In the process of the popularization of Christmas in Japan, I believe certain dishes played a major role.
Roast chicken and cake have been Christmas dinner staples for decades, but there is also Tournedos Rossini, a relative newcomer that interests me.
It is a beef tenderloin steak topped with fresh foie gras and garnished with slices of black truffle. Having become popular during the asset-inflated economic bubble era of the late 1980s, this extravagant dish can be had even at family restaurants today.
It was named for the Italian composer Gioachino Rossini (1792-1868) who is perhaps best known for the opera “The Barber of Seville.” And what was the connection between him and this French concoction?
I paid a visit to Akira Mizutani, 67, the president of Societa Rossiniana Giapponese (Japan Rossini Society).
Mizutani explained that documents mentioning Tournedos Rossini started to appear after Rossini’s death.
He continued that even though it is unlikely that Rossini was the creator of this dish, it was named after him anyway because he was an epicurean and quite fond of foie gras and truffles.
In recent years, his handwritten recipes have been discovered, indicating that he had indeed come up with his originals such as “turkey stuffed with truffle and chestnut” and “Rossini-style stuffed macaroni.” The latter was said to be one of his proudest creations.
After completing “William Tell” at the age of 37, Rossini never wrote another opera. During the final years of his life in France, he hosted dinner parties and soirees, entertaining his guests with piano music and other songs.
Some had unusual titles such as “Hachis Romantique” (Romantic ground meat) and “Le Beurre: Theme et variations” (Butter: theme and variations).
An accomplished composer and gastronome, Rossini could be considered the original “two-way player.” In his honor, I think I’m going to have macaroni for dinner tonight.
—The Asahi Shimbun, Dec. 24
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Vox Populi, Vox Dei is a popular daily column that takes up a wide range of topics, including culture, arts and social trends and developments. Written by veteran Asahi Shimbun writers, the column provides useful perspectives on and insights into contemporary Japan and its culture.