….and to my surprise, I actually liked it a good bit!
Now, do I think it deserves three Michelin stars? Not really. Not if we're going by the guide's heuristic that three stars are "worth a special journey." I suppose if you live in New Jersey, Connecticut, or Eastern Pennsylvania, EMP is worth a detour, but I don't think in good conscience I'd recommend it for anyone who lives farther away than that. So, for me that puts it in the 1-2 star range. Perhaps the 2 since there were really some special moments, and overall the experience was one to savor (the near military-level precision with which the servers move around the dining room is alone worth a watch). [Sidenote, but I've noticed a lot of people have talked about how easy it is to get a reservation there now, and while that's probably true, it was absolutely bussing last night. Every single table was full. Maybe just the holiday tourist season? I don't know.]
Having been there, I now think that some of the really hostile reviews of it I've read on here and elsewhere are simply by people who cannot get over the fact that it's not animal-based. Not to say that they are ill-intentioned reviewers, but people who can't imagine that squash would be more exciting to eat than lamb. If you go into this with that mindset, you're sure to be disappointed since it's really not meat and it makes no real attempt at apologizing for not being meat. Instead, it celebrates the vegetables and celebrates them in a way that lets them stand on their own without disguising what they are.
As far as flavor is concerned, it's certainly not bland. No matter what anyone can say, they can't say it's bland. For the most part, each main dish was served with some sort of broth or sauce that usually did the heavy lifting of the plate–not unlike when restaurants serve cooked whitefish, I think. The roasted allium tea was divine–I'd love to buy it in stores if I could. The bread is some of the best bread I've ever had–ever. And I thought the tonburri caviar was brilliant. Paired with fatty avocado and a refreshing cucumber-mint sauce? One of the best plates I think I've had, perhaps ever. I also really, really enjoyed the fried King Oyster Mushroom, which was texturally enjoyable.
Less exciting for me was the overreliance on lemongrass–it was in several dishes, which makes sense because lemongrass is delightful. But it was probably more than I needed. I also thought the grape mochi dessert was a flop. A bowl of grapes–just plain grapes, nothing particularly special about them–was served on ice at the same time as the mochi. The mochi itself, which was lovely, was wrapped in what I would describe basically as a grape fruit roll-up but with no sugar and covered in some weird white powdery substance. While the mochi itself was, as I said, something to savor, the odd mouthfeel and lack of flavor from the wrapper was a big swing and a big miss. I also didn't like the Sesame pretzel with chocolate. The texture was soft and fragile–not at all pretzel-y.
For drinks, I got the non-alcoholic pairing and it was fine but not great. Would not spend the money on it again–it was mostly just different grape juices. Not at all creative and diverse liked the non-alcoholic pairing at Atera. The final drink was some sort of dreadful and bitter non-alcoholic vermouth that I think everyone gets even if they don't do the pairing? Not good at all.
So, in sum–good meal, started extremely strong and maintained a pretty high consistency but was let down by disappointing desserts. I'd go again since I live within a 2-hour drive, but I don't think I'd suggest it for people who would have to travel farther than that.
by ImpressiveOpposite45
32 Comments
Also the color in these pictures is ass because the lighting in there was kind of rough. They all looked more elegant in the dimness (make of that what you will)
Dirty wodda dawg on the way home to fill you up?
Those are the unfinest fine dining pics I’ve ever seen
this is the least appetizing food i’ve ever seen
I just get sad reading these knowing how amazing EMP really was back in like 2012-2017
the lighting totally ruins it haha. i went a few years ago and the vermouth was probably a highlight of the meal. it was apricot flavored and they gave us the whole bottle to get completely trashed on. actually the wine pairing, cocktails and beverage program overall was the star. the review is otherwise spot on, I think EMP sets a new standard for service and is worth going for that reason if you’re rich. But the food is largely unrewarding, and is focused more on precision than deliciousness.
Ooooooooof. The bowl of grapes is sending me lol
Great review. I had the same menu as you a few weeks ago and was likewise blown away. I love meat, but I’d describe the dishes at EMP to be better than most meat dishes I’ve had in my life – with the exception of fine dining meat dishes in the same caliber. I go to these restaurants to appreciate, and am a bit disappointed that some choose not to go to such a unique experience solely because there is no meat, but to each their own.
Yeah those pictures are really bad. You should just use flash. Excellent and fair review though, most people are just like “hurrdurr Vegan bad”.
