An American restaurant story about food, family, and love. Inspired by real chefs, Trattoria is a drama/comedy set in the exciting San Francisco restaurant scene. It is about a chef and his son who attempt to reconnect and heal their past through cooking.
Opening a restaurant is a lot of work. It never goes as easy as you would dreamed or expected. It’s not all fun, fame and fortune. [radio DJ] You’re listening to Mark in the morning and we’re here to talk about one of my favorite topics, food, in the San Francisco restaurant scene. What’s new? What’s hot? What’s happening out there? The hot chef’s that are up and coming. The ones who are going. The best restaurants, the newest restaurants, The top 100 list. Hi caller you’re on the air. [caller 1] Ya hi, good morning, thanks for taking my call. I love to talk about food. My favorite foods are Greek, Vietnamese, Thai, – Ethiopian… -[caller 2] Mexican food. -[caller 1] Italian food. Italian… comfort food to me is Italian. My favorite food is really Italian. I go out three or four times a week, there’s great variety and fantastic chefs. [caller 2] I eat out in San Francisco a lot, and I’ve got to say over the last few years it’s gotten more and more froo-froo, new vogue, California style stuff, that’s just drivin’ me crazy. [caller 1] I think there are over three thousand restaurants in San Francisco, and probably five million opinions on which ones are good. [caller 2] I’ve, I’ve found Sal Sartini’s place, it’s absolutely fantastic, I love Italian. Uh, and he actually has some fantastic food. [caller 1] Uh, it’s his third restaurant and I’m really excited to, to give it a whirl because he’s produced consistently excellent restaurants and food. Hold, hold on a second. Did you dim the lights? Just worry about the food. I worry about everything. Tell everybody we’re going back to [unintelligible] again, the printers down. Okay. Opening a restaurant is one of the hardest things to do because it’s like, moving in with 20 to 40 new roommates. Let’s see, it’s, it’s like starting a, it’s starting a football season all over again. Everybody’s about to give birth together. You’re working with a budget, you’re working with a time line, um, you’re working with a lot of creative elements, a lot of people, a new crew. And everybody does give birth together. You never quite know exactly what’s going to happen and who’s in. Busy, hectic, fun, exciting. I, I always feel like this is like a sport, and I’m putting together a team, and, you know, I like to win tournaments, so, that’s, that’s what this is about. [chuckles] [shuttle driver] To where for you’re going? Uh, Cinquecento, the restaurant, it’s in, uh, North Beach. I haven’t heard of that place and I eat everywhere. Well, this is my dads’, uh, my dads’ place. It’s, it’s brand new, he just opened it. Really? Is it good? I don’t know, I haven’t been there before. But he, he’s a really great chef. Um, he used to make the best Gnocchi. [man] It sounds Italian. It’s Italian right? Uh, yeah. [John] Knife and fork. [Sal] Okay, for the vegetarian, and for the hostess with the mostest. [John] What, they’re getting what the rest of us are eating? [Anna] Shut up. Sal? Try this Cab from Spring Mountain, very, you know, complex but with light tannins. It’s a decent night, huh? Yeah, wasn’t bad. Still have a few kinks to work out before the food critic get here. We’ll be fine. [Anna] Who’s that? [John] That’s Sal’s son. Hey, Vince, how are ya? I’m good, how’re you doin’? It’s, it’s good to see you. -Yeah. -[Cecelia] Hi Vincent. Hey. How are ya? [Cecelia] I’m good, how are you? -I’m good. -[Sal] Everybody, this is my son Vincent. This is José, -Hey, José. -[José] Nice to meet you. Jorge. -[Jorgé] Nice to meet you. -Pleasure. And this is John. Oh, John, hey. How… Thanks for letting me stay at your place. – [John] No problem. – And this is our little cheerleader, Anna. -Hey. -[Vincent] Hi. [Cecelia] Won’t you sit down, have some pasta. -Yeah. Please. -[Vincent] Thank you. So. José give him a fork. -Thank you. -So, how was your flight? Was good. Just watched cooking shows the whole way here. Oh. -It’s good. Spicy. -Hmm. It’s just the way Cecelia likes it. Is it, uh, beef? It’s free-range, grass fed. A little bit of basil, little bit of olive oil. No, uh, pork or veal, like Nonna’s meatballs? We’re actually tryna get Sal to take veal off the menu. -[Sal chuckles] -[Vincent] Why? Because the force-feed the baby calves. Besides, the veal makes the meatballs a little too heavy. Too rich. Just let us eat a meal and enjoy it. -[Anna] Oh, shut up. -[mumbling] [John] Just let us eat a meal and enjoy it. -Vegetarian. -[Cecelia mumbles] [Sal chuckles] Okay, everybody. To my son, Vincent. Salute! [all] Salute. You, uh doin’ inventory? Uh, yeah. -[Vincent] Cool kitchen. -Hmm, it works. Oh, I hope you don’t mind staying with John. He said he could use a roommate. [Vince] No, it’s fine. [clears throat] Uh, when do you want me to start workin’? Well, I thought you might settle in for a couple of days, no? No, no, I’ll, uh, start right away. Oh. Okay. A, well then, uh, I could use a dish washer. I turned to Manuel the other day and asked him for saucepans… [shouting in Spanish] Yeah, dish washer sure, yeah. I’ll help out. [sighs] I, uh, just wanted to say good night, uh, John’s waiting for me outside. Okay. Good night. It’s good to see ya. It’s good to see you too, Vince. I work with my wife, she’s the hostess here. It’s an opportunity to share insight, whether it’s food, employees, customers, it, it really helps. The hazard, you take it home with you. We love food and wine, it’s, it’s what