These days, it seems like every other restaurant serves some kind of frites or au poivre: skate, lobster, bison, even maitake. French food is everywhere (blame Julia Child), and you’ll find at least one spot in each NYC neighborhood with burgundy banquettes and a soundtrack featuring Serge Gainsbourg. For steak tartare, gnocchi parisienne, and pike quenelles, these are the bistros, bouchons, and brasseries to visit.
