In Mumbai, a city that thrives on reinvention, the allure of Christmas lies not just in its dazzling lights, bustling markets, and the annual decor in Damian’s shopfront, but in a quieter, more enduring tradition – the Christmas cake. Every December, amid the glitter of Instagram-perfect desserts and trendy confections, bakers turn to their family recipes, unearthing handwritten notes and cherished memories. They aren’t just baking cakes; they are baking their history, their legacy, and their love.
In Bandra, where the winter air carries the faint scent of baking spices, home bakers like Griselda Costa and Desiree Bradford keep these traditions alive. Their kitchens are intimate spaces where the spirit of Christmas thrives. For Griselda, baking is deeply entwined with childhood memories of watching her grandmother mix bowls of fruit and nuts with loving precision, a ritual she now passes on to her children. Desiree sees each cake as a tribute to her late mother, following her recipes with unwavering loyalty while adding her own flair.
Both bakers, well-loved in their Bandra community, have turned their passion into a labour of love. For their loyal customers, who place orders months in advance, Griselda and Desiree’s creations are synonymous with Christmas itself – a slice of comfort that feels like home. Through these bakers, the legacy of the Christmas cake remains intact, a delicious reminder that the most meaningful traditions are made in the warmth of a home kitchen.
A SLICE OF HISTORY
The origins of the Christmas cake are as rich and layered as the dessert itself. Centuries ago, in medieval England, plum porridge was served to break the Advent fast. Over time, this humble dish transformed into a dense, spiced fruitcake, becoming a staple of Christmas celebrations. But in the kitchens of Griselda and Desiree, the Christmas cake has a distinctly personal twist, each layer steeped in familial tradition. “For me, it is a birthday cake to mark the birth of Christ,” Griselda shares. Her family’s Christmas cake history is a tale of two worlds. “My maternal grandfather, of Portuguese descent, made Bolo Rei, a sweet bread that’s a Christmas staple in Portugal. Meanwhile, my paternal grandmother, who was Goan, baked a traditional Christmas cake with cashews and tutti frutti made from papayas grown in her garden. It was like an unspoken bake-off between my grandparents every year, and we were the happy beneficiaries!” Desiree’s connection to the Christmas cake is equally heartfelt. “My mum made it as far back as I can remember,” she says. “It’s a mix of dried fruits soaked in rum or brandy, folded into a dense batter strong enough to hold all that weight.” While her mother’s recipe formed the foundation of her baking journey, Desiree has added her own twist. “I’ve lightened it up a bit, made it rum-heavy, and now it appeals to a lot more people.”
SAVOURING EACH BITE
In both families, the art of baking has been lovingly passed down through generations, becoming a cherished tradition. “My grandfather learned his recipe from his Portuguese mother, and my grandmother learned hers from her Goan mother,” Griselda explains. “The whole process of baking is so special to us; it’s a family ritual we look forward to every year.” For Desiree, the memory of her mother’s baking process is vivid and sacred. “My mum had this whole ritual – lining tins with brown paper, tying them with white cord, patting down the batter with damp hands, and always starting with a sign of the cross.” These traditions, steeped in reverence and love, have shaped her own baking style. Griselda’s fondest memory of Christmas cake involves her father, a pastry chef. “He would return home just in time for the holidays, and his cake was my absolute favourite. When I bake, it feels like he’s right there with me.”
A YEAR-LONG CAKE COUNTDOWN
The journey to Christmas doesn’t begin in December for these bakers – it begins the moment the previous year’s festivities end. Griselda’s fruit mix, a carefully curated blend of dried fruits and nuts, is soaked in rum for an entire year. “The way you cut the nuts and fruits determines how they absorb the alcohol. That’s the kicker,” she says with a smile. Desiree, too, starts her preparation early in the year, sourcing dried fruits from Mumbai’s iconic Crawford Market. Her mix includes the bitterness of candied peel, the aroma of candied oranges, and the crunch of nuts. “It’s a flavour profile unique to every baker,” she says.
For Griselda, the official start of Christmas comes with the first Sunday of Advent. “We have a family cake-mixing ceremony. There’s wine, laughter, and the smell of spices. We put up the Christmas tree and soak the fruits together – it’s our way of marking the season.”
MORE THAN A RECIPE
Mumbai’s Christmas dessert scene has expanded far beyond the humble fruitcake. New-age bakers are whipping up biscotti, stollen, and European-style breads. Both Griselda and Desiree admire these innovations but remain loyal to their roots. “The new ideas are incredible,” Griselda admits, “but there’s something irreplaceable about the year of love and labour that goes into a traditional Christmas cake. That’s my legacy.” Desiree echoes this sentiment. “Everyone understands the time and effort it takes to make a fruitcake. A homemade cake is a treasure – perfect with a cup of coffee or a glass of wine.” For both women, Christmas cake is more than just a dessert. It’s a vessel for their history, a connection to their loved ones, and a gift to their community. Each slice carries the weight of old stories and the promise of new ones.
As Mumbai gears up for Christmas, think of the quiet kitchens where traditions are kept alive. These bakers remind us that the essence of the season isn’t found in the latest trends but in the simple joy of creating something with love – it’s in the patience, the labour, and the stories baked into every crumb. If you’re lucky enough to receive a homemade cake this season, savour it. It’s not just cake – it’s a slice of history, a labour of love, and a taste of tradition that has stood the test of time.