we talked about on our first date. It’s, we still talk about, we’re doing something we love and we’re doing it together, and it’s a great combination. [Sal] Yeah, okay, I’ll take ten pounds of clams and mussels. All right, well, listen. Do me a favor, give me 20 pounds of seabass, okay? Yeah, you got it. Take care. Did you see this? The restaurant’s good for the opening night party. It took them long enough. What’s it say? Why don’t you read it. "Restaurants scoop." Sal Sartini had his opening night party for his new restaurant, Cinquecento. A crowd of local notoriety enjoyed prosecco "and tasty bites." That’s it. Two lines. "Rising star, chef Amanda Conner, went to North Beach’s Heat. Chef owner, Ramsey Miller, is left [unintelligible] to open his first place. Young sensation, Steven Lee, became executive chef at, Oh! And 28 year old Johnathan Levan "has opened the second place on Hyde Street." Wow. Oh. "And then San Francisco’s highly rated Lilian, chef owner Kimble Davis and his wife, business partner, Lilian Davis, have split up." Hmmm. Another restaurant casualty. "And after 20 years chef Russo has hung up his apron. De la Russo’s has closed its doors." Huh, well that guy hasn’t been in the top 100 in a while. Gotta get on that list. [John] We should meet them right there. [curry guy] Do you guys each want a bowl of curry? We’ll take two bowls, please. [curry guy] Absolutely. It’s three dollars. The spoons are over there. -This is amazing. -[John] Not bad, huh? -[Vincent] Not bad at all. -[John chuckles] So how much do you think this guy makes? Two, three hundred a day. -Clear? -Yeah. All cash. A couple though a week. There’s a whole underground street food scene, man. I mean, you can track your favorite food carts all online, like where they’re goin’ for the day and they’re all about sustainable food. Huh. That’s really cool. And the chicks love it. [chuckling] [Vince] You’re funny. There you go, sud-buster. [sighs heavily] El, el carpaccio. [speaking Spanish] Bueno. What is that? Uh, misfire. You want some wine with that? What, are you high? We’re open, I can’t believe… [yelling] Come on, we’re open! What the hell’s goin’ on here? What’s goin’ on here? Here you go. For you, and for you. Enjoy your dinners. -Anders. -What? -Jeffrey Anders is here. -Are you sure? Oh yeah, he’s got "food critic" written all over him. I’ve got a guy out there asking me all these questions. What’s this, what’s that, how’s this prepared… Anders. No! No, no, no. Nobody knows what he looks like. -I do! -But he hides his identity. What? That, that’s him. That’s him! You carry a picture of him in him in your wallet? -Sal, that’s kind of weird. -[Sal] Really? This is his food. You know what? He’s here because the top 100 comes out soon. Okay, all right. Are you on top of everything? Yeah, I’m giving him better than my normal shitty service. Oh, very funny. You know what? Don’t make fun with me. All right. Right, quickfire Carpaccio and Misdo… No, he already had that. Carpaccio and Misdo? -The Misdo. -Fire Carpaccio VIP and re-fire lamb, medium rare VIP. Let’s go! [stammers] Where’s my article? That first review sets the tone for how the restaurant is viewed for, for year… could be for years to come. Yep. Well sure, there’s always stress when a food critic’s in the restaurant, but, um, you wanna put your best foot forward and I think that freaking out is, uh, counterproductive. I’m stressed out if I feel like somebody’s a weak link. Um, somebody’s underperforming and I’m about to chop their head off. [chuckles] [Anna] The lamb. [Anders] Wow. That took a little bit. [Anna] Well, the chef wanted it to be just right. [Anders] Thank you very much. They’re swarming him. They’re giving him good service. Yeah, but everything has to be normal. No, no, no special treatment. You just remade his dinner! Well, we want to get a good review, right? I ema, his food has to be perfect. Look, I’m competing against all these new hot wanna-be chefs that are popping up all over the place Sal, you do not have to compete with anybody. Your food is great! Okay? Some customers were asking for you, -let’s go work the floor. -No, no. No. You don’t smooze the food critic. You’re not smoozing the food critic, you’re talking to the guests. Yeah, but if he sees me out there on the floor, then he’s gonna think I’m not paying attention to the food in there! What is wrong with you? You love talking to the guests. Come on. [Cecelia] Hey ladies. [heart beating] [John and Jorge] Sal! [ambulance siren wailing] [Sal] Look, I’m okay, I’m tellin’ you, all right? -Seriously. -[paramedic] I’m sorry, could we get some space here please? [female paramedic] Sir, I need you to put your head back Look, I’m all right. I mean it. [female paramedic] How many fingers am I holding up? You got two fingers up. All right, now you have three fingers up, okay? Can I stand up, please? Okay, guys, do me a favor. We need to keep working here, okay? Uh, you, you go out and you deal with Anders. What should I tell him? Don’t tell him anything! Jeffrey Anders? The food critic? [Anna and Cecelia] Yes! [Sal] All right, listen. Did he see you guys come in? -Huh? -[Cecelia] Hey, don’t worry about it. He has no idea that they’re here. Oh, this is great. [paramedic] We’re gonna have to take him in to emergency. [Cecelia] What? [Sal sighs] [Cecelia] Yeah, so he’s fine, I’m relieved. It’s all good. Vincent’s making him breakfast. I don’t know. Vince, what’re you making him? Uh, frittata. He’s making a frittata. By the way, use the whites, okay? And don’t put any salt in, and don’t tell him I said that. [whispering] Okay. So, no, no, no, he’s