Photograph by Evy Mages.
There are two main strains of Chicago pizza: saucy, cheesy deep-dish and less hyped—and often better—tavern pies, which have super-thin crusts cut into snacky, cocktail-napkin-size squares. Until recently, you had to work hard to find either one around here, but this summer a few newcomers came to town. Here’s where to sample both styles.
The Deep-Dish
The Chicago Chain
Giordano’s
Photograph courtesy of Giordano’s.
More than a half century ago, Giordano’s opened its first pizza shop on Chicago’s South Side. Now there are more than 50 locations around the country—and the latest is a five-month-old dining room near the White House. The spare exposed-brick space slings both styles of pizza, but the gooey deep-dish pan pies are what you want. (Tavern versions taste like expensive Celeste knockoffs.)
The Pizza Artist
Della Barba
Photograph by Evy Mages.
Lawyer turned pizza obsessive Joey Barber takes pride in serving several types of pie at his Capitol Hill shop, including New York, Detroit, and Chicago deep-dish. The latter style isn’t known for having a memorable crust, but Barber’s buttery, cornmeal-heavy version is terrific. Even better: You can get your ultra-cheesy pizza in both regular and miniature sizes. (Few pizzas lose their charm in the fridge more than deep-dish.)
The Tavern Style
The Instant Hot Spot
La Merna
Photograph by Brad Bobrow.
This snug Dupont tavern opened in August and quickly became one of DC’s toughest reservations. It’s worth the hassle. Giant, crunchy tavern pies are destination-worthy—go for the Chicago Classic, loaded with an unexpectedly fiery mix of crumbly Italian sausage and giardiniera. Plus, the space is packed with old-school Midwestern character: burgundy-leather booths, knotty-wood-paneled walls, and a chalkboard where you sign up to buy shots for other customers.
The Cheffy Pub
The Commodore
Photograph of The Commodore by flipshot.
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220 N. Lee St., Alexandria
Earlier this year, this popular Dupont bar got an Old Town spinoff, and it has one big advantage over the original: chef Steve Kim’s lineup of tavern pies. The cracker-like crusts are made from two-day-fermented dough and hold up to a bevy of toppings, whether sausage, peppers, olives, and onions or burrata, mushrooms, and Gruyère.
Executive Food Editor/Critic
Ann Limpert joined Washingtonian in late 2003. She was previously an editorial assistant at Entertainment Weekly and a cook in New York restaurant kitchens, and she is a graduate of the Institute of Culinary Education. She lives in Petworth.
Dining and Cooking