I’ve recently been on a Brazilian barbecue kick. Completely unlike the slow-cooked and smoked American-style barbecue, Brazilian barbecue focuses on steak and other meats prepared over an open flame on a skillet. These meats are prepared with limited toppings and served alongside a variety rice, beans and other sides. The result— when it’s done well — is a meat-forward ultra-flavorful and ultra-hearty, high-protein meal that is hard to beat, and which I frequently find myself craving.
Arriving on a recent early Tuesday evening, I found the place quiet with only a few other customers, but the meats were sizzling. Those who have been to other Brazilian barbecue restaurants will be familiar with the setup here. The restaurant is buffet style with meats cooked over an open fire on skillets. Here these meats include various cuts of steak, from flank to the picanha (sirloin). There’s also skillet and open-fire-made chicken, as well as beef ribs, pork and a variety of sausages. Sides include white and yellow rice, beans, salads, collard greens and savory meat dishes like a slow-cooked brisket stew.
I crammed as much of all this onto my plate as possible. The final price is based on the weight of your plate as you leave, but it was reasonable. My wife and I got two plates with far more food than we could finish in a single meal for a little over $40. (My plate alone could easily have fed two people.)
In addition to being a good buy, I found the food enjoyable. The steak cuts I tried were excellent and so were the plantains and grilled pineapple. A sausage serving I tried was also strong with a nice spicy kick. The beef ribs were a little on the dry side, which can be a common problem in the buffet setup as the meats can cook too long. All the sides were decent, though none jumped out as must-try — again, I find this is often the case in buffet-style dining as it’s hard to keep a meal at peak flavor in this setup.
The space is casual and nice, bolstered by a great and friendly staff. There are a few outdoor tables and a large indoor space with plenty of seats. I brought my kids and found the place very kid-friendly. Approaching its year anniversary, São Paulo has emerged as a new addition to the Brazilian dining scene in the area. It’s provided a nice option for that side of Danbury and offers some excellent Brazilian style steaks. Area diners looking to explore this style of food should give it a try, and it’s going to help satisfy my Brazilian barbecue food cravings going forward.
Erik Ofgang shares his opinions on food and drink in the state. He is the co-author of “The Good Vices” and has written for The Washington Post, The Atlantic, Smithsonian, Forbes and other publications. He pens a Connecticut Magazine column titled “Craft Cruising” about the state’s beverage scene.
Dining and Cooking