good, he’s good. The doctor says he’s gonna live to be 100. -A 150. -[Vincent] Hey! Look like you got the shit kicked out of you. Thank you very much. [Cecelia] We will see you later. -Good morning. -Good morning. You had a severe panic attack, do you remember this? They call it Takotsubo cardiomyopathy. It’s called embarrassing. [Cecelia] Or that too. I think it’s a warning. I think you’re having a mid-life crisis. [Sal] So, what’s that supposed to mean? Nothing. It just means… You have to take an aspirin every day and then the doctor prescribed some pills… You feel panicky or whatever you just need to take one. You know what? Forget about it. -What? -Let me do this. Because the next thig you know I’m gonna be taking ten pills a day, popping Xanax like tic-tacs, all drugged up, addicted! I’m not taking any pills! You can’t let me scramble your eggs? Not with a fork! Well, I can use a whisk, if I knew were the whisk was. Will you let him do it? You need to relax. Thank you. [Sal sighs] My least favorite thing about being a chef, especially at my age now, is just standing on my feet for this many hours. It extracts like my blood out of me, every day. When everybody’s out having their holidays or having party is when we make most of our life as a restaurateur. I work holidays, I work weekends, I work vacations. If it’s high season you’re working too hard, it it’s low season you’re not making any money, so you better have some passion to put into the whole thing. You better really, really, truly enjoy what you’re doing. -This okay? -Yeah. -Okay. -[inaudible] -Hey. -Hey. What’re you doin’? Well, what are you doing here? Shouldn’t you be taking it easy? Doctor said it was okay for me to go back to work. Oh. Well, uh, I just thought I’d help out, you know, since you had the heart attack. [chuckles] I didn’t have a heart attack. Well, you know, maybe, maybe I can start helping out in the kitchen? I know, you taking lessons from Ricky Ricardo over there, huh? Yeah, he’s helping me out. -Yeah. -Uh… Well, it’s very thoughtful of you, Vince, but seriously I’m fine. Well, yeah, I wanna work in the kitchen. -Really? Since when? -Yeah. Look, we have a team here and, uh… I, I mean, I just thought since the heart attack, you know… Again with the heart attack, will you stop with the heart attack? I’m fine. Seriously. I really appreciate it, thank you very much, but we got it from here. -Okay? -Yeah, sure. Yeah. What’s everybody standing around for, huh? [chuckles] Hey come on, all right, all right, all right. Let’s go, back to work. [Anna] The busser… for the dish washer. [Vincent] Ah, thank you. [Sal sighs] -Your prescription. I want you to keep it on you at all times. Honey, pour him a glass of wine, will ya? I’m fine! -[Cecelia] Sit! -Always fine. [Sal] Come on! [Vincent] Take only as needed. May cause drowsiness, slurred speech, dizziness. Altered interest in having sexual intercourse… [chuckles] Yeah, right. For somebody else, not me. Decreased libido. -Wait, really? -[Vincent] Yeah. -Decreased nothing! -Ah… Hey, I’m fine! I’m… All right, you know what? Watch this! Okay, here we go. Oh my God, here we go. [clears throat] Here we go. -Sal, get up! -Ready? [José, Jorge, John] One. Two. -Three. -Should he be doing this? -[José, Jorge, John] Four. Five. -Get up! [José, Jorge, John] Six. Seven. Eight. Nine. Ten. Sal! – Ridiculous and unacceptable. – [Sal] Okay? [José, Jorge, John cheering] -[Anna] Family man. -That’s right. -A mid-life crisis man. -What? -Yes! You heard me… -All right. A new drink, in honor of Sal. Takotsubo attack. Salute! [all] Salute! Salute! [Sal panting] [sighs heavily] So, um, what’s your deal? You, uh, you still in school? I graduated. So, why you waiting tables? What are you saying? Only students can wait tables? No. No, um, I mean anyone can do it. Anyone can do anything. Well, not everyone can, uh, cook. Not everyone makes a good waiter. I’m a 30 percent tip waitress. On average. And don’t, don’t get me wrong, I don’t expect it it’s just what I get. Well, then I, I guess I should be expecting an extra dollar fifty on my tips tomorrow? Okay, seriously. If you were Sal, would want just anyone carrying out your food? -It takes skill. -Skill. Yeah, skill. I mean, a college education? If the kitchen screws up, who takes the heat? The waiter! But if the food’s good, ah, the chef is a genius. I can cover for the kitchen when they make a mistake, but if I screw up, I don’t care how good they cook, my tips are shit! Okay. FYI, I’m waiting tables so I can save up money to open my own wine bar. At least I’m not washing dishes! Oh, I’m not washing dishes. I got promoted. -To busser. -[laughs] Cheer to that. My first real cooking job was with a self-taught chef in Jackson, Wyoming. It was a five-table restaurant and I was her prep-cook and dish washer and because of her I’m probably standing here today. I started when I was 12 when everybody was going in vacation, I would just think about eating. And my love for food just brought me to ask my parents to let me go work in the morning and deliver bread. I worked with a Japanese woman as an exchange student in Japan, uh, who taught me an old Buddhist cuisine in southern Japan. On the first day on the job I cut the tip of my index finger off. Went home to the hospital, that was the first day. [chuckles] Have you done this before? [Vincent] Hmmm? Uh, no. -Forks go on the left. -[Vincent] Oh. [mumbles] Gotcha. Thank you. [Anna] Mmm-Hmm. Okay, also, when you clear plates, try to take everyone’s at the same time, do it like this, only if everybody is finished. Knife and fork in the four o’clock position