Texas is barbecue country. Smoky pork ribs, succulent beef brisket and plump sausage links can be found all over the state. But with so many barbecue joints, what makes one stand out?
For Goldee’s Bar-B•Q, which recently earned Fort Worth’s first MICHELIN Star, it’s all about the process.
The giant smokers at Goldee’s. © Will Milne/Goldee’s Barbecue
“It comes down to constantly paying attention to the details in everything we do,” says Lane Milne, co-founder of the Fort Worth spot. “Our cooks change [their roles] every day depending on what we’re working with, whether it’s the trim, wood, weather or the beef itself. We’re always adjusting to what we’re given.”
Located on a rural stretch on the southern outskirts of Fort Worth, Goldee’s is very much a group effort. The five original founders — Jalen Heard, Lane Milne, Jonny White, Dylan Lane and Nupohn Inthanousay — were elementary and high school friends in nearby Arlington who once played in a band and even shared a house. Their love of barbecue first took root in Austin, where one by one they fell into it, working at various spots including Micklethwait Craft Meats, la Barbecue, Truth BBQ and Franklin Barbecue.
“We loved that barbecue was such a Texas-specific cuisine,” says Milne. “We were fascinated by the history behind the traditions and how much the cooking could change from day to day based on the conditions. It was something we all wanted to pursue.”
The group opened Goldee’s in early 2020, combining classic Texas barbecue with new-wave ideas and techniques. Drawing on the founders’ different racial and cultural backgrounds, the menu is constantly evolving.
Lamb ribs and Lao sausages. © Will Milne/Goldee’s Barbecue
“Our goal is for the whole plate to be harmonious and balanced. But if you’re in Texas, you can’t skip the brisket, ribs and sausage,” says Milne. “Our lamb ribs, Lao sausage, pork belly and tandoori turkey are some of our unique twists on the menu right now. We also rotate in old-school, Central Texas-inspired direct-heat chicken.”
Those cultural influences show up throughout the menu. The Lao sausage, served with sticky rice, draws on Inthanousay’s Laotian heritage, while the lamb ribs take inspiration from Sichuan and Pakistani cooking. Other dishes might include Carolina-inspired pulled pork tossed in a vinegar sauce based on nam tok, a tangy Thai dressing, or beef cheek nihari, a slow-cooked Indian stew. Peri-peri chicken, a spicy dish with Portuguese African roots, and mango sticky rice have also made appearances.
Every item on the tray at Goldee’s is made by hand, from the white bread and pickles to the barbecue sauce and potato salad. The cooks make a point of using as much of each ingredient as possible.
“I think barbecue has always been about not wasting, whether that’s the German meat market traditions of sausage making, utilizing all the bread ends into bread pudding, or [the way we make] our South Carolina-inspired pork hash,” says Milne.
Every item on the tray at Goldee’s is made by hand, from the white bread and pickles to the barbecue sauce and potato salad. © Will Milne/Goldee’s Barbecue
The side dishes are equally noteworthy. A slaw of kale, cabbage and red onion offers a lighter alternative to the standard creamy version. Inspired by chuck wagon cooking and San Antonio chili, the beans are made with pork rib trimmings and a spice blend influenced by Gebhardt chili powder, a classic Tex-Mex seasoning. And the South Carolina-inspired pork hash, a cross between gravy and stew, features tender braised pork in a mustard-based sauce served over rice.
But the bread is a star in its own right. “Our bread was inspired by Tom Micklethwait [of Micklethwait Craft Meats], who also gave us our first Hobart bread mixer when we moved back home to open Goldee’s,” says Milne. “We mix the dough, let it cold ferment for a few days, shape it, and bake it. Once it cools, we let it rest in a bag to get that classic soft white bread texture.”
The line at Goldee’s is notorious, but Milne offers a few tips to avoid the longest waits.
“Thursdays have been the most mellow for us so far, although we’ve only done them three times at this point. Sundays during football season can also be a good time to sneak in,” he says. He adds that for those folks who plan ahead, Goldee’s offers preorders through the trailer, where you can pick your date and time and skip the line.
An example of Goldee’s queue. © Will Milne/Goldee’s Barbecue
Hero image: Mural that welcomes diners to Goldee’s. © Will Milne/Goldee’s Bar-B•Q
Written by
Kate Heddings
Kate Heddings is a food editor and writer based in New York City. She also contributes to Food & Wine and BBC Travel.
Dining and Cooking