CHARLESTON — A restaurant’s bar can tell a story of its own, a script that helps define the tables that surround it.
And the one at OK Donna on Upper King Street is pulsing with energy that flows from the nonchalantly diligent bartenders to customers intent on collecting every detail.
Partially zested citrus, shiny cocktail shakers and a bushel of fresh mint separate staff from patrons, though the barrier might as well be invisible. They converse freely with those there to order delicious drinks and food that veers from classic Italian to the nostalgic whimsy of technique-driven chefs.
Listen as they dish details about raw tuna resting in a bed of crème fraîche, diced cucumbers pasted to the velvety, tangy spread, which is dotted green with basil oil.
They highlight glistening focaccia speckled with sea salt, a large dollop of whipped ricotta on the side for dunking, and $5 square slices of pizza plastered with crispy cups of pepperoni.
In between talks with customers, the bartenders stir and garnish drinks that make their way across the room, where tables are set along the walls and a standing bar hangs out in the center. Step through a doorway beneath a floating shelf stocked with wine bottles and a pair of vintage wood speakers to the patio, where a temperature-controlled tertiary dining area looks into the kitchen.
Across the entire space, the vibe feels contemporary-cool. Solo diners and couples, 20-somethings and their parents, and groups gathered for a boozy, boisterous dinner flock to the restaurant on any given night.
OK Donna has Charleston’s attention, you’ll realize when you go to book a reservation. Seldom will you come across 6:30 to 8 p.m. time slots, but I’ve found seats at the bar on three separate occasions, each without a wait.
Those who get in will find captivating cocktails coupled with generously portioned fare fit for this trendy setting. But with its frequently changing menu, is OK Donna reliable enough to be the neighborhood restaurant it endeavors to be?
Dining and Cooking