is usually a sign that they’re done. [Vincent] Okay. [Anna] All right, you try. -Ah, that’s really classy. -What? Especially if there’s still food on the plates. [Vince] Gotcha. [laughs] Nice. Broom’s in the back. Hmmm. Everything looks so good. What do you recommend? Uh, well, the, um, the ravioli is delicious, uh, maybe start with the seared el carpaccio, sliced nice and thin, uh, lots of flavor. And, uh, the pappardelle with rapini is a favorite. Don’t you have risotto? Oh, risotto? No. No risotto? In an Italian restaurant? Um… [male patron] See if the chef can whip some up for us. You don’t whip up risotto. I know that. I’m just telling you what the customer said. Oh, Sal? Table seven wants to see you. Well, they’re gonna have to wait because I have to whip up some risotto. Why don’t you let chef [inaudible] do it for you? I make an amazing risotto. I do. I’ve made a risotto verdé milanese, I can be your risotto guy in the kitchen. Well, that’s great, Vince, except I don’t have risotto on the menu. All right, fine. Your pasta guy. Vince, look, this is a very busy kitchen and I don’t need the help. Just go tell the customer I’ll be ready shortly. Risotto Milanese? Hey, Vince? I need you to plunge the woman’s bathroom. -Hey! Be careful. -This is bullshit. Oh really? I didn’t come here to plunge toilets. Well, I thought you said you wanted to work in a restaurant? Well, I want to train with you. Yeah? Since when? -I don’t know. -Well, you gotta know! Okay? You gotta really know. You just can’t watch some celebrity chefs or these, these cooking clowns on video shows and think that you wanna be a chef. I mean, the last time we talked about this you said that you didn’t, you didn’t ever wanna be a chef! – In fact, you said, [stammers] – All right, okay. Well, I was mad! -[Sal] Oh. -And I changed my mind. And now I wanna see if, I wanna train with you and I wanna see if I like it. Yeah, well I don’t have time to train you to see if you like it, okay? What, what do you think this is, school? Listen, I’m running a first class restaurant over here and it’s occupying a lot of my time. Now, listen… I need you to go into the bathroom and unplug that woman’s toilet. Please. God knows what the hell they throw down there. Please. -Okay? -I guess, I don’t have a choice really, do I? I promise you if you don’t come back in 20 minutes we’ll send a rescue party for you, okay? All right. Get this, go make it happen. Oh my God! Oh my God! Okay, really? Really? Really? [blows out heavy breath] Oh, Jesus. Oh my God! Argh! [toilet bubbling] [grunts] [toilet bubbling] Argh! You gotta know, Vince, really know! We’re done. [gagging] [coughs] All right, I can do this. All right. [puffs out breath] [grunts] All right, all right. That’s enough. [yelling] Come on! [Sal] You like that? Yeah, that looks good. Hey, how’d you like that salmon I made the other day? Argh, that was delicious, that was the best salmon. Ever. Think I should add it to the menu? Sure! As well as a vegetarian dish. Okay. What did you have in mind? Hmm. Risotto? Like the Risotto Milanese I made for the tourists? But without the chicken stock. [Sal sighs] All right, I guess I can make it with vegetable broth and a nice plump Arborio rice to soak up the saffron. Hmmm. I might make you a vegetarian yet. Well, I wouldn’t hold my breath. All right, I’ll tell you what. You take this home with you -and see what else I can add. -All righty. -Night. -Good night, kiddo. [upbeat sensual music] Uh, why, uh, why’s my dad asking you for menu suggestions? You mean… this menu? [both chuckling] Yeah that menu. Oh, okay. I am his expert food consultant. Oh. Um, [chuckles] why, uh, how, how can you be an expert if you don’t eat meat? Um, I’ve been waiting tables for five years. [stammers] Impressive. [Anna] You a little jealous? -[chuckles] absolutely not. [Anna chuckles] Why do you care? You wanna be a chef? Um… I’m tryna figure out what my next move is. -[Anna] Hmmm. -That’s why I came out here. You know, to, u, [clears throat] help out and, uh… see… See what? If I, if I wanna be a chef. Well, have you shown him you can cook? -You can cook, right? [Vincent smirks] [Anna] Can you cook? Yeah. I can cook for you. -What will a busboy make me? -A busboy? Excuse me, I’m, I’m I’m a top chef. Do you wanna hear my menu? Yeah. Uh, eggplant parmigiana, quinoa soft peppers… -pasta del forno… -I do love pasta. -[both laughing] -You’re making me hungry. Well, I, uh, [clears throat] I do have a full fridge at John’s. Uh… Uh, if you would do this kindness, I prefer, um, it would please me much so if you could be my consultant. Yep. Let’s go. -[chuckles] Right now? -[Anna] Yeah. [chuckles] Okay. We’ll go. Right now. Oh. That’s my Nonna’s cookbook. -Your Nonna? -Yeah, my grandmother Nonzia. -[Anna] Hmmm. -She liked her wine too. We have that in common. [Vincent] Mmm-hmm. Oh, wow! Linguini ala olio, macaroni and cheese, ziti el forno, chicken parmesan, tiramisu, Italian… Italian love cake? Oh, yeah! Italian love cake. You know, she named that after me. So, why haven’t you been out here before? -I have. -Oh. Just not since my parents got divorced. [Anna] Why did your parents split up? Uh… I think it, um, my dad always works and I guess my mom just got tired of it. Um, one day… [smirks] My mom had asked my dad to be somewhere… this was very, very important to her… and, uh he missed it. Like always. Um, she got so pissed [chuckles] she took all of his clothes from his closet and she was running down the stairs screaming and yelling in Italian and she threw the clothes in the backyard and grabbed some gaslight and set it all on fire. [chuckles] Holy