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At Larimer Square’s brand-new Rōmyō, the bowls that hold cacio e pepe ramen and other Japanese-Italian creations almost glow, thanks to a mottled turquoise glaze. Each vessel is unique—an indicator of the tableware’s handmade origin.
The artist is Luca Bonanno, and you may recognize his name: Luca was a year old in 2003, when Frank and Jacqueline Bonanno named their then-new Governors Park Italian eatery after him. Luca didn’t follow his father into the kitchen, choosing instead to pursue a fine arts degree at the University of Colorado Boulder. But his contribution to Rōmyō is emblematic of the elder Bonanno’s culinary mission: itameshi, a marriage of Japan and Italy’s deep and sometimes overlapping culinary traditions (which you may have tasted at Bonanno’s now-closed Dumplin’).
The family, including Luca and his brother, Marco, recently visited Tokyo, in part to sample itameshi in its home country. “I was impressed with how efficient and fast everything was, and how simple,” Frank says. “The food we ate was very inspiring for Rōmyō.” When you slurp those noodles or dip into the savory egg custard called chawanmushi (here blanketed in Parmigiano Reggiano foam), take a moment to consider the seemingly random crackles and drips on their bowls—patterns 24 years in the making. 1401 Larimer St., Denver (LoDo)
Read More: The 12 Best New Places to Eat and Drink in Denver, Fall 2026
This article was originally published in 5280 October 2026.
Dining and Cooking