I agree that a lot of hostile reviews stem from “hurr durr vegan”. But, I’m someone who values vegetables as much as meat, yet I felt that EMP was a lot of missed opportunity.
Many dishes were uncreative and too simplistic. The worst part is they weren’t as good as the non-fine-dining version of those dishes. Bok choy in clear sauce is a staple of Chinese home cooking. Something tells me EMP’s version isn’t that much better.
And a bowl of plain grapes as dessert at this level is insulting.
This looks bad
I’ve been 4 times since they went vegan, and I feel like this is a fair review. 2 of the times I went my thoughts were on par with your experience, and the other 2 times it was truly phenomenal. I haven’t had this menu, and the desserts I’ve had before have been much better than what you describe.
This looks like a gag tbh
Imagine how amazing their food cost is…
This looks like a smokers home from the 70’s
Really great write up!! Thanks for sharing the journey.
Fruits and vegetables are naturally so beautiful, so many colors, and this all looks very muted. I understand the lighting is not great but I can’t imagine it’s that improved in real life, which is disappointing.
This was an excellent review. Why do people emphasise such importance on the plating? I understand this is a visual medium but you can’t really judge the taste
It’s all shades of colours you’d find in a morgue
I had one of the best meals of my life here back in 2017 or so. So sad.
Honestly, all the pictures I’ve seen from everywhere lately just keep looking worse and worse. Not only that, but portions are getting even smaller and there’s fewer of them.
Gray goopy bland boring. Why is this happening?
I’m not going back. I went there pre-vegan and when it was rated number one in the world. I was very disappointed, only memorable dish was their tomato tea. Excellent execution, tasted exactly like tomato soup but as a tea which was very surprising. All other dishes fell flat, 7-8/10. We had so much better.
I don’t know how Michelin rates the stars anymore, used to mean something. This place is worth 1* at most for pre-vegan. Not going to bother trying going back now if they can’t even execute a proper dish back then.
I had an amazing vegan tasting menu at Dirt Candy in 2019. Wish I had pictures as the presentation was stunning.
EMP has been on my list when I return to NY, but now I’m not so sure.
I went when they first reopened as vegan and found it to be one of the best dining experiences. Presentation was definitely better back then and their croissant was the best vegan bread I have ever had. The desserts were also not whatever the hell those grapes are. I was stuffed and the presentation was magnificent, but your pictures leave something to be desired.
I had the exact same menu. Also really liked it and was surprised by how much I liked it. Totally agree on their broths/sauces—they make the dishes. It was actually the only part of the bok choy dish I liked (my least favorite dish).
Absolute stand out for me: the cocktails. Some of the best I’ve ever had. Very single-ingredient forward, like Little Red Door in Paris. We went to Double Chicken Please after dinner here and loved that too but I actually preferred the EMP cocktails.
The grape dish is a joke as one of two desserts where the other one is a tiny cookie
It is rather telling of your financial situation that you regard the travel time the main consideration rather than the price of the meal; travelling two hours doesn’t seem daunting to me compared to shelling out over $500 (all in) for this.
I’m glad you really enjoyed at least parts of it, as well you should at this price point. Based on your description and pics, my stance hasn’t changed insomuch as I don’t see myself ever visiting.
I agree with your argument here. Just heard a very similar one the other day, that concluded that if EMP was in Europe, they’d be sitting on one star and not three.
David Beckham was there last night with Victoria. He really enjoyed it. I’ve been as well. I like Le Bernardin and Per Se much more.
>Not if we’re going by the guide’s heuristic that three stars are “worth a special journey.” I suppose if you live in New Jersey, Connecticut, or Eastern Pennsylvania, EMP is worth a detour, but I don’t think in good conscience I’d recommend it for anyone who lives farther away than that.
A “detour” is a detour regardless where you live. It already implies that you’re passing somewhat nearby. (By contrast, a “stop” implies that you’re already there or going to be there.)
I don’t think the “special journey” ever really contemplated a trip further than, I don’t know, New Haven or Philadelphia to New York. It just means that the restaurant is the principal purpose of the trip.
They are serving a tofu dish now! So there is finally some protein in their offering. Not convinced they have figured out how to cook a proper and complete vegan meal yet, though.
Wow, what an insightful review! I love how you balanced your thoughts, pointing out both the incredible dishes and the ones that didn’t quite hit the mark. It’s refreshing to see such a thoughtful, nuanced take on such a hyped spot. The way you describe the roasted allium tea and the tonburri caviar really makes it sound like a memorable experience!