Robert Austin Cho has been leaving his grill marks on New Jersey barbecue for years.
The self-taught, Korean-American chef launched Kimchi Smoke as a pop-up in 2013, and over the past decade has served his unique blend of Texas and Korean barbecue at several brick-and-mortar locations around North Jersey. He’s won several awards along the way, earning recognition for his chicken, pulled pork and his decadent “chonut” sandwich featuring brisket on a glazed doughnut.
“I like to just say this is barbecue, maybe New York City barbecue or New Jersey barbecue because we are a melting pot full of so many different flavors,” Cho told NJ Advance Media. “It is more southern, Texas-style barbecue with an emphasis on the salt, pepper and smoke more than the other stuff. But I do have my accompaniments with Korean elements like gochujang glaze or kimchi.”
Now Cho stepping outside the barbecue box at his new eatery, Austin Cho Kitchen in Hackensack.
Like the Kimchi Smoke restaurants in Westwood (which closed in 2023) and Ridgewood, Austin Cho Kitchen offers Texas barbecue specialties with Korean twists. But Cho is hoping to push the envelope even further with his new outpost. This time, the emphasis is on creative offerings like kimchi-topped wagyu hot dogs, barbecue rice bowls and other on-the-go eats. Unlike his other restaurants, this one is takeout only.
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“I get to test out different items here because I’m not confined to the Kimchi Smoke menu,” Cho said. “I plan on changing the menu up every now and then. I could do burgers, more chicken sandwiches or hot dogs, really anything here.”
Is Austin Cho Kitchen as innovative and impressive as its namesake suggests? As a lover of all things barbecue, I had to make the trip up to Bergen County to investigate.
“Thick Wagyu Dog” from Austin Cho Kitchen in Hackensack. (Christopher Burch | NJ Advance Media)Christopher Burch
How’s the food?
There are a few obvious new innovations on the menu. Hot dogs with wild toppings like the Austin Cho dog (kimchi and brisket, $14) and Koreano Cho dog (chorizo and kimchi, $9) are highlights along with the NYC XXX (pork belly) sandwich ($15) and rice bowl ($17), dishes Cho hasn’t previously offered at other locations.
The “Thick Wagyu” dog (a wagyu beef hot dog with kimchi, slaw and remoulade, $12) caught my eye and then my taste buds. The plump frank was rich and buttery and the soy sesame vinaigrette slaw and remoulade added necessary spice and sweetness to the handheld favorite.
NYC Bowl from Austin Cho Kitchen in Hackensack. (Christopher Burch | NJ Advance Media)Christopher Burch
The NYC rice bowl included pork belly, house slaw, lettuce, Fatcho barbecue sauce and remoulade on a bed of white rice. While the flavor was magnificent, I would have preferred the pork belly to be crispier.
Still, those who have come to love Cho’s previous locations can still find some classic dishes at the new spot as well.
Cho’s “Bad as Texas” brisket is smoked for 12 hours, packed with smoky flavor in every delightful bite. It’s featured on the “Austin Cho 1.0″ brisket sandwich, and even better in golden flakey empanadas. The “Ole Dirty Bird” chicken sandwich ($14) and “Cholander” fries ($17) are a few of the Kimchi Smoke staples that made the move to the new location. The “Chonut” ($16), your choice of pork belly or brisket plus barbecue sauce and kimchi, cheese and remoulade on a glazed donut is available as well on Fridays.
“Cholander Fries” from Austin Cho Kitchen in Hackensack. (Christopher Burch | NJ Advance Media)Christopher Burch
The Cholander fries are Cho’s best representation of traditional and Korean barbecue fusion, topped with pulled pork, smoked kimchi, cheddar and the eatery’s signature Fatcho sauce (bourbon chipotle barbecue). I’m a sucker for good barbecue sauce — but even if you aren’t, you’ll love this dish. The flavor and texture combination of tender brisket, melty cheese and spicy kimchi is excellent on its own. The dish is made even better by the thin, double-fried cajun french fries that hold their crunch impressively underneath it all.
Cho’s new restaurant is unassailably delicious. But is it radically different than his previous outposts? Although his goal is to enhance the menu creatively, so far it hasn’t really distinguished itself. The best things I ate were items that were previously available. Cho says new sandwiches, hot dog and bowl creations are on the way. Until then, I’ll enjoy the tasty same offerings for which Cho has become known.
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Christopher Burch can be reached at cburch@njadvancemedia.com. Follow him on Twitter: @SwishBurch. Find NJ.com on Facebook. Have a tip? Tell us at nj.com/tips/.