I traveled nearly 40 miles to try the Lantern in York County. Now, I wish I lived closer.
My caviar fries — the day’s special — were dressed to impress. The golden potatoes were covered in onion creme fraiche, topped with black and orange fish eggs and garnished with chives. My sample turned into forkfuls that got better over time like a fine wine. Bursts of salt, a hint of sweetness and plenty of creaminess created sinfully delectable spuds without their being soggy.
I’ve convinced myself that a copycat version prepared at home will suffice, but who am I kidding? This dish alone is worth another trip.
The coffee lounge and restaurant opened in September in the former Jimmy da Greek’s Deli, in Kiln Creek Center about three minutes from the Newport News line on U.S. 17.
Lantern’s owner and executive chef, Micah French. She wants people to have a place that welcomes everyone, and says dining out need not have alcohol to work well. (Stephen M. Katz/The Virginian-Pilot)
Micah French, the owner and executive chef, said a dual concept allows her to have a space that’s inclusive for everyone.
The lounge — open mornings and early afternoons — sells coffee drinks such as Biscoff espresso and cornbread lattes. Customers can pair them with baked goods such as cinnamon rolls, muffins and a lemon poppy loaf with cream cheese and candied lemon slices on top, prepared by pastry chef Brittany Whitmire.
In the evening, the restaurant offers a seasonal menu that showcases the chef’s finesse in combining flavors that work. Her signature dish is the grilled prawns over a sweet Thai curry with a crunchy coconut top that’s served with Carolina gold rice.
This modern-looking spot also features a nonalcoholic bar program run by Kelly Kaye, the general manager and mixologist.
French, a 2020 graduate of the Culinary Institute of Virginia in Newport News, believes fine dining and regular dining don’t have to involve alcohol.
“Food and nonalcoholic pairings can be a thing,” she said.
She also champions the notion because she’s been sober for three years. She said her debut restaurant gives her and everyone else a sense of belonging where they can thrive.
My husband — a nondrinker — loved seeing the crafty mocktail list during our evening visit. We opted for the refreshing house-made lemonade even though the spirit-free New Fashioned sounded as appealing to me as the original.
The barbecue carrots at Lantern, in York County at Kiln Creek Center. (Stephen M. Katz/The Virginian-Pilot)
The barbecue carrots also tickled my fancy. They sat in thick Carolina gold sauce on the plate and were topped with sweet corn crema and a peanut cornbread crumble, working together in harmony. A smoky char finished the bold and delightful notes. This dish really got a hold on me.
Lantern’s duck wings. (Stephen M. Katz/The Virginian-Pilot)
The duck wings didn’t have a viselike grip, but they were approaching a hug. I liked the balance of hot and sweet from the Fresno hot honey. My greedy self wished they were meatier and not as tough, which is next to impossible for this protein.
The crabcakes, however, were hearty. They also came with crispy house-made potato chips on the side. Two thick patties sat in a tasty broth with kernels of corn and sliced cherry tomatoes. French said it was her take on a Lowcountry boil.
I’m not a fan of crab, but I could eat this again if it had less salt. I aborted my mission after a few bites. My husband loved the coastal favorite and wouldn’t change a thing.
We skipped dessert but made a mental note to get the popular toasted strawberry verrine next time. Whitmire prepares this layered dessert with strawberry curd, streusel and fresh strawberries topped with a toasted meringue.
I’m jealous York County has a new fine dining restaurant, but I’m happy it shines a light on the Peninsula.
Rekaya Gibson, 757-295-8809, rekaya.gibson@virginiamedia.com
If you go
Where: 1215 George Washington Memorial Highway, York County
Hours: Coffee lounge 8 a.m. to 2 p.m. Monday through Friday; dinner 5-10 p.m. Thursday, Friday and Saturday, 5-9 p.m. Sunday
Prices: $10 to $95 bites, $16 to $21 plates, $21 to $52 supper
Details: lanternyorktown.com, 757-598-7253
Dining and Cooking