Stefanie earned her Master Sommelier Diploma in 2020 (only the second woman from Germany).
The Fontenay
Stefanie Hehn is a woman on a mission—one that involves more than just pouring great wine. As the Head Sommelier at The Fontenay in Hamburg, she’s one of only two female Master Sommeliers in Germany, a country better known for its beer culture than its wine scene. But Hehn is out to change that perception, one glass at a time.
“We have the best climatic and geological conditions to make great Riesling. This particular varietal needs a good acidity to mature and should never have a high alcohol content to allow optimal drinkability,” Hehn explains. Riesling might be Germany’s calling card, but
Hehn is determined to showcase the country’s growing diversity in winemaking.
“Our production of Spätburgunder is getting better and better. This is what we call Pinot Noir. There are already some great examples of local single vineyards that demonstrate their unique profile & terroir character every year. For example, there’s a complex Pinot Noir produced in the Assmannshäuser Höllenberg vineyard, which has notes of cassis and essential herbs. And also in Bürgstadt Centgrafenberg, the red wines produced have strong flavor notes of blueberries and dried autumn leaves.”
That depth and complexity in German wine have gone underappreciated for too long, but Hehn sees a shift happening. “Up until quite recently, wine lovers in this country primarily preferred international wines. However, in recent years, I am noticing the focus shifting towards Germans having an appreciation and being more adventurous to try local wines.”
Hamburg, as an open-minded port city, has played a role in this transformation. “Here in Hamburg, as an open-minded port city, we have access to a vast selection of different wines. This openness is also reflected in the wine preferences of our guests at The Fontenay. Most are happy to be guided and trust my recommendations, especially when it comes to wine pairings at our two-MICHELIN-starred restaurant, Lakeside.”
So, how does Hehn stay at the top of her game? Intense, daily training. “For me, training is an essential part of the job; we need to always make time to do our blind tastings regularly, as well as travel to different wine regions and trade shows and visit other top restaurants and wine bars that can provide inspiration and to seek out the latest trends.”
She’s also a hands-on mentor, running an advanced sommelier program at The Fontenay. “I recently sent one of my sommelier team members to the Isle of Santorini and Austria. It requires a lot of travel, as I was already in some German regions this year, including Franken and Rheingau, which are two of Germany’s smallest but most important wine-producing regions. I will go to the Wine Paris event this month and then to Portugal in two weeks.
In March, I’ll be at Germany’s annual ProWein fair in Düsseldorf, while in April, I’ll be attending Weinbörse in Mainz and visiting the Baden wine region. I’m constantly eager to meet and learn from boutique, independent winemakers and connect with the bigger key players in the wine world.”
She keeps her skills sharp at home with a personal wine cellar that boasts over 400 bottles. “I train daily and conduct blind tastings—sometimes with the help of my neighbors,” she says with a laugh.
But for Hehn, being a Master Sommelier isn’t just about technical expertise—it’s about representation and mentorship. “Above all, as a Master Sommelier, I have a great responsibility to mentor. I am also aware it is often still regarded as a rare specialism and career choice for women. I would like young women who are passionate about studying this craft to feel empowered to train as a sommelier and to continue and feel supported by the industry when they choose to have a family and children.”
That passion extends to The Fontenay, where Hehn strives to surprise and delight. “It’s increasingly becoming a city for culinary exploration and innovation, so I aim to provide guests with a unique wine pairing experience at The Fontenay that highlights world-class German flavors they won’t be familiar with.”
Stefanie Hehn is redefining what it means to be a sommelier in Germany. With a relentless dedication to her craft and an unwavering commitment to mentorship, she’s elevating the country’s wine culture—and taking Hamburg along for the ride.