shit. Yeah. They split up after that. [smirks] Um… So, uh, I think we have about 20 minutes. Smells good. [ticking followed by a ping] okay, let’s see. And it is done. [Anna] Smells delicious. Uh, so there’s three cheeses, there’s, um, parmesan, ricotta and, uh, pecorino. Mmm, sounds yummy. Uh, I think, I think I’m gonna pursue this cooking thing. You know, I know it’s cliché, but I believe you should do what you love. To pursuing your passion! -And Nonna’s cooking. -[Vincent chuckles] A 2005 Italian red, perfect with this dish. Oh, well, here’s to the Sommelier. -That is good. -It’s delicious. I’m hungry! [laughing] Serve me, please. Shit! Take it we didn’t get into the top 100? You think? Okay. Calm down, you’re gonna give yourself another heart attack. It wasn’t a heart attack, remember? Oh, it could’ve been. [Sal] I’ve been on that damn list for how many years? Listen to this. [blender whizzing] "Co-owners Sal and Cecelia Sartini…" Are accommodating and caring and the wine list is impressive, complimenting chef Sartini’s innovative Italian fare. Sal Sartini… Italian fare. [blender whizzing] Sal Sartini has been on my list for years "and his new place need to work out the kinks…" [blender whizzing] -Are you kidding? All right, calm down. "I don’t doubt that we will him on the list next year." Next year? Anti-oxidants. This looks terrible. You know, just drink it. I just know Anders did it because of the drama in the kitchen that night. I just can’t believe one person’s opinion can make that much of a difference. Oh, yeah. Critics have all the power. Did you hear about that famous French chef who lost his Michelin star? -No. -Killed himself. This is totally gonna screw me getting into the kitchen. The stresses of a restaurant are primarily related to, uh, your product, your employees, the timing, uh, you gotta perform every day. You’re always being thrown curve balls. And you just have to take a deep breath, let it happen, and take one thing at a time. Every tiny thing counts, there’s nothing that isn’t important… nothing. If I see, if I see that a customer walked in and has been waiting at the door for more than five seconds that’s, that’s pressure. It’s very stressful. If you can’t deal with the stress then, uh, think twice about being a chef. -Hey, Claudio. -[Claudio] Hey, Anna. This is my friend, Vince. How’re you doin’? -Hey. -So, what do you have here? I have an Indian street food specialty. -[inaudible] -[Anna] Hmmm. You know, I took your advice? I put more cilantro in the recipe. Try some. -[chuckles] Thanks. [Claudio chuckles] So, uh, this is your business? -Yeah. -[Anna] Hmmm. Hmmm. Claudio, it’s so good. You know, I have some other ideas, maybe we could… -get together sometime? -[chuckles] Yeah. Uh, Claudio and I used to work together. He’s a really good cook. [Claudio and Anna chuckle] Yea, we’ll go, we’ll get together soon. -[Claudio] Okay. -Cool. Thank you, this is delicious. Thank you. You hungry? [chuckles] I’m Italian. Will you come on, uh, try this? Ah, it smells so good! [chuckling] It’s really good. [Vince mumbles] Thanks. [Cecelia] What’s this? [Vince] Oh, it’s, uh, Nonna’s cookbook. [Cecelia] Really? [Vince] I brought it from home. [Cecelia] Wow! I could live on risotto, actually. [chuckles] Okay, maybe not risotto, maybe some cheese and olives. Bread. Wine. Almonds too. I like almonds. Well, yeah. [chuckles] [Vince] I thought I’d suggest it for his next menu. That’s a good idea. Well, it’s ready. He probably got busy at the restaurant. -It’s all right. -[Cecelia] Ah, we’ll see. [Vince] No bother. I’m sure whatever it is, it’s super important. It better be. So, uh… I told him he should train you. [Vince chuckles] Oh, yeah? I don’t think, uh, he’s not gonna let me in the kitchen. Oh, I wouldn’t be so sure. He usually takes my suggestions. [stammering] I’m sure, but, uh, well, uh… I know when he and my mom got divorced, it, uh, it really wasn’t a good time for us, you know? I, uh, I said some things… [Cecelia] Hmmm. Well, I was angry. I think… said to tell him that I never wanted to see him again. I also told him that being a chef sucked. And, uh… that I never wanted to be a chef like him. I’m sure he doesn’t even remember. I don’t know. Hmm. Hmm, it’s good. [Vince] You didn’t heat it up. [Sal] Jesus! You… [chuckles] scared the hell out of me! [chuckles] Sorry. -I didn’t mean too… -[laughing] You don’t sneak up on somebody like that, -what’re you, crazy? -I didn’t mean to. [chuckles] Oh my God! Here, sit down. Oh, no, I’m fine. Hey, I’m sorry I couldn’t make it tonight, you know? -Got busy. -No, it’s all right. Got some investors come… Oh my God! I haven’t seen this in years, where’d you get this? Uh, mom found it. You mean your mom had it all this time? Yeah, I guess so. How is she, by the way? She’s good. Oh, look at this. Look at this. I remember this day. Yeah, me too. Remember how bossy Nonna used to be in the kitchen? [chuckles] Yeah. She could cook circles around me. She taught me a few things. Hmmm. [Vince] Yeah. [Sal] Hmmm. Look, I’m beat. I’ll finish this tomorrow, okay? Yeah, yeah, sure. Uh, I’ll put it in the fridge for you. Oh, thanks. Hey, you’re staying over, right? -Uh, yeah. -Got everything you need? Yeah, I’m good to go. Um, that was good, Vince. Even cold. -Good night. -Good night. [Cecelia] Tonight was important to him, he made this whole dinner. Business came first. HE wants you to train him. [Sal sighs] I wanted to train him, but he went back east to his mother. I haven’t seen him in how long and now suddenly he wants to be a chef? He’s trying to impress you. This is a tough business, Cee, you