One of the things I love about being a food writer is highlighting great organizations and people helping others. This column is about a wonderful nonprofit — Southern Smoke Foundation — that is working in Colorado and other places to help those in the food industry with mental health care and emergency relief.
Southern Smoke Foundation began in Houston in 2015 when chef Chris Shepherd and his PR-expert wife, Lindsey Brown, held an outdoor meat-smoking fundraiser for the MS Society after a colleague was diagnosed with multiple sclerosis. Shortly thereafter, Hurricane Harvey hit and they held a fundraiser for hospitality workers. During the pandemic, they formally established an emergency fund for food industry workers. This nonprofit has now provided over $16 million in assistance and more than 12,000 free counseling sessions.
This year, Southern Smoke Foundation received the prestigious Impact Award from the James Beard Foundation recognizing its contributions to the food and beverage industry and its creation of a safety net. I’m truly in awe of how a one-time fundraiser morphed into an amazing nonprofit helping so many people!
Daniel Ortiz/Special to The Daily Sentinel
Thousands of chefs and supporters gathered together in Houston for Southern Smoke Foundation’s annual fundraiser this month. A record-breaking $2 million was raised to help others.
Daniel Ortiz/Special to The Daily Sentinel
This summer, I was moved to tears at the Food & Wine Classic in Aspen when it was announced that Southern Smoke Foundation was going to start offering free counseling to people in Colorado. Food & Wine’s editor-in-chief, Hunter Lewis, stood up during a panel that chef Chris Shepherd was on and personally pledged additional funds to go toward these efforts. This was followed by others offering donations and was an incredibly touching moment. I interviewed Lewis later and told him how pleased I was and learned more about Food & Wine’s relationship with Southern Smoke Foundation and its recognition of the critical importance of mental health care.
As part of the entry into Colorado, Southern Smoke Foundation has partnered with the University of Denver’s psychology department to offer 20 no-cost counseling sessions for anyone working in the food and beverage world. This is amazing and includes restaurants, breweries, food trucks, farmers, ranchers, wineries and others! To qualify, one has to have been working for at least six months and employed for 30 hours or more a week in the food industry. Counseling sessions are available in person or via telehealth. Confidentiality is paramount and they have flexible hours. Graduate students under faculty supervision will be providing the care.
Christine Gallagher/The Daily Sentinel
Dr. Noelle Lefforge oversees the counseling clinic at the University of Denver. The university’s psychology clinical services department has partnered with Southern Smoke Foundation to provide up to 20 free counseling sessions for people in the food and beverage industry.
Christine Gallagher/The Daily Sentinel
I traveled to Denver to interview the director of professional psychology clinical services, Dr. Noelle Lefforge, and see the facilities. It was inspiring and I look forward to the program growing over the years. Southern Smoke Foundation’s counseling initiative is called “Behind You” and refers to the phrase used by restaurants when they are about to walk behind someone with something hot, sharp, etc. Southern Smoke Foundation decided to use it to convey the feeling of having someone’s back and helping them.
According to Southern Smoke Foundation’s website, “symptoms that counseling can help with include stress, burnout, depression, anxiety, low motivation, strained relationships, feelings of overwhelm and the feeling of being out of control of your own emotions and thoughts. Asking for help can be hard; Southern Smoke Foundation is here to find the appropriate support for what you are experiencing. When it comes to seeking help, no problem is too big or too small.”
Cozy, private counseling rooms at the University of Denver’s clinic offer a safe space to talk about mental health concerns in person. Telehealth is also available.
Dr. Lefforge commented, “The way I see it, food and beverage workers are nourishing Colorado and need support to do so. We at the University of Denver are in a position to help them, while providing an excellent training opportunity for our students that will strengthen the workforce for years to come. I can’t think of a more rewarding partnership.”
I also interviewed Catarina Bill — the chief mission officer at Southern Smoke Foundation who has been working with nonprofits since 2004 at the Red Cross. I was impressed with her passion and commitment to helping others. She noted that Southern Smoke Foundation is “supportive of the entire industry” and its hope to continuing expanding their help for people around the country.
Daniel Ortiz/Special to The Daily Sentinel
One of the many beautiful dishes served at the recent Southern Smoke Foundation’s annual fundraiser. A record-breaking $2 million was raised.
Daniel Ortiz/Special to The Daily Sentinel
We talked about the importance of reaching out to rural areas and farmers, ranchers, field workers, etc. Bill noted that “industry folks don’t have traditional schedules.” Thus, Southern Smoke Foundation has worked to ensure that telehealth and a variety of hours are available for counseling sessions. “When it came time to make this dream of expanding into Colorado a reality, our friends at the University of Denver showed us just how perfectly aligned and well-equipped they are to provide the highest level of mental health services to the food and beverage communities who need it most,” Bill said.
During our conversation, we also discussed the various challenges and stressors involved with agriculture and the isolation that exists. In addition to rural concerns, we discussed how even famous chefs can get isolated from friends and family and how that can limit their ability to receive help. The anonymity of these free counseling sessions can be critical.
Along with free counseling, Southern Smoke Foundation has an emergency relief fund where food and beverage workers can get financial assistance with rent, medical bills, living expenses, transportation, childcare and more. Applications are available online and need to be received within six months of a qualifying crisis.
Southern Smoke Foundation’s website has a poignant quotation from an anonymous head chef in Chicago — “Thank you for the opportunity to have my first therapy session in my life. It was life-changing in ways where I didn’t know it could be possible, all by talking. I hope more people can take the opportunity to embark on this incredible journey. Some people may need it, even if they don’t know it.”
The website notes, “Rest assured, your information is kept private every step of the way. We know it takes a lot to ask for help — we’re here for you and will reach back promptly.” To learn more about Southern Smoke Foundation’s information for counseling and/or emergency relief funds, or to donate money to help, visit their website at https://southernsmoke.org.
Even if you aren’t professionally involved with the food world, if you or someone you know is struggling or in crisis, please know that help is available. You can call or text 988 for help with suicidal feelings, call 911 or go to the nearest emergency room. You are not alone.

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