And while I didn’t know any of these things the day I first dined in that light-filled Kansas City café, I swear that I felt this deep familial consonance in some ineffable way—the whole place vibrated with it.
The story of Baba’s Pantry is a story about family. Every aspect of the restaurant, from the signature sauces on the menu to the sun-faded photos on the walls, speaks to their connection and shared history. I spoke with Baba Kamal and his sons Kamal and Omar—on, most appropriately, Father’s Day—to learn more about the restaurant’s backstory.
From left to right: Omar Kamal, Yahia Kamal and Kamal Kamal.Photograph by Guang Xu
Kamal Kamal: When I heard my dad wanted to start a restaurant, I was honestly concerned. Money was a big part of it—I was in New York and had lost my job, like so many people, because of COVID— but we started a GoFundMe [for the restaurant], and it was really successful. My dad has deep roots in the community in Kansas City, and I was amazed by how supportive my and Omar’s friends were too. But even before that, I remember telling my dad explicitly, “We have to stand out, be unique, and celebrate ourselves.” Once my dad agreed to that, my hesitation disappeared.
Baba Kamal: It was like a redemption for me. I have had a lot of food ventures, but I had partners, and when you have partners, you have different limitations. With family, we don’t have those same restrictions; we all have the same interests. That freedom gave us—Omar, Kamal, and me—the momentum to build this.
Dining and Cooking