gotta really want it. Oh, is that right? Oh, come on, you know what I mean. Stop it! What are you doing? What’s it look like I’m doing? You know, you put me in a tough spot tonight. Go shower! You stink. In more ways than one. [sighs heavily] [TV chef] Stir this up a little bit. [TV chef] Excellent. With peeled tomato puree. Hmmm. Good. Stir that up. So now what’s he doing? I don’t know. He’s used way too much sage. He’s using recipe measurements instead of tasting. Yeah, Nonna always said to taste, right? It’s all about tasting. Gonna ruin it. Sage does not belong in a tomato-based sauce. [TV chef] There you go. Terrific. Bay leaves would be good. Yeah! They would. [TV chef] That’s terrific. Oh, he just picked up the bay leaf. -Feel it! -Good call. Ah, it’s smelling great. That’s unbelievable. Hmmm, hmmm, hmmm. [chuckles] Let me get outta here. Okay. Hey, Vince, uh… why don’t you come in early tonight? Help me prep? -All right. -All right. [chuckles] All right. All right. [chuckles] Wow, you sir, know how to make a sauce. [Sal] Okay, so we’ll start with prep. One of the most important parts of cooking. And you’re gonna have to know it like the back of your hand. [Vincent] Hmm-mmm. Open up that cooler door. In there are your sauces and your dressings. Now, you shadow Jorge, he will teach you everything you need to know. -Okay? -[Vince] Gotcha. -[Sal] Thanks Jorge. [Jorge speaking Spanish] Um, excuse me? Do you have your own knives? -Oh, no. -Sal? He doesn’t have his own knives. All right, well then give him one of yours. [Jorge speaking Spanish] It’s only temporary, Jorge. -[Jorge in Spanish] -[Vince] Okay. [Jorge speaking Spanish] No fingers through it And just go down. Okay, so meatball or sausage sandwiches? How about what you made for me the other night? [smirks] Don’t think it’ll be that easy to rig a real oven. -[Anna] Oh. -Dud, meatball sandwiches. -Definitely. -Okay, meatball… Or what about something vegetarian? [Vince] Vegetarian. Well, if I, I could do calzones? Yeah, if I do calzones then I can do a, a meatball and vegetarian. [John] Oh, brother. You are so under her spell. What no? It’s just a good idea. No, I like it. Think this is what I should do for the underground food market. Yeah. [Vince] [sighs] You think? [Anna] Hmm-mmm. -Don’t think, drink. -Oh, geez. Cheers. "The new restaurant buzz these days is about the October release of the restaurant guide for San Francisco." You know, that’s the list we wanna get on. Screw the top 100. Well, yeah. "Reviewers are usually European, specifically French." They dine alone and they leave their cards on the table "at the end of their meal." [chuckles] "Speculation about who might get the coveted star are some of the past restaurants [inaudible] [inaudible]" All foo-foo French. You know, I tell you, you get one star in France and suddenly you’re considered a very good restaurant. Well, I’ve got news for them, we’re getting in that guide. [Cecelia] Uh-huh. Just don’t go chasing every European diner thinking that they’re the food critic. Moi? [both chuckle] Okay. Excuse me, John. No, no, Vince, thinner. John give me my knife. Here. Like this. -Thin. See? Thin. -[Vince] Mmm-hmmm. [Sal] Thinner! [Vince] Oh, even thinner than that? [Sal] There we go. Thin. Thin! You got it? [Vince cries out] -[Vince grunts] -Oh, boy, here we go. Come on, let me see. – [Vince] Hmmm. -[Sal] Oh, boy. All right, all right, let me see. [Vince] Uh-huh. At least now you know where your knife is. [Vince] Hmm-hmmm. [Anna] Oh, it’s a gusher! Yeah, it’s really bad. Should I got to the hospital? [chuckles] No, it’s a clean cut. Just need to stop the bleeding, keep your hand above your head. -Okay? -[Vince] Hmm-hmm. Uh, you wanna take slice and dice to the office and give him some first aid? And hey you two, no funny business. I wonder… How long it will be before they realize we’re gone? It’s no secret. John already told everybody. What? -[Anna] Okay? -What do you think? -Is it bad? -I think you’ll live. Oh, thank you. No, I have to get back to my tables. Well, what about me? Can I get some service? [chuckles] Very funny. Another scar to add to the list. -[Sal] Hmm. -[Vince] So, yeah. -Cutting tomatoes for mom. -[Sal] Oh, yeah! Uh, John, Jorge? [Sal chuckles] And, uh, this beauty… I got on a pizza oven. I remember that. It’s nonna’s oven. -Yeah. Right. -Yeah. [laughing] All right, let’s go. Back to work. [blows out heavy breath] I first learn how to cook from my mom and my grandma. Why I was always hanging around with my mom in the kitchen try to nibble and, uh, eat off of something that was prepared. I did cook with my grandparents. Um, all four of them cooked, my parents both cook, uh, I’m from a big food family. My great grandmother, she had this braise with orange and cinnamon and tomato in it, and I still to this day, at least a couple times a year, put a braise on the dish and call it Nana Valerie’s braised so-and-so. [Vince] Almost done. Hold on, they’re too big. Watch. [Vince] Why the fancy, top chef? Welcome to the world of California cuisine. You should put some of Nonna’s recipes on the menu. Grandma’s cooking? [Vince] Yeah, you know, something traditional or old school, pasta fagioli, pizza, squash blossoms. Grandma’s cooking’s not gonna get me on the Michelin list. She’ll get you on the list. You know what? I think I know what’s best for my restaurant. Chef? Chef? I just seated the first table, they’re asking for you, okay? Okay, you got it. Here, start over. I’ve got a European dining solo at table five, taking notes. I’m gonna put her appetizer in right now. Carpaccio. A woman is out there. I know she’s a