The first hint is the aroma: a sprig of rosemary torched at the rim, the bright snap of mint released with a shake, or a cloud of lavender rising from foam. The colors are vibrant. Before even taking a sip, a restaurant customer is awash in a sensory experience.
Delaware bartenders know that botanicals, especially herbs, do more than dress up a coupe. They add freshness, deepen flavor, and help cocktails and mocktails feel seasonal—especially as the weather warms. Used thoughtfully, herbs and flowers become serious ingredients, not gimmicky garnishes.
From apothecary to aperitif
Blending alcohol and herbs is nothing new. Consider Green Chartreuse, a French herbal liqueur made by the Carthusian monks as early as the 17th century. The recipe includes some 130 plants. “It will give you that little bit of star anise, but it also gives you parsley and oregano—it’s just a very cool taste, very green,” says Joe Slavinski, general manager and bar manager at Drift Seafood & Raw Bar. 42½ Baltimore Ave., Rehoboth Beach; 567-2744.
Alcohol and herbs were also a practical pairing. The alcohol helped extract aromatic oils in plants that were valued for medicinal properties, says Ron Gomes, co-founder of Painted Stave Distilling in Smyrna. A spoonful of botanicals helped the medicine go down—and it also improved the flavor of poorly produced spirits, he adds. 106 W. Commerce St., Smyrna; 653-6834.
Gin, made with juniper, was invented in Holland to intensify juniper’s medicinal properties and give Dutch soldiers a dose of “Dutch Courage,” says Brian Burnett, a mixologist at Snuff Mill Restaurant, Butchery & Wine Bar. 1601 Concord Pike, Wilmington; 303-7676.
In the early 19th century, bitters and herbal liqueurs were marketed as tonics. Fast-forward to the 1850s, when American bars began serving cocktails with bitters to add balance. Today, bittersweet amari—plural for amaro—is the liqueur du jour. Amaro Montenegro is made from a proprietary blend of 40 botanicals, including vanilla, orange peels, and eucalyptus. It’s one of the ingredients in Home Grown Cafe’s Boozy Chocolate Orange. 126 E. Main St., Newark; 266-6993.
Painted Stave’s gin has the requisite juniper berries, along with lavender, coriander, lemon balm, and sweet goldenrod—Delaware’s state herb. For spring, the Smyrna distillery adds it to strawberry-basil lemonade. Photo by Becca Mathias.
Seasonal sensations
In summer, Timothy Valdis Berzins uses sweet basil and Hendrick’s to make a Gin Basil Smash, a popular drink at Patsy’s Restaurant. The cocktail complements the tuna poke, he adds. 121 Campbell Place, Bethany Beach; 537-2433.
Basil and mint boast refreshing notes, he says. The mojito suits Patsy’s Key West vibe.
Drift features a basil eau-de-vie (brandy) made by St. George Spirits. Slavinski makes a “milk” by mixing the basil brandy with Amaro Montenegro, lemon juice, and whole milk. The milk curdles—that’s the point. Slavinski separates the liquids from the solids by pouring the mix through a coffee filter. The residual milk proteins bring a silky texture to the clear liquid.
Shorebreak Lodge’s Pura Vida Basil Gimlet has basil oil, Fords Gin, Dolin Blanc, lime, simple syrup, and fresh basil. 10 Wilmington Ave., Rehoboth Beach; 227-1007.
At The Federal, mint lifts the flavor of fresh watermelon puree and lemon-lime sparkling soda. The restaurant’s Turkish Limonata mocktail contains fresh lemon juice, lemon zest, and fresh thyme. 62A Rehoboth Ave., Rehoboth Beach; 727-5609.
Rosemary, which resembles miniature Christmas trees, brings a festive touch to cranberry cocktails.
Rosemary makes for an eye-catching garnish, as evidenced by Bar Reverie’s Rouge 75, which includes gin, raspberry syrup, lemon juice, and prosecco. Photo by Sara D’Antonio.
“The aroma can enhance the experience because you smell it right away when you bring the cocktail to your mouth—right under your nose.
—ELLEN KASSOFF
Scent and spectacle
A well-placed herb garnish can make a nonalcoholic drink feel complete before the first sip, says Ellen Kassoff, who owns The Federal with her husband, Todd Gray. The visual appeal is a strong pull; she’s seen many strangers start conversations over an imposing rosemary sprig. Smoke the sprig, and the aroma will waft throughout the dining room, making the cocktail the center of attention.
“The aroma can enhance the experience because you smell it right away when you bring the cocktail to your mouth—right under your nose,” Kassoff says. “It creates anticipation.”
Then there is the color. Harry’s Savoy Grill features the Empress 75—Empress 1908 Indigo Gin, cava, fresh lemon juice, simple syrup, and a lemon-twist garnish. “It is one of our most popular signature cocktails,” says Kelly O’Hanlon, director of operations. 2020 Naamans Road, Wilmington; 475-3000.
The hue comes from the butterfly pea flower, a deep-blue herbal plant that is having its day. Snuff Mill’s lavender martini contains vodka or gin, butterfly pea flower tea, honey, lavender liqueur, and lemon juice. It’s topped with a butterfly pea flower nestled in Champagne foam. Burnett rims the glass with lemon and pepper.
At BBC Tavern, the Razzle Dazzle also sports a butterfly pea flower, this time atop citrus cold foam. Other ingredients include Italicus Rosolio di Bergamotto, which is made with Calabrian bergamot and Sicilian cedro, with lavender and yellow roses. 4019 Kennett Pike, Greenville; 655-3785.
Technique is where herb cocktails can go wrong. Most consumers don’t want a mouthful of lavender flowers, Slavinski notes. At Drift and Shorebreak Lodge, a dropper of basil oil will often do.
Whether it’s a thyme-laced mocktail, a mint-brightened classic, or a blue cocktail, the goal is the same: Build a beverage that guests want to sip slowly, not just photograph.
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