not only visually appealing but added unique flavor. You tasted the spice more on the front end but less on the finish, which was perfect, allowing it to add flavor without any burn on the aftertaste. This is a top-line beverage that justifies its $22 price. If you’re going to pay more than $22 for a cocktail it should be one that tastes this good. Also great was the non-alcoholic Mango Lassi, an Indian yogurt and mango drink that was rich and refreshing on a hot late summer’s evening.
Chef Prasad opened Thali in New Canaan. (Erik Ofgang/For Hearst CT Media )
On the food side, the kitchen is run by its namesake, Chef Prasad Chirnomula, who goes by Chef Prasad. Chirnomula grew up in Hyderabad, India, and immigrated to the United States in the 1980s. He first opened Thali in 2000 and began making a name for himself, opening other since-closed Thali locations across the state. One of these earned an “excellent” designation from a review in The New York Times. He appeared on the Food Network and received invitations to the James Beard House. He was also just honored by the Consulate General of India for his contributions in bringing Indian cuisine and culture to the United States. Prior to reopening Thali, he had previously operated Chef Prasad Indian Cuisine at the New Canaan location now home to Thali.
After operating various restaurants in New Canaan over the years, he opened Thali with a new look and vibe this summer. At the same location, he also hosts a popular tasting series in which he collaborates with top chefs throughout the state.
A dish from Thali in New Canaan. (Erik Ofgang/For Hearst CT Media )
The vegetarian tasting platter from Thali in New Canaan. (Erik Ofgang/For Hearst CT Media )
The new restaurant does not disappoint. The 48-hour butter chicken is a showstopper with super tender and delicious chicken that bursts with velvety butter flavor. I had never had Chef Prasad’s version of this dish before, but it is one of his signature offerings, and it’s clear why.
Because there’s a lot to try here, I loved that Thali’s menu features two tasting platters: a vegetarian or meat platter. We went with the vegetarian platter. This costs $55 but comes with quite a lot of food and could probably serve as a meal in and of itself for two people. The warm naan was excellent, as was the crispy okra, but the star was the ghee-roasted potato, which was rich and savory.
Chef Prasad opened Thali in New Canaan. (Erik Ofgang/For Hearst CT Media )
If I had one small regret, it’s that nothing I ordered had any real spicy kick, but I plan to rectify that on a return visit, and, yes, this is a place I can’t wait to get back to.
Thali
62 Main St, New Canaan
(203) 242-0200
thali.com
Erik Ofgang shares his opinions on food and drink in the state. He is the co-author of “The Good Vices” and has written for The Washington Post, The Atlantic, Smithsonian, Forbes and other publications. He pens a Connecticut Magazine column titled “Craft Cruising” about the state’s beverage scene.
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This article originally published at Restaurant review: CT chef’s revived Indian restaurant is one you’ll want to return to.
Dining and Cooking