critic, boss, she, uh, looks like a European… Okay, okay everybody calm down. Everybody calm down, okay. okay. [sighs] Make sure you time her stuff right. And make sure I know what she’s ordering. [Anna] Okay. What’s up? We think it might be the critic. Oh, okay, well, you might wanna be a little bit more lowkey. Did you take a pill? [pills rattling] [inaudible] She’s not a food critic, she’s a blogger. Ah, she’s a blogger! [speaking in Spanish] She’s just a food blogger! She thought that tiramisu was an ice-cream, a kind of ice-cream. Something I’ve learned from cooking is patience, uh, from braising something to, um, training a line cook to, to, to get the right product out. I’ve, I’ve learned, um, that it’s okay to obsess. Uh, sacrifice and passion will take you a long way. One of my first chef’s used to say, he would just walk in, Spanish guy, and say, um, "Life is cooking." And, uh, I would be like what? It’s so random, why is he saying stuff like that? And, um, and I totally get that. I mean, my, my life is about cooking. Vince? What did I say? No cell phones in the kitchen. Focus! -Yeah. I’m sorry, I just got some good news, my application for the underground food market just got approved. You should see this place, it’s really inspiring. What’s that, the newest trend? I don’t know. [chuckles] You should think about doing a cart. Oh, yeah right. I’m gonna do a cart. I’ve got enough to do just running this place. What are you gonna get me, a little organ grinders monkey, and we’ll sell clams on a half shelf? Please. Now pay attention, all right? [Vine] Hmm-mmm. Need you to scale and debone these. [Vince] Hmm-mmm. We have seabass saltimbocca -on the menu tonight. Okay? -Okay. Yeah. You make sure you use the back of the knife when you’re doing the scaling. -[Vince] Hmm-mmm. -Okay? And you take your time. Now… the bones are sometimes hard to find. I’m gonna make some cuts and I want you to watch ’cause you’re gonna have to do this. -Okay? -Yeah, I’m watching. Okay, so first cut. [Sal] You watching? Yeah, I can see from here. The second cat, third cut, -Okay? -[Vince] Hmm-hmmm. Separate it. -You got it? -I got it. Because scales and bones will ruin a dish. Okay. All right, now we flip it over and we get the other piece. And what do we do? Use the back of the knife. -The back of the knife. -Slowly. Slowly, and we… You making fun of me? [chuckles] No, I’m not making fun of you. I’m listening. -[Sal] Okay? -Okay. You rinse it off every time? Every single time, all right. What, am I gonna put the scales back on? -Now watch. -[Vince] I’m watching. Don’t be a wise guy, okay? Because the last time you cut your finger. I don’t need you to bleed all over my fish. -First cut. -First cut. [Sal] Second cut. Third cut. Rinse the knife. Rinse the knife. Voila! Because scales and bones will do what? They’ll ruin the dish. Exactly, they ruin the dish. Seabass. Vince? Vince, come over here. -Yeah? -Look at this. Scales. Bones. And more scales. -This one’s good. -You know what? Scales, I told you. Scales ruin the dish. They all have to be great! All right, all right, calm down. I’ll do it over. No, no, there isn’t time. I’ll do it myself, okay? Your work just isn’t good enough. Such a control freak. There’s hardly any scales… Hey, watch it! Don’t bark at me like you do the rest of the kitchen. I’m not barking at you, I’m telling you okay? You’re not getting any preferential treatment around here. Yeah, well, I don’t expect you to, you only care about your food and your restaurant. It’s a new restaurant! It’s always the restaurant. It’s always been the restaurant! Goddammit, Vince! It’s a brand new restaurant. Whatever! You don’t even care if I can cook. You didn’t even notice we were gone. Okay, you know what, Vince? I don’t have time for this. So leave the kitchen. Are you kidding me? You heard me, I said leave the kitchen! Fuck you! [smacking sound] I don’t need you, or your big shot restaurant, [yelling] you selfish prick! [Sal] You know what? Grow up! I have! You’re never around to notice! [Cecelia] Vincent! Why the hell did you just hit him? ‘Cause he’s being disruptive to my kitchen. So you hit him? Well, maybe it’ll knock some sense into him. What the hell is wrong with you? What? He couldn’t do a simple task like scale the seabass. He didn’t take it seriously! You need to go apologize to him, make sure you didn’t hurt him, -for Christ sake! -Oh, please, you’re overreacting. I’m overreacting? Yeah, and do me a favor, mind your own business! Boy, am I disappointed in you. Hi, there. Two for dinner? [banging sounds from kitchen] We’ll be right with you. [banging continues] [chuckles uncomfortably] You know what, excuse me. [Sal yelling] [Sal grunting] [Cecelia] Stop! Now! Stop! [Anna] Order in! Order in. There’s an order. You need to get downstairs… Go! Downstairs. Do not come up until I come and get you. Go! Okay. [in Spanish] Vamos, por favor. Let’s keep going. Thank you. [in Spanish] Gracias. Looks very good. Hey! You need to calm down! The shift is winding down, the kitchen is fine, and you, my dear, need to get a hold of yourself. Where are your pills? Do you have your pills? Did you take one? Did you take one? Whoa! You stay in this room, do not come up until I come and get you. Do you understand me. You are done for the night. [keys jangling on floor] Anna: r u alright? Sal’s freaking out. Vince: I don’t care. I should just go back east. Sal? Sal? It’s a Cab. Thanks, Anna. [Sal] Good morning. You want some café olé? I’m not talking to you. He won’t answer my calls. None of my business. I didn’t mean that. Oh, I think you did mean it, Sal. I just lost my