When we look back to 2021 and all that particular year was about—y’know, pandemic nonsense and the continuation of some of the weirdest times of our lives—it’s almost hard to believe restaurateur James Anthony Moore managed to open a Midtown eatery like Anthony’s Grill and make it last. Yet he did just that.
At the time, Moore told SFR he was all about “serving something good, hot and fresh during such a time,” and his gamble on a takeout-forward eatery that served stir fry, tempura, spring rolls and other Asian delights with an American bent paid off big-time. This is purely anecdotal, but I’ve got a whole gaggle of friends who swear by the place for takeout or dine-in (though, admittedly, Anthony’s Grill itself remains a pretty small affair with scant few seating options).
Enter Anthony’s Soul Café (1620 St. Michael’s Drive, (505) 365-2932), the newest project from Moore and company and one that bets big on comfort foods you both know and don’t quite know from the space recently vacated by Annapurna World Vegetarian Café. Enter also that gnawing sensation that while we’ve technically had dishes like those at Anthony’s Soul Café on other local menus around town as specials, one-offs or even lesser versions, one struggles to recall a time when so many of these specific items all landed in one place at one time.
A companion and I visited one recent night for dinner, specifically for the fried chicken. Once there, however, the experience became a rather protracted game of how-do-we-pick-a-second-dish. For what it’s worth, just about everything at Anthony’s Soul Café sounded good, and I’m including the pianist who tore through instrumental renditions of songs by Tina Turner and, if I’m not mistaken, Madonna, among others.
Once upon a time, Santa Fe’s restaurants had some fried chicken options that were pretty OK. Even so, outside of the late Shontez Morris, who was known to offer fried chicken pop-ups now and again, I’m not sure I’d ever sampled fried chicken and thought “no notes!” 2 Floyds Southern Kitchen comes mighty close to the crown, though as of this writing, they only offer thighs, and sometimes you want a breast or a drumstick or a firmer cut. Still, I do love that place, but I almost need to get back to Anthony’s. Because this is the one when it comes to fried chicken: no notes other than the dish almost seemed too fair price-wise.
For a mere $15.95, we snagged the two-piece combo plate, which comes with your choice of sides, including mashed potatoes, fries, collard greens, red beans and rice and a couple others; you also get to choose a bread option, which somehow, gloriously, includes waffles. I chose the mashed potatoes with a white gravy and waffles as our accompanying items, and I’d do it again, too. For the second dish, I selected a classic BBQ brisket plate with a side of fries (it’s important to know who has good fries in town) and cornbread, and even that big old helping of tender, juicy beef ran a more-than-reasonable $16.95.
As I say, I’ve no notes for the fried chicken outside of a terrifying moment during which the cashier believed the restaurant had possibly sold out. We managed to get the very last order at roughly 7 pm, so plan accordingly just in case, even if I imagine they’ll get ahold of how much chicken they need in the future. The chicken itself was a clearly brined and tender pair of pieces (leg and drumstick) that made use of what must be some kind of Moore family secret for the breading. When we talk about frying to a golden-brown perfection, this is the image folks have in their heads. This was a crunchy and crispy sensation with just the right amount of resistance before you get to the chicken within, and said chicken sidestepped the dryness and overcookery that seems to plague my home attempts at similar dishes with ease. Think seasoned, but not over-seasoned, and know this is some of the most tender chicken you can find in the city just now. Oh, and the mashed potatoes and waffles? Excellent. Those buttery, rich potatoes tasted more like a home-cooked version than the clearly-from-a-box offerings of lesser eateries, and the gravy was not over-thick or too-watery. It was just…satisfying. Even so, my waffles were certainly delicious and a nice carby balance with the chicken, though I think a good waffle should have a little more crisp and solidity.
The brisket plate was also a fine dish, though if I’d known it came slathered in BBQ sauce, I might have ordered it on the side. Don’t get me wrong—I love the stuff, but I love it when I make the call about volume and when I can taste the meat un-sauced. All the same, said sauce lent a sweet accent to the thinly sliced and smoky brisket that I rather liked, even if I’d have gone a tad lighter. As for the fries? An easy recommendation for some of the crispiest and more flavorful ever.
“Y’know what?” I said to my companion. “I am comforted. I was having an incredibly stressful day, and this actually helps.”
Keep in mind that Anthony’s Soul Café is still in its opening window. If I hadn’t wanted fried chicken so badly, I might have even waited a few more months before dining there. Moore is clearly a man with vision, however, and someone who has dialed in that vision. I’m interested to see more live music over time (the mural out front credited to a young artist who goes by @acylic_possum on Instagram leads me to believe there will be blues shredders at some point), but I’m also interested to see how the dishes are evolved and refined. Whatever happens next, I’m thrilled to be able to have an easy answer to the question about where to get good fried chicken in Santa Fe. It’s at Anthony’s
Dining and Cooking