temper, is all. Hmm, so what’s next? I disappoint you and you smack me? -No! Never. -Damn right, I would kick your ass. I never hit him before. You know, Sal, this isn’t just about you. This isn’t just about your restaurant and your food, it’s about other people! I mean, you completely ignoring your son and you’re being an asshole to me. By the way, by the way, just because he’s your son doesn’t mean it isn’t my business. Yeah, I know. [quietly] I’m sorry. Stop trying to control everything, [Anna] See? You can go to cooking school here. -[Vince] I don’t know. -Why not? I don’t know. I don’t think school’s for me. [cell phone ringing] -Let’s go. [Sal sighs] Vine won’t return my calls. Yeah, I know. That wasn’t me. That’s not who I am. You know he’s thinking about going to culinary school? -What? Culinary school? -[Anna] Back east. Oh my God! They’ll ruin his natural talent. [Sal sighs] [Anna coughing] It’s strong. [chuckling] You all right? Cecelia thinks he’s having a mid-life crisis. -Menopause. -[Anna chuckles] [cell phone ringing] Fuck. What is this? [Vince sighs] -You gonna answer it? -Nope. You’re gonna have to talk to him eventually. I have better things to do. Like teach you how to roll some dough. Here we go. All right, grab that. [Anna] Are you really gonna go back east? I think I am, yeah. Yeah. -[inaudible] -[customer] One please. -Hey, thanks. -Thank you. -[Sal] Hey. -[Anna] Hey, Sal. [Vince] Shouldn’t you be at the kitchen? This is more important. What, what’re you sellin’? Uh, Nonna’s calzones and fried dough. Meatball and vegetarian. They’re selling like crazy. Yeah, I can see that. [Vince sighs] What do you want? Um, how about a meatball calzone? Look, I just want you to know I’m sorry. I, I wasn’t right. I didn’t… I didn’t mean to, to hit you. You said some stuff and it hurt me and I just… All right, look, I know that sounds like an excuse and… [stammering] I just lost control, okay? And, uh… I, I, I lost control, [stammering] and I’m sorry. [female customer] Hi. I just lost control. I… -I’m, I’m kinda busy. -Right. [female customer] I’ll take a vegetarian calzone. I’m sorry. Um, [clears throat] look, if, if you’re not busy later, w-why don’t you come by the restaurant, we can talk? [Vince] I gotta pack. [Sal] What do I owe ya? It’s fine. -[female customer] Thanks. -Okay. [Cecelia] Sal! I have some good news and some bad news. What is it? I think the Michelin man is here. That… What’s the good news? I think the Michelin man is here. [Sal] So, what did he order? Said he wants you to make him something special. What do you mean? Not on the menu? What are we gonna make? How about… Something traditional? [Anna] Vegetarian? Gnocchi with truffle oil. And… quack-quack. You guys piss me off. [Sal chuckles] Two of the chef’s specialties. Truffle Gnocchi with glazed scallops, and Italian roasted duck over risotto cake, one of my personal favorites. Looks good. Bon appetite. -How was everything? -Great. -Loved the Gnocchi. -Oh, good! Well, here’s the chef, Sal Sartini. Everything was excellent. [Sal] Oh, good, I’m so glad to hear it. [Cecelia] We hope you’ll come back and join us. Oh, sure. I live right round the corner. Good night. Good night! -Guess that wasn’t a critic. -No. I don’t think so. Great. Okay. [sighs] -Hey. -Vincent. How are you doing? You okay? Yeah, I’m all right. I, uh, don’t really know what I’m doin’ here. Oh, we were hoping you’d stop by. How’d the food cart go? It went great. It went really well. -Well, that’s good. -Yeah. I’m gonna go get your dad. -I’ll be right back. -All right. -[Anna] Hey. Cerveza? -Hey. Si. -[Sal] Hey, Vincent. -Hey. Have a seat. [both men sighing] So, uh… I’m glad you stopped by. How’d it go at the food market today? [sighs] Uh, Almost sold out. Uh, just had a little bit of pizza dough left over. The calzones were good. Your meatballs… perfect. Thank you. You know… I did notice when you were gone. It was… like a big hole. I remember for a long time after that… Nothing seemed to taste good. Nothing. Even Nonna’s recipes. Even some of my favorites seemed to have no taste at all. The bruschetta. Nonna’s fagioli. I mean, I missed you so much, it hurt. And I know you, you wanted my attention and I’ve been so busy with this new place… You’ve been busy with every place. I… food always came first. [Sal sighs] Even the fagioli? [Sal] Hmm. [chuckles] Yeah. [chuckling] I started freaking out. I thought I lost my… Sense of taste. [laughing] [both laughing] I know I hurt you very much… and I’m very sorry. You always had my attention. Since the day you were born. Do you wanna be cooking? Then you just need to be cooking, where ever it is. Just be true to yourself. Okay? I love you, Vince. [crying] [chuckles] [Sal and Anna chuckling] [Anna] Thank you. Thank you, yeah. I appreciate it. [Vince] There you go. [Anna] Get this animal out of my face! Ooh, this looks good. This looks good. Hey, Vince? Um… -Here you go. -[Sal] I’d like you to stay. I’ll train ya. I can get you a job in a kitchen. [smirks] What’s the chef like? Hmm. He’s a little moody. But the food’s pretty good. [Vince chuckles] [Cecelia and Sal chuckle] [all talking at once] [Sal] Running a restaurant is hard. Never goes as easy as you expected. Or dreamed. You have to work out a lot of kinks. Make a lot of mistakes. You have to work hard. Your staff becomes your family. Along with meeting my wife, Cecelia, and the birth of my son, Vincent, opening my restaurants have been some of the best days of my life. Food, wine, cooking, it connects people. And it’s all about people. It’s why I keep coming in here day after day. It’s why I love being a chef.